propagation
I grow plants for many reasons: to please my eye or to please my soul, to challenge the elements or to challenge my patience, for novelty or for nostalgia, but mostly for the joy in seeing them grow.
- David Hobson
- David Hobson
introduction
Propagation is the breeding of specimens of a plant or animal by natural processes from the parent stock. Simply, it is the process of increasing the numbers of any given species. Plants propagate naturally through a variety of tried-and-true methods, and gardeners have learned how to control and manipulate the process over time to create more resilient crop plants, breed new cultivars, and make existing species stronger and more able to deal with our changing climates.
methods of propagation
There are two main ways to propagate plants, sexually and asexually. Sexual propagation (reproduction) requires the floral parts of a plant. In this process, egg and sperm come together in a process that can mirror sexual reproduction in human beings by drawing from the gene pool of two parents. Unlike sexual reproduction in humans, however, plants can reproduce sexually with just one individual involved, because some flowers have both male and female sex organs and can self-reproduce. Asexual propagation uses vegetative or non-floral parts of the plant (such as stems, leaves or roots), to generate a new plant. The propagation resulting from this process is genetically identical to the parent plant and is called a clone. Typically, greater genetic diversity results from sexual reproduction. The two ways of propagating plants each have their own strengths and drawbacks. Sexual propagation can be less expensive and quicker than other methods, and is the only way to maintain genetic diversity within a species. The primary advantage of asexual propagation is that it perpetuates certain favorable characteristics of the parent plant as closely as possible. In some species, it is a quicker and much easier way to reproduce.
Sexual Propagation
Sexual reproduction is briefly touched on in the Botany II module, but will be discussed in further detail here. This type of propagation involves the union of the sperm, which is contained in pollen grains, and the egg, located in female plant parts (the ovary and ovules). Many of the structures associated with sexual reproduction in plants are valuable commodities for humans (fruits, berries, vegetables, etc.), though some can be a hassle (pollen). There are four distinct stages in the process of sexual reproduction in plants, including pollination, fertilization, hardening, and development.
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Did you know? Pollen is an airborne allergen that can affect our health.
Pollen grains are dispersed from plants with the goal of reproduction. The amount and type of pollen released varies from plant to plant, and is usually higher in the spring and summer months, though some plants will produce pollen all year long. This product can cause a variety of allergic reactions in humans, including what we know as Hay Fever. This ailment is also known as Allergic Rhinitis, and causes runny/stuffy nose, sneezing, red/itchy/watery eyes, swelling around the eyes, and itchy throat/mouth/ears. Allergic rhinitis affects as many as 60 million people every year just in the United States alone. Luckily, not all people are allergic to all pollens from all plants. If you are an individual who is pollen-sensitive, it is a great idea to keep an eye on pollen counts in your area, especially if you are planning an outdoor excursion. 'Allergy Forecasts' are available from many sources, including The Weather Channel. Pollen allergies are predicted to increase in frequency and severity over the coming decades due to climate change, which will cause shifts in precipitation patterns, the amount of frost-free days in the year, and increased carbon dioxide in the atmosphere.
Pollen grains are dispersed from plants with the goal of reproduction. The amount and type of pollen released varies from plant to plant, and is usually higher in the spring and summer months, though some plants will produce pollen all year long. This product can cause a variety of allergic reactions in humans, including what we know as Hay Fever. This ailment is also known as Allergic Rhinitis, and causes runny/stuffy nose, sneezing, red/itchy/watery eyes, swelling around the eyes, and itchy throat/mouth/ears. Allergic rhinitis affects as many as 60 million people every year just in the United States alone. Luckily, not all people are allergic to all pollens from all plants. If you are an individual who is pollen-sensitive, it is a great idea to keep an eye on pollen counts in your area, especially if you are planning an outdoor excursion. 'Allergy Forecasts' are available from many sources, including The Weather Channel. Pollen allergies are predicted to increase in frequency and severity over the coming decades due to climate change, which will cause shifts in precipitation patterns, the amount of frost-free days in the year, and increased carbon dioxide in the atmosphere.
Pollination
Flowering plants produce sexually using a process called pollination, which is the placement or transfer of pollen from the anther to the stigma of the same flower or another (in angiosperms), or pollen transfer from a male cone to a female cone (in gymnosperms). This process has been very well-studied since the time of Gregor Mendel, who carried out many experiments in the pursuit of understanding how characteristics were passed down from one plant generation to the next. This research was a game-changer in that it allowed for humans to manipulate plant genetics to encourage certain traits, like larger fruits, disease resistance, or higher yields. A majority of the world's food crops today are genetically engineered, artificially selected for desirable qualities. A great example of the effect genetic modification can have on plants and their products is exemplified by one of the more commonly grown crops in the world: Corn.
Flowering plants produce sexually using a process called pollination, which is the placement or transfer of pollen from the anther to the stigma of the same flower or another (in angiosperms), or pollen transfer from a male cone to a female cone (in gymnosperms). This process has been very well-studied since the time of Gregor Mendel, who carried out many experiments in the pursuit of understanding how characteristics were passed down from one plant generation to the next. This research was a game-changer in that it allowed for humans to manipulate plant genetics to encourage certain traits, like larger fruits, disease resistance, or higher yields. A majority of the world's food crops today are genetically engineered, artificially selected for desirable qualities. A great example of the effect genetic modification can have on plants and their products is exemplified by one of the more commonly grown crops in the world: Corn.
The history of modern-day corn crops begins about 10,000 years ago, when farmers in what is now Mexico took the first steps to domesticate the plant. The simple action of choosing which seeds (kernels) to plant began having an effect on the resulting crops that were available to grow. Kernels were chosen from plants with better taste or those that were easier to grind up. These seeds were saved for the next years' planting, and this process of seed selecting and saving (called selective breeding) continued year after year after year until cobs eventually became larger, tastier, and more productive.
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Selective breeding as a human activity changes the way we look at evolution. There is a common misconception that evolution is slow, taking hundreds or even thousands of years to produce noticeable genetic differences. While this is true for natural selection, the reality is that when humans (and their drive to improve production) get involved, the process can happen much more quickly. Humans, in a way, have become some of the world's most impactful pollinators.
Quick Question: What's the difference between selective breeding and genetic modification?
Lately, there has been much talk about Genetically Modified Organisms, or GMOs. These life forms have had their genetic material altered through the intentional actions of genetic engineers instead of through natural processes (natural selection). Selective breeding, although it has the same goal of artificially manipulating the genetic trajectory of a certain plant, still uses natural means to carry out propagation. Genetic engineering, on the other hand, has the ability to target specific genes with accuracy to create new cultivars, and even has the ability to splice genes together of individuals from different species. Humans have genetically modified crop plants for over 20 years now to produce a larger harvest or have beautiful colors, resistances to certain diseases, and tolerances to circumstances like drought and cold temperatures. However, in the past few years as the use of GMOs have been brought under the public lens, people have voiced concerns over the safety of consuming genetically modified foods. Most of the currently available GMO foods are plants, like fruits and vegetables.
Lately, there has been much talk about Genetically Modified Organisms, or GMOs. These life forms have had their genetic material altered through the intentional actions of genetic engineers instead of through natural processes (natural selection). Selective breeding, although it has the same goal of artificially manipulating the genetic trajectory of a certain plant, still uses natural means to carry out propagation. Genetic engineering, on the other hand, has the ability to target specific genes with accuracy to create new cultivars, and even has the ability to splice genes together of individuals from different species. Humans have genetically modified crop plants for over 20 years now to produce a larger harvest or have beautiful colors, resistances to certain diseases, and tolerances to circumstances like drought and cold temperatures. However, in the past few years as the use of GMOs have been brought under the public lens, people have voiced concerns over the safety of consuming genetically modified foods. Most of the currently available GMO foods are plants, like fruits and vegetables.
The main goal of plant reproduction is to create a next generation that has a good chance of survival and therefore further reproduction and survival of the species. Plants that fail are those that go extinct. A diverse genetic pool is required to deal with the ever-changing environment and stressful growing conditions. Two types of pollination are employed by plants in the drive to pass on viable genetic material: Self-Polliation and Cross-Pollination. Self-pollination leads to production of plants with less genetic diversity because genetic material from only one plant is involved. In contrast, cross-pollination (also called out-crossing) leads to more genetic diversity because it pulls material from more than one source.
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A plant's goal is to create a next generation that is the most resilient and genetically diverse, and therefore many species of plants have developed ways to avoid self-pollination, including:
Heterostyly, or a genetic variation that developed over time causing flowers on the same plant to have their pollen and ovary mature at different times, resulting in variations in stamen and style length and positioning. These flowers discourage self-pollination because once pollen has been shed, the stigma of the flower is mature and can only be pollinated by another flower. Examples of plants that exhibit heterostyly are Primrose, Ginger, Wood Sorrel, and Flax. |
Male and female flowers are produced on separate plants. Similar to the previous tactic, these plants ensure that genetic variability is achieved through physical separation of male and female flowers. In this situation, if a gardener is looking to create viable seed, a male and female plant must be planted within close proximity to ensure that pollination happens at all. |
Male and female flowers open at different times of the day. The most well-known occurrence of this type of behavior (called synchronous dichogamy) is present in Avocado trees. Avocado trees are unique in that they produce separate male and female flowers that open at different times of the day. 'A' cultivars have flowers that open as female in the morning, closing in the late morning or afternoon on the first day. The flowers then open as male in the evening of the following day. In 'B' variety cultivars, flowers open as female on the afternoon of the first day and close in the late afternoon, opening again as male the following morning. |
Because plants cannot move, their sexual interactions with each other can be difficult. Relying on pollinators and other mechanisms for a critical assist is a fundamental part of the process, and can happen in myriad ways.
Insect Pollination (Entomophily)
Insects are commonly used as vehicles for pollen. The most important insect pollinators are bees, flies, moths and butterflies. Bees collect energy-rich pollen or nectar to feed themselves and sometimes their hive. Bees and wasps visit flowers that open during daylight hours, and prefer blooms that are brightly colored, have a strong scent, and are tubular in shape. Butterflies are pollinators of garden flowers and wildflowers, and moths are similar pollinators that are active during the nighttime hours. Butterflies are attracted to open, daytime flowers that are brightly colored and fragrant. Moths are nocturnal pollinators that are attracted to fragrant nectar-producing flowers that are pale colored or white. Flies are often overlooked as pollinators, and have an attraction to plants that are brown or purple and that produce a rotting or fleshy fragrance.
Insects are commonly used as vehicles for pollen. The most important insect pollinators are bees, flies, moths and butterflies. Bees collect energy-rich pollen or nectar to feed themselves and sometimes their hive. Bees and wasps visit flowers that open during daylight hours, and prefer blooms that are brightly colored, have a strong scent, and are tubular in shape. Butterflies are pollinators of garden flowers and wildflowers, and moths are similar pollinators that are active during the nighttime hours. Butterflies are attracted to open, daytime flowers that are brightly colored and fragrant. Moths are nocturnal pollinators that are attracted to fragrant nectar-producing flowers that are pale colored or white. Flies are often overlooked as pollinators, and have an attraction to plants that are brown or purple and that produce a rotting or fleshy fragrance.
Animal Pollination (Zoophily) Bats and birds are the two main animal pollinators. Birds (especially small ones) are great pollinators for plants like wildflowers and orchids. They tend to choose sturdy plants that have pendulous racemes of colorful flowers open during the daytime. Bats are nocturnal flower feeders active in tropics and deserts worldwide. Flowers they frequent are usually large, white or pale-colored, and fragrant. |
Wind Pollination (Anemophily) Many angiosperms and species of conifer are pollinated by wind. Flowers of wind-pollinated species are frequently insignificant and white or green. These flowers are scentless, don't produce nectar, and have very small petals. Copious amounts of pollen are produced by these tiny flowers. When wind agitates the plant, the pollen is released into the air and travels (hopefully) to land on another plant. These flowers emerge before leaves in springtime, so that foliage does not get in the way of pollen transfer. |
Water Pollination (Hydrophily) This form of pollination is a rarely seen one, and is a process only present in aquatic plants. Pollen, after release, lands and floats on the surface of bodies of water until it reaches a receptive flower. Plants such as Australian Sea Grass and pond weed species are pollinated via waterways. |
Deceptive Pollination
Flowers will often attract pollinators with the promise of a nectar snack. This availability is indicated to the pollinator though fragrance and color. Some flowers, however, produce the fragrance and the color without providing any reward. This technique is called food deception, and is used by plants like Orchids to attract insects. A second form of deceptive pollination, sexual deception, occurs when plants emit a fragrance similar to that of a pheromone. Insects are attracted to the scent, get covered in pollen, and move on, hopefully to the next flower of the same species. Plant parts can also mimic insects themselves, drawing in would-be suitors to an empty gathering place where they pick up pollen to carry on.
Flowers will often attract pollinators with the promise of a nectar snack. This availability is indicated to the pollinator though fragrance and color. Some flowers, however, produce the fragrance and the color without providing any reward. This technique is called food deception, and is used by plants like Orchids to attract insects. A second form of deceptive pollination, sexual deception, occurs when plants emit a fragrance similar to that of a pheromone. Insects are attracted to the scent, get covered in pollen, and move on, hopefully to the next flower of the same species. Plant parts can also mimic insects themselves, drawing in would-be suitors to an empty gathering place where they pick up pollen to carry on.
Chiloglottis trapeziformis is an Orchid that uses sexual deception as a pollination technique, mimicking the smell of insect pheromones.
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Australian Hammer Orchids use visual hijinks, mimicking the form of a female wasp to attract male suitors that transfer pollen from one plant to another while looking for a mate.
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After pollen has reached a receptive stigma, a pollen tube then grows downward into the ovule, where the male gametes in the pollen combine with the female gametes. This process is called fertilization, and can take varying amounts of time depending on the species being grown. In most angiosperms, tube elongation is rapid, and occurs in a few days or even a few hours. In other plants, it can take several weeks to months. In some genera like Oaks (Quercus) and Pinus, it can take over a year. Development of the fertilized seed is normally accompanied by the development of fruits, which can be hard or soft in the case of Angiosperms. In gymnosperm plants, this development all takes place within female cones, which house and protect seeds for the next generation. Seeds are considered the final products of sexual reproduction; after seeds are formed, it is up to them (and their surrounding environment) for further growth and development. Seeds and their physical makeup as well as germination information is included in the next module. To jump there now, click the button below.
Propagation of Ferns by Spores
It is worth noting at this time that there is a group of garden plants that are propagated a bit differently than others: Ferns. Although propagation of ferns can most easily be done by cuttings and division, they are typically propagated in large numbers via spores. Ferns begin to produce spores when they are three to four years old, though this varies somewhat depending on the species. Spores are similar to pollen in some ways, but have the ability to generate a new plant on their own, and are produced on the undersides of fern fronds in small capsules called sporangia. When ripe, these plant parts shed thousands of spores that catch a ride on passing breezes. Once they land in a spot that meets requirements for growth, they will form a heart-shaped structure called a prothallus, which in time turns into a young fern. The process of propagating ferns by spores is as follows:
It is worth noting at this time that there is a group of garden plants that are propagated a bit differently than others: Ferns. Although propagation of ferns can most easily be done by cuttings and division, they are typically propagated in large numbers via spores. Ferns begin to produce spores when they are three to four years old, though this varies somewhat depending on the species. Spores are similar to pollen in some ways, but have the ability to generate a new plant on their own, and are produced on the undersides of fern fronds in small capsules called sporangia. When ripe, these plant parts shed thousands of spores that catch a ride on passing breezes. Once they land in a spot that meets requirements for growth, they will form a heart-shaped structure called a prothallus, which in time turns into a young fern. The process of propagating ferns by spores is as follows:
- Periodically examine the underside of fern fronds carefully and note when they begin to turn brownish. This indicates that they will burst open soon, sending their spores on a windy journey to their new home. Harvest the spores when they are fully brown, which typically happens toward the end of summertime. This varies somewhat depending on the type of fern, so make sure to investigate when this will happen for your plant. When spores are ready, cut the frond off of the plant and wrap it in smooth, white paper (printer paper works well).
- After a few days, unwrap the frond, taking care not to spill any of the very fine brown dust, which is comprised of millions of spores. Put the spores in a container where they will stay put. It is best to work with fern spores in an enclosed environment to avoid them being blown away by a light breeze.
- Set the oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Place a solid brick into the oven, and bake for 30 minutes.
- Remove the brick and let cool, then place in a pan and add water to cover. When the brick is wet throughout, sprinkle a thin layer of a 50/50 mix of moist soil and peat onto the top of the brick. Moisten by dripping water over the top or spraying with a spray bottle. Sprinkle a second layer of the 50/50 mix and moisten again.
- Sprinkle spores on top of the growing medium. Do not work them into the soil. Cover the tray with plastic, being careful not to touch or disturb the spores, and then place it in a warm place that receives indirect light.
- Maintain a good level of moisture within the growing environment by using a spray bottle to mist the inside of the bag periodically when it looks to be drying out. It may take up to a month or more for spores to germinate. A prothallus will develop first from each spore, forming a light green mat of foliage. Mist this mat lightly once a week to maintain high surface moisture. Sperm must be able to swim to the female parts of these structures.
- After about three weeks, fertilization should be complete. The green mat can be carefully pulled apart with tweezers in 1/4-inch squares.
- Place each square spaced 1/2 inch apart in a flat filled with a layered growing medium that includes 2 inches of sand, a 1/4-inch layer of charcoal, and around 2 inches of soil or peat mix on top.
- Cover with plastic again and keep moist. When fronds begin to appear and become crowded, it is time to transplant into small pots. Gradually reduce environmental humidity until they can survive in the open air. Light exposure can also be gradually increased at this time.
asexual propagation
Asexual plant propagation refers to methods of plant propagation that doesn't use seeds to create new plants; offspring are genetically identical to parents. Asexual propagation involves taking a part of a parent plant and causing it to regenerate itself into an entirely new individual. Asexual propagation involves the vegetative parts of a plant: stems, roots, or leaves. This type of propagation can be easier and faster in some species, and is sometimes the only way a cultivar can be duplicated (for example, if it is a sterile hybrid). Asexual propagation also has the added benefit of bypassing the juvenile characteristics in some species, leading to earlier fruiting and flowering. Methods of asexual propagation include cuttings, layering, division, separation, grafting, budding, and micropropagation.
Propagation via Cuttings
Many types of plants, both woody and herbaceous, are frequently propagated by cuttings. A cutting, also called a propagule, is a vegetative plant part which is severed from the parent plant in order to regenerate itself, thereby forming a whole new plant. New plants, called clones, can be generated from root, stem, or leaf cuttings. Cutting propagation is the best option for beginners because it is relatively quick, inexpensive, and easily completed. General concepts of taking cuttings for propagation include:
Use Clean, Sharp Tools The tools used to physically slice or cut plant parts should always be clean. Wiping tools down with diluted household bleach (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) or with 70% rubbing alcohol is a great way to keep them free of diseases that can transfer from plant to plant and even infect the cutting itself. Blades should be sharpened frequently. |
Know your Plant The species of plant you are dealing with will dictate when, how, and where plant material should be taken from. Become familiar with the general growth habit of your plants, including whether they are herbaceous or woody, when they flower, and when they push out the most growth during the year. |
Once a cutting is created, it needs to generate roots in order to be able to absorb water and nutrients and continue on growing. Roots that form from a stem or leaf are called adventitious roots, and form in two different ways. Depending on the biology of the species being dealt with and where a cutting is taken from on a plant, cuttings can either have preformed root initials or they must make new roots after being severed. In the case of preformed root initials, rooting starter cells that are normally dormant are triggered when a nearby cut is made, and when the cutting is placed in the right conditions and growing medium, roots will develop and emerge. This adaptation in nature allows plants to form roots quickly where any of their parts touch soil. Plants with preformed root initials include Coleus, Sweet Potato, Willow, Hydrangea, and Tomatoes. These species root quickly without much assistance from the gardener.
Not all species have these preformed root initials, and to propagate a cutting, gardeners must induce new roots to grow through wounding. Examples of plants in this group include Grape, Honeysuckle, Clematis, Rose, and Fig. In these plants, when stems are wounded, tissue will begin to grow and heal over the cut to protect the stem from entry of unwanted bacteria and fungi. The plant will then produce new roots from existing cells that are reassigned from their normal locations next to a stem's vascular tissue. Auxin is needed to trigger this cell reassignment. Auxins were covered in the Botany II module. As a refresher, Auxin is the hormone that plays a critical role in cell elongation, and helps to make cell walls more pliable so that they can increase in size more easily. At wound sites, Auxin signals to plants to begin growing a new root.
Auxin is synthesized in new plant tissues (like young leaves and shoots) and is then transported down to roots, where it helps to initiate more root growth under the soil. However, Auxin can only travel in one direction: downwards. When a stem is cut, auxin will accumulate at the end of the cutting that was originally closest to the roots, aiding in the development of roots at that location. This is why sticking the correct end of a cutting into the growing media is so important. If a cutting is inserted upside-down, the roots will still try to form on the end that was closer to the roots before it was removed from the plant, and will not likely survive.
The first step of propagation via cutting is to choose the plant you'd like to propagate. The plant should be healthy, hardy, and have a strong root system established. Numerous plant species are propagated by cuttings, which can be taken during any time of the year, though many woody plants should actually be harvested for cuttings during their dormant season in the fall. Watering the plant the day before helps it to be in the best shape possible for having cuttings harvested. Take cuttings in the morning when the plant's stems are still full of water. Having a glass of water or a plastic bag handy provides a place to stick the plant parts until they are brought inside. Cuts are made to various parts of the plant using clean, sharp pruners or garden scissors. Cuts should be made at a 45 degree angle to avoid water pooling on top of where the cut was made, which can cause fungal or disease issues to fester. Once the cutting is created, remove all flowers and flower buds from the cutting. This will allow it to push more energy towards root and shoot formation rather than fruit and seed production. Dipping the cutting in rooting hormone is not always necessary, especially with herbaceous plants. Woody plants can sometimes use a bit of help breaking through their own callous to form roots, and rooting hormone can help this process along.
Quick Question: What Exactly is Rooting Hormone?
Rooting hormone is a chemical substance that stimulates root growth in plants, especially in cuttings used for propagation. It is most commonly seen in powdered form, but is also available in liquid and gel forms. It works by imitating the hormone auxin, which encourages plant growth. Rooting hormone can be natural (made from seaweed and containing auxin), or synthetic (plant-derived, but modified to remain active for a longer period of time). These products, though they have different makeups, both aid in accelerating root initiation, rooting uniformity, increase the number of roots produced, and decrease rooting time. |
To lessen the chances of contamination of the rooting powder container, place a small amount in a tray or bowl for dipping cuttings; do not dip the cutting directly into the rooting hormone bottle. Tap the cutting lightly against the side of the bowl to release some of the extra hormone, and then insert the cutting into a sterile rooting medium. Ideal substrates for rooting cuttings include coarse sand, vermiculite, soil, water, or a mixture of peat and perlite. It is important to choose the correct rooting medium for the type of plant being propagated in order to get optimum rooting activity in the shortest amount of time. Generally, rooting medium should be sterile, low in fertility, drain well enough to provide oxygen, and retain enough moisture to prevent water stress. Moisten the medium before and after inserting cuttings, and keep it evenly moist while cuttings are rooting and forming new shoots. The cuttings should be kept in a spot in the house that receives bright, indirect light.
Stem Cuttings
When it comes to taking stem cuttings, the directions above can be followed almost exactly, though there are usually some variations depending on the species being propagated. Stem cuttings can be taken from a variety of places along stems and branches. Stem cuttings are frequently divided into four categories: herbaceous, softwood, hardwood, and semi-hardwood. These monikers refer to the age of the branch that is being cut. Herbaceous cuttings are those that have a lot of flexibility and are commonly taken from plants such as Tomatoes, Sweet Potato Vines, Chrysanthemums, Poinsettias, and Geraniums. These cuttings don't typically need to have root hormone added, and can root easily. Softwood cuttings have growth that is under two months old, and are taken from soft stem tissues on woody plants. These cuttings, after being taken, need to be planted or placed in water quickly, as they will become flaccid once removed. Examples of plants that root well as softwood cuttings include Roses, Forsythias, Blueberries, Crape Myrtles, and Weigelas. Semi-hardwood cuttings have tissue that is not too soft but also not too hard. Growth is usually around six months old (though can be as young as two months) and typically has green leaves present. Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken from plants such as Hollys, Camellias, Japanese Pittosporums, and Azaleas. Finally, hardwood cuttings are commonly taken from plants including Willows, Roses, Mulberries, Catalpas, Chinese Fringe Flowers, Chaste Trees, and Buttonbushes. These cuttings have dormant stem tissue and can definitely benefit from a dusting of rooting powder before being stuck into rooting medium for propagation. Cutting propagation begins with choosing the right type of wood to cut for the plant you're working with, and is carried out in a number of different ways.
When it comes to taking stem cuttings, the directions above can be followed almost exactly, though there are usually some variations depending on the species being propagated. Stem cuttings can be taken from a variety of places along stems and branches. Stem cuttings are frequently divided into four categories: herbaceous, softwood, hardwood, and semi-hardwood. These monikers refer to the age of the branch that is being cut. Herbaceous cuttings are those that have a lot of flexibility and are commonly taken from plants such as Tomatoes, Sweet Potato Vines, Chrysanthemums, Poinsettias, and Geraniums. These cuttings don't typically need to have root hormone added, and can root easily. Softwood cuttings have growth that is under two months old, and are taken from soft stem tissues on woody plants. These cuttings, after being taken, need to be planted or placed in water quickly, as they will become flaccid once removed. Examples of plants that root well as softwood cuttings include Roses, Forsythias, Blueberries, Crape Myrtles, and Weigelas. Semi-hardwood cuttings have tissue that is not too soft but also not too hard. Growth is usually around six months old (though can be as young as two months) and typically has green leaves present. Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken from plants such as Hollys, Camellias, Japanese Pittosporums, and Azaleas. Finally, hardwood cuttings are commonly taken from plants including Willows, Roses, Mulberries, Catalpas, Chinese Fringe Flowers, Chaste Trees, and Buttonbushes. These cuttings have dormant stem tissue and can definitely benefit from a dusting of rooting powder before being stuck into rooting medium for propagation. Cutting propagation begins with choosing the right type of wood to cut for the plant you're working with, and is carried out in a number of different ways.
Tip Cuttings These cuttings are between 2 and 6 inches in length and include a terminal bud (hence the name tip cutting). The removal cut should be made just below a node. Remove all lower leaves that would touch or be below the growing medium. Dip the cut end of the cutting in rooting hormone and insert it deeply enough into the growing media to support itself. At least one node must be below the surface of the soil. |
Medial or Section Cuttings
These cuttings are created by making two cuts, one just above a node on a stem and another cut 2 to 6 inches down the stem just above a node. Remove all lower leaves that would touch or be below the growing medium. Keep track of which end is the lower end of the cutting until it is planted. Dip the bottom end of the cutting in rooting hormone and then insert the cutting deeply enough into the growing media to support itself. At least one node must be below the surface of the soil. |
Cane Cuttings
Plants with cane-like stems will need to have cuttings taken a bit differently. Cut stems into sections containing one or two nodes each. Dust the ends with fungicide or activated charcoal and lay out to dry for several hours. Next, lay the cutting horizontally into the soil with about half of the cutting below the media surface. Eyes (nodes) should be facing upwards. Cane cuttings are usualyl potted when roots and new shoots appear on the propagule. When propagating plants like Dracaena and Croton, new shoots are often cut off after they form and re-rooted in sand. |
Leaf Cuttings
These types of propagation cuttings are used almost exclusively to clone indoor plants. Leaves of most other plants will either produce a few roots but no plant, or just simply decay. Depending on which plant is being propagated, there are a few different techniques that can be used, including:
These types of propagation cuttings are used almost exclusively to clone indoor plants. Leaves of most other plants will either produce a few roots but no plant, or just simply decay. Depending on which plant is being propagated, there are a few different techniques that can be used, including:
Whole Leaf With Petiole Cuttings In this method, leaves are detached along with up to 1.5 inches of the petiole (the small stem that joins the leaf to the main stalk, also called a leafstalk). The lower end of the petiole is inserted into water or into a growing medium. One or more plants will form at the base of the petiole. The original leaf may be severed from the new plants once they have grown their own roots and leaves, and the petiole can be reused to create more clones. |
Whole Leaf without Petiole Cutting This technique is used for plants with sessile leaves, meaning they are attached to the plant without a petiole. Cleanly remove the leaf from the stem, and insert the cutting directly into the rooting medium vertically. A new plant fill form from the axillary bud (the little nub between the leaf and the stem). The leaf can be removed when the propagule has its own roots. |
Split Vein In this technique, a leaf is detached from the parent plant. Slits are made to break up the leaf into multiple pieces, each with strong veins. Lay cuttings on top of the rooting medium with the underside of the leaf against the soil surface. New plants will form at each cut that was made. If the leaf pieces tend to curl up at the edges due to lack of moisture, they can be held in place by covering the edges with the rooting medium. |
Leaf Section Cuttings Used most commonly with Snake Plants (Dracaena) and fibrous-rooted Begonia plants, this method. Cut leaves into wedges with at least one vein, or in the case of Snake Plant, cut into 2-inch sections. Lay cut leaves flat on top of the rooting medium, or alternatively stick the pieces into the rooting medium with the lower end down. Roots will form fairly quickly, and eventually a new plant will appear at the base of the cutting. |
Root Cuttings
These cuttings are typically taken from 2 or 3 year old plants during their dormant season when they have a large carbohydrate supply stored up. Root cuttings of some species produce new shoots, which then form their own root systems, while root cuttings of other plants develop root systems before producing new shoots. As with most gardening tasks, the technique used really depends on the species being propagated.
Large-Rooted Plant Cuttings Make a straight top cut. Make a slanted cut 2 to 6 inches below the first cut. Store cutting about 3 weeks in moist sawdust, peat moss, or sand at 40 degrees Fahrenheit. A refrigerator does well at keeping around this temperature. Remove from storage after this period has passed, and insert the cutting vertically with the top approximately level with the surface of the rooting medium. This method is often used outdoors. |
Propagation via Layering
Stems still attached to their parent plants may form roots where they touch a rooting medium. Severed from the parent plant, the rooted stem becomes a new plant. This method of vegetative propagation, called layering, promotes a high success rate because it prevents the water stress and carbohydrate shortage that plague cuttings. Some plants layer themselves naturally, but sometimes plant propagators assist the process. Layering is enhanced by wounding one side of the stem or by bending it very sharply. The rooting medium should always provide aeration and a constant supply of moisture. The following propagation methods can all be considered types of layering, as the new plants form before they are detached from their parent plants:
Tip Layering
This method of layering requires an actively growing shoot tip to be used as a source of energy and plant material. The tip is bent down towards the soil surface, and where it touches, a hole 3-4 inches deep is created. The shoot tip is inserted and covered with soil. If the shoot tip will not stay buried, use landscape staples to gently guide it and keep it down. The tip, once buried, will grow downwards at first, and then bend up sharply towards the light source above the soil surface and grow upwards. Roots form at the bend, and the recurved tip becomes a whole new plant. The next early spring or late fall, the layer can be removed from the parent plant and moved elsewhere. This technique works great with many berry plants. |
Simple Layering
In this process, a stem is bent to the ground, similar to tip layering. It is commonly used to propagate plants such as Rhododendron and Honeysuckle. Choose a low-growing branch close to the exterior of the plant, and bend it towards the soil. Choose a spot a bit back from the tip of the branch to bury. About 6 to 12 inches of the tip of the stem should re-emerge from the ground. If the stem will not stay buried, use landscape staples to gently guide it and keep it down. Wound the underside of the stem that is being buried with either a clean fingernail or a knife to encourage rooting from that point, especially with plants that have woody bark. |
Compound Layering
This method is best used with plants with flexible stems, like Heart-Leaf Philodendron or Pothos. Bend a low stem down to the rooting medium, and starting with the part of the stem closest to the plant, bury sections of the stem 3-4 inches deep. After digging the hole but before burying the section, wound the underside of the stem with either a clean fingernail or a knife. This will encourage rooting at that point. If the sections will not stay buried, use landscape staples to gently guide and keep them down. |
Air Layering This popular technique is used to propagate many plants, and involves slitting a stem just below a node. The slit is wedged open with a toothpick, and then surrounded with wet, unmilled sphagnum moss. Rooting hormone is sometimes applied to the cut area before the moss is added. The substrate is held in place using plastic or foil and twine. When the roots have filled the substrate, cut the propagule off of the parent plant below the root ball. |
Propagation via Division
Division is a method of asexual plant propagation that involves separating a single plant into multiple parts, each with its own root system and at least one above-ground shoot. It is a simple means of propagation for plants that produce suckers, stolons, bulbs, tubers, or rhizomes such as Dahlias, Irises, Rhubarb plants, and Day Lilies. Some of these plants, due to their clumping nature, will need division every few years to keep them healthy. A few indications that a plant needs dividing include:
- Crowded Growth. Plants that get divided typically grow new shoots and roots at a faster pace than other plants, and this can crowd the plant's own root system as well as those of other plants. This situation leads to increased competition for nutrients, light, and water and can cause the plant to produce yellow leaves and smaller or fewer flowers. Plants grown in containers will need to be divided more frequently than those grown in the ground to avoid becoming root-bound.
- Bald Spot. Some plants over time will develop a spot at their center that begins to die out. The middle of the plant turns brown, leaves wither and fall off the plant, and it can look a bit unattractive.
- Sparse Bottom Foliage. Over time, some plants will develop a habit of producing foliage only on upper branches. This is usually due to the top canopy being too dense, and can be exacerbated by poor pruning practices. Plants in this situation can be cut back to the ground and divided to be rejuvenated.
The entire plant is typically dug up during the division process; trying to divide a plant while it is still in the ground is not recommended, as doing so can lead to errant cuts, increased damage around wounds, and does not allow for precise sections to be removed. In general, the best time to divide a plant is when it is not in bloom, so that it can devote energy solely to root and leaf growth. The best time to divide spring flowering perennial plants is in the fall (making sure to leave enough time for propagules to establish before cold temperatures set in), and the best time to divide summer and fall flowering perennials is in the springtime. Timing can vary somewhat depending on the species; make sure to research the species prior to division. The general process for division is as follows:
- Identify the plant to be divided and determine what tools will be needed. Smaller plants can be dug up with a trowel, but larger pants will need a full-size shovel. Ensure all tools, including those used for digging, are clean before starting.
- Choose a day to divide plants. Cool, cloudy days are best for division; bonus points if it will rain later in the day. If the soil is dry in the area where plants will be pulled for division, irrigate and then divide the plants the following day.
- Determine whether the plant should be cut back before it is divided. Cutting a plant back before division can help new plants establish themselves and reduce the burden on the roots. Doing all that is possible to maintain a good energy balance in propagules will give new plantings a head-start on growth. Most plants can be cut back to an inch or two;
- In the morning of division day, dig up the plant that is to be divided. To avoid damaging the root system, work from the outer edges of the drip line in. The drip line is the outermost reach of the canopy of a plant where water drips to the ground from the foliage above. This is about where the outer edges of the root ball of the plant should be, so starting to dig here and working inwards can ensure that as little damage is done to roots as possible. Once the general root zone is located and excavated, the plant can be taken out.
- Lay the plant out on its side and examine the crown as well as the root system. The root systems of plants with more fibrous roots should have as much soil left on their roots as possible. For corms, tuber roots, or rhizomes, soil can be rinsed off if doing so will assist in the process of locating where cuts will be made. Inspect the roots for damage, disease, and molds or fungi. Remove these portions. Next, examine above-ground parts and note any areas that look completely dead or diseased. Remove these parts as best you can while still keeping the rest of the plant intact.
- Decide how many plants you will make from your mother plant, and decide where to make your cuts. The number of divisions you will be able to make is dependent on the strength of the plant's root system as well as the size of each division. Older, large shrubs, for example, can be divided into three or four sections, whereas a clump of Daylilies can be divided into however many above-ground shoot sections there are that have corresponding roots. It is really the dealer's choice when it comes to most plants; the only requirements are that each section have an above-ground shoot and an underground root section. More cuts will result in numerous smaller plants, and fewer cuts will result in larger plants. The smaller plants will take longer to put on a good amount of growth, and the larger plants will be able to fill in areas of the garden more quickly.
- Make your cuts. This can be completed with a clean garden saw or Hori Hori knife, or on larger plants can be completed with the edge of a shovel. Cuts should be made to the base of the plant, working downwards towards the roots as the clump opens up. Once sections are separated, they can be replanted.
Daylilies commonly need dividing.
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Soil can be completely washed off of root systems, or can be left on during the division process.
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Shrubs like Hydrangeas don't generally need to be divided, but they can be if they get too large or overgrown.
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Roots can be separated with a garden saw or Hori Hori knife.
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Propagation via Separation
Separation is used to propagate plants that produce bulbs or corms. Separation is similar to division, though it does not require actively cutting roots to divide into sections. These types of plants naturally form offsets, which can then be taken and replanted elsewhere. This is one of the easiest methods of propagation, because it happens naturally.
Separation is used to propagate plants that produce bulbs or corms. Separation is similar to division, though it does not require actively cutting roots to divide into sections. These types of plants naturally form offsets, which can then be taken and replanted elsewhere. This is one of the easiest methods of propagation, because it happens naturally.
Separation of Bulbs
New bulbs will form alongside an originally planted bulb. Separating plants that form bulbous roots every three to five years is recommended, both to increase bloom size and to increase bulb population more quickly. Dig up clumps after leaves have withered and flowering has ended. Gently pull bulbs apart and replant them immediately so that roots can begin to develop. Small, newer bulbs may not flower or 2 to 3 years, but larger ones should bloom in the next growing season. Tulips and Narcissus are examples of bulbous-rooted plants. |
Separation of Corms
Corms will produce offsets, also called cormels, under the soil over time that can be removed and planted. After leaves have withered, the corm is dug up and set out to dry for between 2 and 3 weeks' time. The cormels are then gently popped off of their mother corm, and stored in a cool, dark, dry place until planting time in the next spring. If in a mild-weather area, cormels may survive outdoors under soil if a layer of mulch is used for insulation. |
Propagation via Grafting
Grafting is a technique where the living tissues of two separate plants are joined so as to continue their growth together. There are a few different methods of grafting, all involving placing a portion of one plant into or on a stem, root, or branch of another in such a way that a union will be formed and the partners will continue to grow together. Generally, the plant part of the equation that provides the root is called the stock or rootstock, and the added piece is called the scion. Grafting is typically used to propagate cultivars of plants that will not root well as cuttings or whose own root systems are inadequate. One or more cultivars can be added to existing fruiting plants by grafting. |
Scions consist of pieces of shoots with dormant buds that will one day produce stems and branches. The rootstock serves to provide the established root system and sometimes the lower part of the stem. There are many characteristics of rootstock plants that make it desirable to use as a base, and makes it possible to grow plants in less-than-ideal conditions in their environment. There are four conditions that must be met for a union to be successful:
- The scion and rootstock need to be compatible. The compatibility between scion and rootstock depends on how closely related their species are. Those of the same species are usually compatible in grafts referred to as homografts. Species within the same genus are grafted in heterograph unions, which are also generally compatible. Interfamilial grafts are not recommended, as they are rarely compatible.
- Scion and rootstock must both be at the proper growth stage. A good age range for scion wood is one to two years old. Generally, it should be between 1/4 and 1/2 inch in diameter and have lots of vegetative buds. The best rootstocks are two years old, and have a trunk size that is about a pencil's thickness, though this varies depending on the situation and the purpose of the graft.
- Cambial layers of the scion and rootstock must meet. The cambium is a thin layer of actively dividing cells located below the bark of plants. It initiates the formation of callouses, produces connective tissues for a growing plant, and most importantly for grafting, links up with the cambium of other plants when in close proximity. The larger and firmer the contact of cambium layers, the better. This is why many graft unions are taped up tight.
- The graft union must be kept moist until the wound has healed itself; a second reason for a tight wrap around a graft union. Moisture is lost through contact with the air, and the larger the exposed area, the more moisture is lost. For a bit after grafting, the scion will be unable to pull water from the rootstock; the pipes are not linked up yet. Keeping as much moisture as possible contained within the grafting environment is critical to a successful union.
Grafting is typically done with trees and shrubs t combine the best characteristics of the two plants, but it can really be done on almost any plant. For example, grafted heirloom tomato plants are growing in popularity, because they combine nostalgic tomato flavor with increased disease resistance and productivity. Reasons to graft plants include to create more hardy, reliable plants, to develop new varieties, and to create specimens that are lifted off the ground or dwarfed to fit in smaller gardens. Many types of plants and trees can be grafted, including fruit trees, birch, ash, spruce, and cedar. Flowering and vegetable plants like roses and tomatoes are also commonly grafted.
Cleft Grafting
This technique is typically used to change the cultivar or top growth of a shoot or young tree (in most cases a seedling), and is best done in early springtime when scion and rootstock are still dormant. Scion wood should be between 3/8 and 5/8 inches in diameter and straight, and cuttings taken should be about 3-4 inches long; bonus points if they have more than three buds. Cut the limb or small tree trunk that is to be reworked (the rootstock) perpendicular to its length. This is one of the times when a cut does not need to be made at a 45 degree angle. Make a 2-inch deep vertical cut through the center of the previous one, being careful not to tear the bark. This cut is best made with a sharp blade. Keep the cut wedged apart by using a shim or similar piece. Next, shape the cut end of each scion piece into a wedge. Prepare two scion pieces and insert them at the outer edges of the cut in the rootstock piece. Tilt the top of the scion slightly outward and the bottom slightly inward, moving it into the rootstock so the cambial layers of each piece touch. Remove the wedge propping the slit open once both scion pieces are in place. Cover all cut surfaces with grafting wax.
This technique is typically used to change the cultivar or top growth of a shoot or young tree (in most cases a seedling), and is best done in early springtime when scion and rootstock are still dormant. Scion wood should be between 3/8 and 5/8 inches in diameter and straight, and cuttings taken should be about 3-4 inches long; bonus points if they have more than three buds. Cut the limb or small tree trunk that is to be reworked (the rootstock) perpendicular to its length. This is one of the times when a cut does not need to be made at a 45 degree angle. Make a 2-inch deep vertical cut through the center of the previous one, being careful not to tear the bark. This cut is best made with a sharp blade. Keep the cut wedged apart by using a shim or similar piece. Next, shape the cut end of each scion piece into a wedge. Prepare two scion pieces and insert them at the outer edges of the cut in the rootstock piece. Tilt the top of the scion slightly outward and the bottom slightly inward, moving it into the rootstock so the cambial layers of each piece touch. Remove the wedge propping the slit open once both scion pieces are in place. Cover all cut surfaces with grafting wax.
Bark Grafting
Scion wood for these types of grafts is between 3/8 and 1/3 inch in diameter, and are collected when plants are still dormant in early springtime. Harvested scion wood can be stored wrapped in moist paper in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. The rootstock plant should be sawed off (on either the main trunk or a scaffold branch) horizontally, leaving a flat surface to work with. In springtime, when the bark is easy to separate from the wood, make a 12-inch diagonal cut on one side of the scion and a 1.5 inch diagonal cut on the other side. Leave two buds above the longer cut. Next, cut through the bark of the rootstock, making the wound a little wider than the scion, and remove the top third of the bark from this cut. Insert the scion into the slip, with the longer cut against the wood. Nail the graft in place with flat-headed wire nails. Finally, cover all wounds with grafting wax.
Scion wood for these types of grafts is between 3/8 and 1/3 inch in diameter, and are collected when plants are still dormant in early springtime. Harvested scion wood can be stored wrapped in moist paper in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. The rootstock plant should be sawed off (on either the main trunk or a scaffold branch) horizontally, leaving a flat surface to work with. In springtime, when the bark is easy to separate from the wood, make a 12-inch diagonal cut on one side of the scion and a 1.5 inch diagonal cut on the other side. Leave two buds above the longer cut. Next, cut through the bark of the rootstock, making the wound a little wider than the scion, and remove the top third of the bark from this cut. Insert the scion into the slip, with the longer cut against the wood. Nail the graft in place with flat-headed wire nails. Finally, cover all wounds with grafting wax.
Whip or Tongue Grafting
In this method, scion and rootstock are usually of the same diameter, though the scion may be somewhat smaller than the stock for a good union. Common diameter for both rootstock and scion are between 1/4 nd 1/2 inch. This technique forms a strong graft which heals quickly and provides excellent cambial contact. A 2.5-inch long sloping cut is made to the top of the rootstock, and a matching cut is made on the bottom of the scion. On the cut surface, slice downward into the stock and up into the scion piece, creating an interlocking pair. Fit the pieces together, and wax the union.
In this method, scion and rootstock are usually of the same diameter, though the scion may be somewhat smaller than the stock for a good union. Common diameter for both rootstock and scion are between 1/4 nd 1/2 inch. This technique forms a strong graft which heals quickly and provides excellent cambial contact. A 2.5-inch long sloping cut is made to the top of the rootstock, and a matching cut is made on the bottom of the scion. On the cut surface, slice downward into the stock and up into the scion piece, creating an interlocking pair. Fit the pieces together, and wax the union.
After any grafting is done, it is helpful to mark the plant part that was grafted for ease of pruning and maintenance once the scion wood has taken off. The amount of time it takes for any of the above grafts to heal is dependent on how much open wound was left after the grafting process was complete, what type of plant was grafted, and how well the cambium was lined up during the grafting process. Proper dressing and aftercare are very important factors in how long a graft will take to heal. The use of products like grafting wax can help this process, as can grafting tape and other materials. For a year or two after the graft takes place it should be closely monitored. Once growth begins to emerge from the scion wood, any binding materials (like grafting tape or strong cord) should be removed to prevent girdling. It is advantageous to use rubber binding materials, as they will bend and flex with the growth of the tree and have less danger of stunting growth. Inspect waxed grafts after 2 to 3 weeks to make sure that the wax has not cracked under environmental conditions or the force of plant growth. If necessary, re-wax the exposed areas.
After a graft is completed and healed, the rootstock is pruned back so that all branches and leaves below the graft are removed. This will send all of the rootstock's energy into healing wounds and up into the scion. This is done gradually, with the total leaf surface of the old variety being reduced as new leaves form on the scion. This ensures that the energy balance of the new plant stays as stable as possible as roostock limbs are removed. Completely removing all of the old limbs of the old variety at the time of grafting can increase the shock to the tree, causing it to push out suckers. Scions may also grow too quickly when they are not competing with the old foliage, and be more susceptible to wind damage.
Budding
Budding, also called blastogenesis, is the union of one bud and a small piece of bark from the scion with a rootstock. It is especially useful when scion material is limited. It is also faster and forms a stronger union than grafting. Because it uses such small incisions, rather than the major cuts used with traditional grafting methods, it is less stressful to both scion and rootstock. It is how most deciduous fruit and shade trees are propagated, and takes a bit of practice to complete successfully. For a budding procedure, a mature bud is inserted into a cut made in the bark of the rootstock. It is best done in late summer, between July nd September. There are a few techniques for budding:
Budding, also called blastogenesis, is the union of one bud and a small piece of bark from the scion with a rootstock. It is especially useful when scion material is limited. It is also faster and forms a stronger union than grafting. Because it uses such small incisions, rather than the major cuts used with traditional grafting methods, it is less stressful to both scion and rootstock. It is how most deciduous fruit and shade trees are propagated, and takes a bit of practice to complete successfully. For a budding procedure, a mature bud is inserted into a cut made in the bark of the rootstock. It is best done in late summer, between July nd September. There are a few techniques for budding:
Patch Budding
This technique is mostly used for plants with thick bark and is completed in springtime when they are actively growing. Start by cutting a rectangle through the bark on the rootstock. This will serve as a template for your cut around the bud in the bark of the scion. If rootstock bark is thicker than that of the scion, sand it down to meet the thinner bark, so that when the graft is wrapped up the patch will be held still. |
Chip Budding
This budding method is used when bark is not slipping. Slice down into the rootstock stem at a 45 degree angle, going down until you're about 1/4 of the way through the stem. Make a second cut an inch above the first down to the same point. Cut out a piece of the scion with a bud that is the same size and shape as the chip made in the rootstock. Fit the bud chip to the stock and wrap the union. |
T-Budding
This is a very commonly used bud grafting technique, and is also called shield budding. Make a vertical cut through the bark of the rootstock, avoiding any buds. Then, make a horizontal cut at the top of the vertical one (so that the cuts form a T) and loosen the bark by twisting the knife at the intersection. Remove a shield-shaped piece of scion that includes a bud, bark, and a thin section of wood. Push the shield under the rootstock bark slit, and then wrap the union, leaving the bud exposed. |
Caring for buds after grafting involves close monitoring. After any grafting is done, it is helpful to mark the plant part that was grafted for ease of pruning and maintenance once the scion wood has taken off. The amount of time it takes for a graft to heal is dependent on how much open wound was left after the grafting process was complete, what type of plant was grafted, and how well the cambium was lined up during the grafting process. Proper dressing and aftercare are very important factors in how long a graft will take to heal. The following spring after grafting, cut the rootstock off 3 to 4 inches above the bud. This will force the bud below to develop and sprout new growth. If it is a particularly windy time, the bud graft shoot may be tied to the rootstock stub to prevent damaging the new growth. After the shoot has made a strong union with the stock, cut the rest of the rootstock stub off close to the budded area.
Propagation Tools and Materials
Gardeners looking to propagate their plants have many choices when selecting what tools and materials they will need for propagation activities. The simplest of recycled materials can be used, or new, useful products can be purchased in stores or online. The following list is a sampling of some of the items that a beginning propagator may need to have handy:
Glass Containers
Good for saving seed, storing spores, or water propagation. |
Grafting Wax
This wax seals wounds of newly grafted trees or shrubs to protect them from infection. |
Grafting Tape
This tape is used reinforcing unions, protecting grafts, and |
Ties and Markers
These tools are helpful for marking branches for removal and tracking new growth. |
Various sizes of Pots
Handy in most gardening situations, these are good to have on hand for potting up cuttings as they form roots. |
Plastic Bags
Useful to create a greenhouse-effect over potted cuttings. |
Bricks
Great for propagating fern spores. |
Grow Lights
For providing artificial rays indoors to propagated plants. |
Conclusion
Propagation is a skill that is both difficult and fun to learn and experiment with. It is a hands-on way to become intimately familiar with the plants our in the garden, and can be a great source for free plants. Before moving on to the next module, where we'll learn about seeds in more detail, make sure to review the key terms for this module, and don't forget to do the homework assignments.