pruning
"The purpose of pruning is to improve the quality of the roses, not to hurt the bush."
- Florence Littaur
- Florence Littaur
introduction
Pruning is an essential gardening task that involves the selective removal of specific plant parts, such as branches, roots, or buds. Whether you're a novice gardener or have years of experience outdoors working with plants, understanding the basics of pruning can significantly enhance the health, appearance, and productivity of your garden. The activity of pruning applies to all plants, whether they are woody shrubs, herbaceous perennials, or vegetable garden plants.
Quick Question: What is Self-Pruning?
When plants are described as being self-pruning, this means that they are woody plants that undergo a process where they will drop twigs or branches that are no longer producing more energy than they require. This process can also occur in response to a lack of available water; plants will drop their least necessary or productive foliage to reduce the surface area from which water is lost. This natural shedding of branches is called cladoptosis, and it is how trees growing in wild landscapes manage their own health. |
The Science Behind Pruning
Although pruning may seem like a complicated, daunting task for the home gardener, it is actually a pretty simple concept once it is broken down into its most basic form. It is important to remember that while pruning can go wrong, most of the time it is an activity that encourages already resilient plant life to grow. Pruning does this by helping to maintain the overall energy balance of landscape plants. Engines that drive plant growth include the carbohydrates and nutrients mobilized from stored reserves, the current photosynthate production of the plant, and water absorption.
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The first two sources fuel the production of new plant tissue, and the third drives cell expansion and shoot (new growth) elongation. The energy balance within each plant is set by the amount of the available energy in the plant (photosynthates and carbohydrates) divided by the quantity of growing points on the plant that will use those energy resources. This concept is important to consider while carrying out pruning activities in the garden. In otherwise healthy plants, pruning in the dormant season is invigorating to the plant, while pruning in the late spring and summer results in reduced vigor. While making a few cuts here and there is generally acceptable at any time of the year, more major prunings need to be scheduled according to the plant's energy balance, which usually means pruning during dormancy.
For the most part, pruning in late wintertime will spur a lot of new growth in springtime. Take a neglected Apple tree, for example. The tree is filled with crossing and rubbing branches (opening the tree up to damage and open wounds), has weak branch angles (which are more at risk for breakage in high winds), and a crown that is too dense (causing fruit production and airflow issues). A major wintertime thinning out of the canopy will allow most of the stored reserves of the tree to remain intact, because reserves are stored in the main trunk, roots and crown during this time. It also will have the effect of drastically reducing the amount of foliage and growing points that will use these energy reserves when growth starts again in the springtime. The result of a pruning is more vigorous spring growth from the growing points that remain on the tree.
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Late spring pruning, on the other hand, has the opposite effect due to a different energy balance within the tree. The same apple tree in late springtime will have used up most of its stored energy reserves putting out new growth, flowers and fruits. Pruning at this time will drastically reduce the amount of ongoing energy processing the plant is able to do (because doing so removes light-processing foliage). This will result in much less regrowth after pruning, and if too much is taken off, it can result in flower or fruit drop as the tree compensates and redirects its remaining energy.
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Hormones and Plant Response to Pruning
The levels of hormones within plants play a critical role in their response to pruning. Plant hormones called auxins are produced in expanding shoot tips and move down the stem. The higher concentrations closest to the growing tip tend to suppress the opening of buds below, so that the most energy possible is used for putting on new growth. This tendency is called 'apical dominance' and serves to make sure that plants out-compete their neighbors for sunlight. The tallest plants typically receive the most sunlight, so evolutionarily, this is a great adaptation. However, for home gardeners who want to encourage a bushy habit (or more flower and fruit production closer to the ground), pruning off this growing tip removes the concentration of auxins, which then are free to support the outward growth of buds farther down the stem.
The levels of hormones within plants play a critical role in their response to pruning. Plant hormones called auxins are produced in expanding shoot tips and move down the stem. The higher concentrations closest to the growing tip tend to suppress the opening of buds below, so that the most energy possible is used for putting on new growth. This tendency is called 'apical dominance' and serves to make sure that plants out-compete their neighbors for sunlight. The tallest plants typically receive the most sunlight, so evolutionarily, this is a great adaptation. However, for home gardeners who want to encourage a bushy habit (or more flower and fruit production closer to the ground), pruning off this growing tip removes the concentration of auxins, which then are free to support the outward growth of buds farther down the stem.
Another group of plant hormones, called cytokinins, are produced in the young, growing roots and then move up into shoots, where they work to stimulate bud break (when buds begin to grow into stems). Auxins suppress these hormones, and removing an active apical bud will allow them to activate. Commercial growers will actually use cytokinin sprays to artificially induce more lateral branching and bushier plants that will sell better. After a year in the garden, however, most of these treated plants revert back to their natural habit, which tends to be leggier. The strength of apical dominance varies from species to species, and dictates what type of overall shape a plant will take.
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No matter when and how pruning is carried out, it always will result in mechanical harm to the plant. When injured, plants have a variety of defense mechanisms that can be immediate or delayed. Plants that have parts removed undergo a cascade of signals that are meant to activate healing compounds or the production of certain substances (like sap). Wounds can take a good amount of time to fully heal, depending on how much energy is available to the plant at the time of injury. Tissue slowly forms around the perimeter of the pruning cut, and the plant will eventually form a callous. As gardeners, our main task is to ensure that we do all we can to minimize outside threats to the plant during this healing period, including making proper sharp cuts with clean tools and pruning during times of the year when certain garden pathogens are not abundant.
How to Prune
Knowing what happens inside of a plant after pruning is an important step in understanding the basics of caring for plant life. However, simply having this information does not necessarily make pruning a breeze. When looking at a plant in the garden, it is sometimes a mystery as to whether or not the plant even needs pruning in the first place. And when you're looking at an entire overgrown garden filled with different types of plants, it can be pretty a pretty overwhelming experience. This leads many home gardeners to leave pruning to the professionals, which is not necessary (except in situations where large trees or shrubs need pruning). There are six fundamental reasons to prune:
Pruning to Maintain Plant Health and Aesthetics This goal of pruning involves removing dead, diseased, or injured plant parts. Removing these weak parts of the plant can go a long way in helping minimize potential for secondary issues or opportunistic pest populations to move in. Pruning can also help to maximize the aesthetic quality and overall vigor of a shrub, tree, or annual planting. |
Pruning to Encourage Flower and Fruit Production Pruning can maximize flowering and fruit production, if done at the correct time (and in the correct way). This type of pruning has the goal of opening up canopies of shrubs and trees to allow for more light penetration and air flow, and will also stimulate the formation of flower buds. |
Pruning to Rejuvenate Old or Overgrown Plants Plants have the uncanny ability to continue growing no matter how small of a space they have to expand. These plants will commonly become overgrown, sparse, or leggy due to certain growing conditions, and pruning can help to stimulate the formation of new, more productive growth as well as improve the health of the plant. |
Each time pruning is called for, there are a series of steps taken to evaluate and complete pruning for each plant in the garden. These steps are relatively similar for each plant in the landscape, with some variations in timing, technique, and purpose. These specialized pruning situations are discussed in more detail in the Specialized Pruning section below. General prunings for plant health can be carried out at any time, especially if the goal is to remove unhealthy plant parts. The general pruning steps are as follows:
Step 1: Evaluate
Take a look at your plant and assess its shape and health. Assess one plant at a time, even if the plant being pruned is a part of a larger hedge or privacy screening area. Do not make any cuts until you have a general idea of how you'd like the plant to look. Evaluating plants can happen multiple times in a pruning session, and from multiple angles, especially with larger shrubs and trees. Select which pruning tools will be needed for the plant, and bring them over to the planting bed so that they are easily accessible.
Take a look at your plant and assess its shape and health. Assess one plant at a time, even if the plant being pruned is a part of a larger hedge or privacy screening area. Do not make any cuts until you have a general idea of how you'd like the plant to look. Evaluating plants can happen multiple times in a pruning session, and from multiple angles, especially with larger shrubs and trees. Select which pruning tools will be needed for the plant, and bring them over to the planting bed so that they are easily accessible.
Step 2: Prune for Health
Identify any dead, damaged, or diseased branches or foliage. These will be the first to go, as they need to come off for the plant to continue growing well. These parts can be cut back to the first healthy branch intersection back towards the center of the plant. Sometimes, it will be necessary to remove a branch all the way back to a main stem to fully remove these issues. It is pretty obvious where dead plant matter extends to, such as in herbaceous plants. In this group, anything that is not green can be cut back. In woody plants (plants whose stems have bark), the hard coating on stems and branches makes it more difficult to identify where damaged or dead parts extend to. A quick way to check for live, healthy growth under bark is to make a nick with a fingernail or with the tip of a pruning tool. If the inner bark is green or white, that is a good sign that it is still alive. If it is dry, brittle, and brown, grey, or blackish, it is probably deceased. If you're still unsure, you can always simply cut back to the next branch intersection repeatedly until live wood is reached. Once this is complete, step back and re-evaluate the shrub.
Identify any dead, damaged, or diseased branches or foliage. These will be the first to go, as they need to come off for the plant to continue growing well. These parts can be cut back to the first healthy branch intersection back towards the center of the plant. Sometimes, it will be necessary to remove a branch all the way back to a main stem to fully remove these issues. It is pretty obvious where dead plant matter extends to, such as in herbaceous plants. In this group, anything that is not green can be cut back. In woody plants (plants whose stems have bark), the hard coating on stems and branches makes it more difficult to identify where damaged or dead parts extend to. A quick way to check for live, healthy growth under bark is to make a nick with a fingernail or with the tip of a pruning tool. If the inner bark is green or white, that is a good sign that it is still alive. If it is dry, brittle, and brown, grey, or blackish, it is probably deceased. If you're still unsure, you can always simply cut back to the next branch intersection repeatedly until live wood is reached. Once this is complete, step back and re-evaluate the shrub.
Step 3: Prune for Structural Integrity
Identify any crossing branches with limbs that rub against one another. Rubbing can cause wounds in which pests and disease issues can fester and multiply, and removing these hot spots is key to maintaining good plant health. Crossing branches require two stems to tango; remove the one that is least helpful to the general structure and health of the tree. If too much damage has already occurred before the problem is corrected, it may be necessary to remove both branches.
Identify any crossing branches with limbs that rub against one another. Rubbing can cause wounds in which pests and disease issues can fester and multiply, and removing these hot spots is key to maintaining good plant health. Crossing branches require two stems to tango; remove the one that is least helpful to the general structure and health of the tree. If too much damage has already occurred before the problem is corrected, it may be necessary to remove both branches.
Step 4: Remove Water Shoots and Suckers
Water sprouts, also known as epicormic shoots or water shoots, are shoots that grow from dormant buds on the trunk or branches of trees. These sprouts tend to grow straight up from the branches. They are often vigorous and upright. These cause issues because they can crowd the canopies of trees, reduce flowering and fruiting, alter a plant's structure, and make trees more susceptible to issues like wind and ice damage as well as pests and diseases. Suckers are similar, though they appear towards the base of the main trunks of plants. They are problematic because they use a lot of a plant's energy to maintain, and can take away nutrients and water from main branches, flowers, and fruits. These suckers are commonly able to put out their own roots and become their own individual plants due to their vigorous nature.
Water sprouts, also known as epicormic shoots or water shoots, are shoots that grow from dormant buds on the trunk or branches of trees. These sprouts tend to grow straight up from the branches. They are often vigorous and upright. These cause issues because they can crowd the canopies of trees, reduce flowering and fruiting, alter a plant's structure, and make trees more susceptible to issues like wind and ice damage as well as pests and diseases. Suckers are similar, though they appear towards the base of the main trunks of plants. They are problematic because they use a lot of a plant's energy to maintain, and can take away nutrients and water from main branches, flowers, and fruits. These suckers are commonly able to put out their own roots and become their own individual plants due to their vigorous nature.
Step 5: Prune for Aesthetics and Production
The final step in pruning is to prune for a desired shape or to maximize future harvests. These prunings should be completed on most plants in late winter or early spring, though the ideal timing can vary greatly depending on the plant being pruned. More about pruning for these purposes can be found lower down on this page.
The final step in pruning is to prune for a desired shape or to maximize future harvests. These prunings should be completed on most plants in late winter or early spring, though the ideal timing can vary greatly depending on the plant being pruned. More about pruning for these purposes can be found lower down on this page.
Pruning Tools
Now that you have a basic understanding of how pruning is carried out, it's time to look at the tools you'll be using. Pruning is probably one of the least understood and most daunting landscape maintenance practices that homeowners face in their outdoor spaces. Having the right tools can go a long way in making the process more straightforward, and also leads to healthier plants in the long run. There are many different tools sold online and in garden supply centers and big box stores, and they generally fall into the following categories:
Hand Pruners (Pruning Shears, Secateurs) These are the quintessential pruning superheroes, easy to use and hold, and small enough to fit in most spaces. Hand pruners are used to remove small-diameter branches and twigs up to about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. There are two types of hand pruners, bypass and anvil. Bypass (or scissor-type) pruning shears have two cutting blades, and cuts are made as the blades bypass each other. Anvil type hand pruners, on the other hand, have a single cutting blade that makes a cut down to a solid piece of metal. Cuts are made when the blade impacts the solid surface. The main difference to remember is that bypass pruners cut from two directions, and anvil pruners cut from one direction. Bypass pruners are usually preferred, as they do less compression damage to plants. |
Lopping Shears This type of pruning equipment is used for branches that are greater than 1 3/4 inches in diameter. They are similar to pruning shears, but have longer handles to provide the leverage needed to cut larger, stronger branches. Like hand pruners, these are also available as either bypass or anvil types. These are also great for smaller branches that are in hard-to-access places. |
Pruning Saws Branches greater than about 2-3 inches in diameter will call for the use of a pruning saw. Folding saws are very easy to carry around the garden safely, and have blades that are narrow, tapered, and/or curved to make it easier to remove branches. Most saws will have their teeth situated in such a way that cuts can be made by both pushing and pulling. These saws come in a variety of sizes and shapes, and are much quieter, simpler and safer to use than chainsaws. |
Pole Saws and Pole Pruners These tools are fantastic if a gardener has the need to clean up the lower canopy of a taller tree. They allow for pruning higher plants without the use of a ladder, which can sometimes be dangerous on the uneven ground of a landscape. Pole saws are essentially just saws on long poles, and pole pruners consist of a stationary hook and hinged blade, operated using a rope and mounted on a fiberglass or wooden pole. They can both be used to cut branches that are 2-3 inches in diameter. |
Keep it Sharp, Keep it Clean
Arguably the most critical part of using and owning pruning tools is keeping them clean and sharp. Tools can be cleaned with diluted household bleach (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) or with 70% rubbing alcohol. There are also some compounds and cleaners available for purchase at garden centers and online. After cleaning, tools should be rinsed with cold water, and then oiled to prevent them from rusting. Sharpness of blades is also important to both tool and plant longevity. Sharpening tools are available from most garden centers or online. Tools should be stored in a cool, dry place. Garages or locked tool sheds are ideal spaces to store these sharp tools, as they need to be kept away from curious children and pets.
Pruning Concepts
New Wood vs. Old Wood
When researching how to prune certain plants in the landscape, it is common to come across the terms 'new wood' and 'old wood'. Understanding which is which is critical to successfully pruning your garden shrubs, because pruning indiscriminately can ruin this year's or next year's flower show or fruit harvest. All perennial plants will have both old growth and new growth, but some genera and species of plants fall firmly into one category or the other regarding flowering wood. Old wood refers to wood that emerged prior to this year's dormancy period. In other words, the flowers (and fruit that follows) are created on wood that is at least one year old. These plants have current year or future year flower buds on it for 9 or more months out of the year. As a general rule of thumb, the earlier a plant blooms in springtime, the more likely it is that it flowers on old wood. Spring-blooming old-wood type plants include:
When researching how to prune certain plants in the landscape, it is common to come across the terms 'new wood' and 'old wood'. Understanding which is which is critical to successfully pruning your garden shrubs, because pruning indiscriminately can ruin this year's or next year's flower show or fruit harvest. All perennial plants will have both old growth and new growth, but some genera and species of plants fall firmly into one category or the other regarding flowering wood. Old wood refers to wood that emerged prior to this year's dormancy period. In other words, the flowers (and fruit that follows) are created on wood that is at least one year old. These plants have current year or future year flower buds on it for 9 or more months out of the year. As a general rule of thumb, the earlier a plant blooms in springtime, the more likely it is that it flowers on old wood. Spring-blooming old-wood type plants include:
Chokeberry
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For all of these plants that bloom on old wood, pruning should happen right after the plant finishes flowering. This way, there is no risk of removing developing growth that will produce flowers and fruits for the next growing season. If pruning does not happen for about a month or two after flowers fade, hold off pruning until after the next blooming season the following year, or the risk will increase of cutting off developing growth. New wood, on the other hand, refers to growth that develops in the current year after the tree or shrub emerges from dormancy. Most summer or fall-bloomers are of this type, including:
Winterberry
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New wood on these shrubs and trees should be pruned in late wintertime before new growth pushes out for the season. If buds are present on the shrub, it is a good indicator that the time has passed for pruning. It is better to wait until next year if this happens, because by pruning when buds are present, the growth that will produce flowers and fruits later in the season will be removed. |
Telling the difference between new and old growth can sometimes be a bit difficult. For many plants, old bark is typically darker, thicker, and harder. It is stiffer and will not bend as easily as new wood. Young bark is often smooth and thinner. These guidelines vary, however, because each plant is different. The only true way to tell new from old growth is to watch your plants. In springtime, note a section of new growth as it emerges in the springtime, and as it grows over the year. Then, when fall rolls around, compare it to a section of the plant that was already there in the spring. It can help to attach a piece of tape or a twist tie to mark new vs. old growth for later comparison. Pruning at the right time and making your cuts on the right type of wood means the difference between enjoying our fruits and flowers for the year or going without.
Selective Pruning vs. Shearing
Pruning and shearing are both methods of maintaining foliage, but have different goals and techniques. Pruning is the practice of selectively removing branches throughout a shrub for proper size, health, and structure. Shearing targets just the outer edges of a shrub and is done strictly for aesthetic purposes. When plants are sheared, growth is limited to the plant's outer parts, while the inner areas do not grow as well. Pruning has the benefit of dictating the plant's size, but with shearing, it is harder to control how large a plant gets. Shearing should be reserved for plants in formal landscapes. When shearing is done well, the overall goal is to maintain an elegant, showy look.
Pruning and shearing are both methods of maintaining foliage, but have different goals and techniques. Pruning is the practice of selectively removing branches throughout a shrub for proper size, health, and structure. Shearing targets just the outer edges of a shrub and is done strictly for aesthetic purposes. When plants are sheared, growth is limited to the plant's outer parts, while the inner areas do not grow as well. Pruning has the benefit of dictating the plant's size, but with shearing, it is harder to control how large a plant gets. Shearing should be reserved for plants in formal landscapes. When shearing is done well, the overall goal is to maintain an elegant, showy look.
In the average landscape, however, sheared shrubs can look out of place. Once a shrub is sheared, it will need to be trimmed multiple times through the active growing season to maintain its formal look. Pruned shrubs, on the other hand, don't need nearly as much attention, and are trimmed in tune with their natural shape. When we cut a woody plant like a tree or shrub, the plant then sends growth hormones to the cut, resulting in fresh new growth. Shearing causes plants to push out a bunch of new growth at every one of the tiny cuts made, resulting in a flush of new growth at the exterior of the plant.
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After a few years, plants that are sheared will lose all of their interior growth because the outer growth is so dense that it blocks light from entering the middle of the shrub. This leads to shrubs that only produce foliage on the exterior, and can actually decrease the overall health of the plant. Most shrubs respond well to selective pruning, which still has the ability to maintain a handsome shape while increasing the health of the plant. The goal of this method is to reveal or maintain the natural shape of the shrub, not to change it. In this way, shrubs can send much needed growth hormones to natural areas of the plant, encouraging an individual branch or bud to develop instead of a large number of tiny new branches. Growth is much more controlled. When selective pruning is completed, the shrub will still look like itself, just looser and a bit shorter. Knowing when to shear and when to prune is a critical piece of information for every gardener to have, and luckily most decisions can be made by answering a few questions about the plant.
Is the shrub deciduous or evergreen? If shrubs are deciduous, there is absolutely no need to shear. These plants do much better with selective pruning, and are healthier when they retain their natural shape. Examples of deciduous shrubs that should not be sheared include Forsythia, Burning Bush, and Lilac. |
Do I want this shrub trimmed into an unnatural shape? Plants like Boxwood or Yew are commonly shaped into topiaries or individual forms with shearing. Most other plants, even if they are evergreens, should not be sheared. These plants should instead be selectively pruned. There are also shrubs that naturally will form certain shapes, like balls, on their own. A good example of a shrub like this is Thuja occidentalis 'Mr. Bowling Ball' (pictured). |
Am I maintaining a formal or informal hedge? There are two types of hedges: informal and formal. Informal hedges are not sheared, and formal hedges are sheared. Both types of care can result in a neat looking row of plants, but shearing takes much more effort and time (shearing three times a year is common) , where informal hedges need pruning care just once a year. Formal hedges can be converted to informal hedges simply by switching up the pruning method used. |
Specialized Pruning
There are many commonly seen landscape shrubs and trees that have special pruning requirements each year. It is critical for both homeowners and their gardeners to know intimately how and when to prune each type of plant in the landscape to encourage each plant to thrive.
Pruning Hydrangeas
It is common to be a bit apprehensive about pruning Hydrangeas; nobody wants to remove the wood that will produce this year's big, beautiful blooms. Hydrangeas either bloom on new wood or old wood, and this tendency dictates when the shrubs should be pruned. Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood create the flower buds that will bloom the following year shortly after they finish blooming during the current one. Many Hydrangea types bloom on old wood including Bigleaf and Oakleaf forms. Prune these types before the middle of summer. If these shrubs are pruned in winter or early spring, flower buds for the next season will be removed. New-wood hydrangeas (including those in the paniculata and arborescens groups) flower on new wood, and can be pruned at any time of the year other than just before they bloom in springtime. For reblooming types of Hydrangea, like those in the Endless Summer series, the timing of pruning is less critical because they flower on both new and old wood. Hydrangeas do not have to be pruned every year; they should be pruned to control for size if desired, and when they are young to encourage a stronger branching structure to develop.
Pruning Spring-Flowering Trees and Shrubs
Early springtime bloomers like Lilac, Forsythia, and Rhododendron produce flowers on wood that was formed in the previous year, and therefore the best time to prune them is in late springtime, after most of the flowering activity has faded. Prune as soon as possible after flowers drop from the plant. If these are pruned later in the growing season or during the wintertime, there is a chance that next year's spring blooms will be removed from the plant. To keep these plants blooming vigorously, remove some of the oldest shoots all the way to the ground when pruning. This will trigger younger stems to form and produce blooms in the next season. Plants in this group should be pruned once every one to two years, depending on the situation. For example, shrubs grown as hedges or privacy screening may need a bit more pruning than shrubs that are growing in an unrestricted space.
Early springtime bloomers like Lilac, Forsythia, and Rhododendron produce flowers on wood that was formed in the previous year, and therefore the best time to prune them is in late springtime, after most of the flowering activity has faded. Prune as soon as possible after flowers drop from the plant. If these are pruned later in the growing season or during the wintertime, there is a chance that next year's spring blooms will be removed from the plant. To keep these plants blooming vigorously, remove some of the oldest shoots all the way to the ground when pruning. This will trigger younger stems to form and produce blooms in the next season. Plants in this group should be pruned once every one to two years, depending on the situation. For example, shrubs grown as hedges or privacy screening may need a bit more pruning than shrubs that are growing in an unrestricted space.
Pruning Summer-Blooming Trees and Shrubs
Plants that bloom during the summer produce their flowers on new growth that emerges during the current season. This group includes plants like Potentilla and Crape Myrtle. These are best pruned in late wintertime - or early springtime if cooler temperatures linger - while they are still dormant. Some shrubs in this group can even be cut fully back to the ground in late wintertime and they'll still bloom in that same year. Plants in this group should be pruned once every one to two years, depending on the situation. For example, shrubs grown as hedges or privacy screening may need a bit more pruning than shrubs that are growing in an unrestricted space.
Plants that bloom during the summer produce their flowers on new growth that emerges during the current season. This group includes plants like Potentilla and Crape Myrtle. These are best pruned in late wintertime - or early springtime if cooler temperatures linger - while they are still dormant. Some shrubs in this group can even be cut fully back to the ground in late wintertime and they'll still bloom in that same year. Plants in this group should be pruned once every one to two years, depending on the situation. For example, shrubs grown as hedges or privacy screening may need a bit more pruning than shrubs that are growing in an unrestricted space.
Pruning Shrubs Without Showy Blooms
There are many deciduous shrubs that are grown primarily for foliage, including Smoke Tree, and these can be cut back at any time of the year except for in late autumn. New growth that emerges after a late season pruning will be too tender to survive winter's cool temperatures, and can open the plant up to developing other issues in its injured state. If a major pruning, also called a rejuvenation pruning, needs to occur, it is best to cut the shrub back when it is dormant in wintertime or early spring. Plants in this group should be pruned once every one to two years, depending on the situation. For example, shrubs grown as hedges or privacy screening may need a bit more pruning than shrubs that are growing in an unrestricted space.
There are many deciduous shrubs that are grown primarily for foliage, including Smoke Tree, and these can be cut back at any time of the year except for in late autumn. New growth that emerges after a late season pruning will be too tender to survive winter's cool temperatures, and can open the plant up to developing other issues in its injured state. If a major pruning, also called a rejuvenation pruning, needs to occur, it is best to cut the shrub back when it is dormant in wintertime or early spring. Plants in this group should be pruned once every one to two years, depending on the situation. For example, shrubs grown as hedges or privacy screening may need a bit more pruning than shrubs that are growing in an unrestricted space.
Shearing Shrubs
Commonly sheared hedge plants include Yew and Boxwood. These should be sheared during the early part of the growing season in spring and summertime, and can be sheared every 6-8 weeks during this period. Keep the top a very slight bit narrower than the bottom of the shrub in order to avoid upper branches from shading lower ones too much. Stop shearing the hedge about six weeks before the first frost to allow for new growth to mature before cold temperatures set in. Shearing too late into the season can lead to a general browning on the surface of the shrub. Late winter to early spring or in the middle of summertime are great seasons for pruning hedges more drastically, for example if they need rejuvenating or renovating.
Commonly sheared hedge plants include Yew and Boxwood. These should be sheared during the early part of the growing season in spring and summertime, and can be sheared every 6-8 weeks during this period. Keep the top a very slight bit narrower than the bottom of the shrub in order to avoid upper branches from shading lower ones too much. Stop shearing the hedge about six weeks before the first frost to allow for new growth to mature before cold temperatures set in. Shearing too late into the season can lead to a general browning on the surface of the shrub. Late winter to early spring or in the middle of summertime are great seasons for pruning hedges more drastically, for example if they need rejuvenating or renovating.
Pruning Roses
Climbing varieties of roses and old garden roses that bloom only one time per season should be treated as springtime-blooming shrubs, pruned after they finish blooming. Repeat blooming types of roses, including hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, miniatures, and modern shrub roses are pruned mostly to re-shape the plant and remove wintertime cold-damaged stems. If plants are becoming overgrown, the best time to heavily prune is in early springtime, before new growth is pushed out for the year. During the blooming season, frequently deadheading blooms that are browning will encourage the plant to push out more blooms and elongate the blooming season. Otherwise, rose plants should be pruned yearly.
Climbing varieties of roses and old garden roses that bloom only one time per season should be treated as springtime-blooming shrubs, pruned after they finish blooming. Repeat blooming types of roses, including hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, miniatures, and modern shrub roses are pruned mostly to re-shape the plant and remove wintertime cold-damaged stems. If plants are becoming overgrown, the best time to heavily prune is in early springtime, before new growth is pushed out for the year. During the blooming season, frequently deadheading blooms that are browning will encourage the plant to push out more blooms and elongate the blooming season. Otherwise, rose plants should be pruned yearly.
Pruning Deciduous Shade Trees
Shade trees that lose their leaves each year should be pruned when they are dormant in wintertime. It is the easiest time of the year to see their true branching structure without the foliage in the way. Avoid pruning deciduous trees in late summertime, when they will not have enough time to recover to stay healthy over the fall and winter wet months. Trees in this category include Linden, Oak, and Ash. For trees that produce a heavy sap flow (such as Birch, Maple, Elm or Dogwood) after pruning, wait until leaves have fully expanded in summertime to prune. Young trees between one and five years old should have about 25% of their canopy pruned off yearly, and mature trees should have about 20% of their canopies pruned every 3 to 5 years.
Shade trees that lose their leaves each year should be pruned when they are dormant in wintertime. It is the easiest time of the year to see their true branching structure without the foliage in the way. Avoid pruning deciduous trees in late summertime, when they will not have enough time to recover to stay healthy over the fall and winter wet months. Trees in this category include Linden, Oak, and Ash. For trees that produce a heavy sap flow (such as Birch, Maple, Elm or Dogwood) after pruning, wait until leaves have fully expanded in summertime to prune. Young trees between one and five years old should have about 25% of their canopy pruned off yearly, and mature trees should have about 20% of their canopies pruned every 3 to 5 years.
Pruning Deciduous Fruit Trees
Trees grown for their edible fruits are often deciduous -though some are evergreen- and fall into this category, which includes Apples, Crabapples, Peaches, Pears, Plums, and Cherries. All of these trees or large shrubs should be pruned in the middle of wintertime. This means that during pruning activities, some buds will be sacrificed, but the tree will bounce back and still have a healthy harvest in the same year. The goal is to open up the tree to allow more light into the center of the canopy. This will ultimately increase fruit production and also will increase the health of the tree overall. This type of pruning, called dormant pruning, lessens the chance that bacterial diseases such as Fireblight will infect the tree as it heals. In general, younger trees that are being shaped should be pruned yearly, and trees over 6 years old should be pruned every three to five years for maintenance.
Trees grown for their edible fruits are often deciduous -though some are evergreen- and fall into this category, which includes Apples, Crabapples, Peaches, Pears, Plums, and Cherries. All of these trees or large shrubs should be pruned in the middle of wintertime. This means that during pruning activities, some buds will be sacrificed, but the tree will bounce back and still have a healthy harvest in the same year. The goal is to open up the tree to allow more light into the center of the canopy. This will ultimately increase fruit production and also will increase the health of the tree overall. This type of pruning, called dormant pruning, lessens the chance that bacterial diseases such as Fireblight will infect the tree as it heals. In general, younger trees that are being shaped should be pruned yearly, and trees over 6 years old should be pruned every three to five years for maintenance.
Pruning Broadleaf Evergreens
Most of these plants don't need much in the way of pruning. This group includes Holly, Mahonia, Magnolia, and evergreen shrubs like Thuja. The best time to prune these plants is in the early springtime, just before they push out new growth for the year. Minor shapings and prunings can be completed at other times of the year, as well, without harming the plant. For the most part, though, leave this group to their own devices.
Most of these plants don't need much in the way of pruning. This group includes Holly, Mahonia, Magnolia, and evergreen shrubs like Thuja. The best time to prune these plants is in the early springtime, just before they push out new growth for the year. Minor shapings and prunings can be completed at other times of the year, as well, without harming the plant. For the most part, though, leave this group to their own devices.
Pruning Needle-Leaf Evergreens
Most trees and shrubs with needle-like or scale-like foliage, including Spruce, Juniper, Arborvitae, Cypress, Fir, and Yew, are best pruned early in the growing season. Avoid cutting these trees back into wood that does not have any green needles. These areas are not likely to sprout new growth, and pruning these areas back will result in bald spots on the plant that will not grow back in. Pruning needle-leaf evergreens just before the holiday season can provide fragrant greenery for centerpieces, wreaths, and other decorations.
Most trees and shrubs with needle-like or scale-like foliage, including Spruce, Juniper, Arborvitae, Cypress, Fir, and Yew, are best pruned early in the growing season. Avoid cutting these trees back into wood that does not have any green needles. These areas are not likely to sprout new growth, and pruning these areas back will result in bald spots on the plant that will not grow back in. Pruning needle-leaf evergreens just before the holiday season can provide fragrant greenery for centerpieces, wreaths, and other decorations.
Pruning Pine Trees
True pine trees are quite picky about their pruning needs when compared to other needle-leaf evergreens. Pines only form growing buds at branch tips before the stem becomes woody. For best results, these plants should only be pruned in the 'candle stage', which is before new shoots turn woody and before the pine needles have fully expanded. Prune just a portion of the new growth, removing up to half of the expanding candle. These trees typically form handsome shapes when mature, and don't need much in the way of formal shaping.
True pine trees are quite picky about their pruning needs when compared to other needle-leaf evergreens. Pines only form growing buds at branch tips before the stem becomes woody. For best results, these plants should only be pruned in the 'candle stage', which is before new shoots turn woody and before the pine needles have fully expanded. Prune just a portion of the new growth, removing up to half of the expanding candle. These trees typically form handsome shapes when mature, and don't need much in the way of formal shaping.
Pruning Perennial Flowering Plants
Perennial flowers look best when faded flowers are removed in a process called deadheading. In response to deadheading, many flowering perennials will push out a new cycle of flowers. If these plants become too tall and leggy, or if they begin to flop over and cause a bald spot to form in the middle, try cutting back the entire plant back to between 6 and 12 inches from the ground. This type of haircut will force the plant to form new branches closer to the ground that are stronger and more able to create a full look. Plants in this group should be pruned yearly.
Perennial flowers look best when faded flowers are removed in a process called deadheading. In response to deadheading, many flowering perennials will push out a new cycle of flowers. If these plants become too tall and leggy, or if they begin to flop over and cause a bald spot to form in the middle, try cutting back the entire plant back to between 6 and 12 inches from the ground. This type of haircut will force the plant to form new branches closer to the ground that are stronger and more able to create a full look. Plants in this group should be pruned yearly.
Pruning Annual Flowering Plants
The annual flowers in the garden should be deadheaded regularly to keep them blooming well. Annual plants produce flowers once in their lifetime, and then fade, which means that they respond very well to deadheading. This also prevents annual plants from setting seed and spreading into areas of the garden where they are not wanted. Some annuals like petunias have a sprawling habit and develop bare stems towards their bases. Plants that have this tendency can have their stems cut back to force a more compact growth and renewed bloom.
The annual flowers in the garden should be deadheaded regularly to keep them blooming well. Annual plants produce flowers once in their lifetime, and then fade, which means that they respond very well to deadheading. This also prevents annual plants from setting seed and spreading into areas of the garden where they are not wanted. Some annuals like petunias have a sprawling habit and develop bare stems towards their bases. Plants that have this tendency can have their stems cut back to force a more compact growth and renewed bloom.
Pruning Bush Berries
This group includes bushes like Blueberry. Gooseberry, and Currant. Stems that are three years old or younger are generally the most productive. To maintain a constant supply of productive wood, prune out about 1/3 of the oldest stems on the shrubs each winter, cutting the stems back to ground level.
This group includes bushes like Blueberry. Gooseberry, and Currant. Stems that are three years old or younger are generally the most productive. To maintain a constant supply of productive wood, prune out about 1/3 of the oldest stems on the shrubs each winter, cutting the stems back to ground level.
Pruning Cane Berries
Shrubs such as Blackberry and Raspberry fall into this category, and produce long stems called canes. On most plants, canes will not produce fruits until their second year of growth. After bearing fruits, the cane dies and is replaced by another, which is ready to produce in its second year again. Remove the two-year old canes after they are finished fruiting, as they will not fruit again and will encourage disease and pests to come around if left on the plant. Pinch back the tips of first-year canes when they reach about 3-4 feet tall to cause the cane to branch and produce more fruits. There are some plants in this group that are exceptions to the pruning rules discussed here, including everbearing raspberries. These plants form a late summer crop on the tips of first-year canes, so these branches should not be pinched back. Instead, simply remove stem tips that have produced fruit in winter. The following summertime, the lower portion of the stem will produce fruits. After these fruits are done bearing, completely remove the cane.
Shrubs such as Blackberry and Raspberry fall into this category, and produce long stems called canes. On most plants, canes will not produce fruits until their second year of growth. After bearing fruits, the cane dies and is replaced by another, which is ready to produce in its second year again. Remove the two-year old canes after they are finished fruiting, as they will not fruit again and will encourage disease and pests to come around if left on the plant. Pinch back the tips of first-year canes when they reach about 3-4 feet tall to cause the cane to branch and produce more fruits. There are some plants in this group that are exceptions to the pruning rules discussed here, including everbearing raspberries. These plants form a late summer crop on the tips of first-year canes, so these branches should not be pinched back. Instead, simply remove stem tips that have produced fruit in winter. The following summertime, the lower portion of the stem will produce fruits. After these fruits are done bearing, completely remove the cane.
Pruning Grape Vines
Grapes are vigorous growers and will need extensive pruning each year to keep them productive. Most training systems for grape vines involve developing a main stem (or trunk) with several lateral arms or stems. Grapes will fruit on these lateral stems, which are shoots from the current season's woody growth. Prune all grapes close to their lateral stem each year during the dormant season to produce the best fruits. The degree of pruning depends on the vigor of the variety. Prune vigorous varieties more heavily than weak growers.
Grapes are vigorous growers and will need extensive pruning each year to keep them productive. Most training systems for grape vines involve developing a main stem (or trunk) with several lateral arms or stems. Grapes will fruit on these lateral stems, which are shoots from the current season's woody growth. Prune all grapes close to their lateral stem each year during the dormant season to produce the best fruits. The degree of pruning depends on the vigor of the variety. Prune vigorous varieties more heavily than weak growers.
Special Circumstances
In addition to specialized pruning advice for individual plants, there are pruning tips for special times of the year or certain points in a plant's development, as well. As a general rule, when plants are undergoing stress from environmental conditions it is best in most circumstances to leave plants to their own devices and hold off pruning until things have calmed down.
Pruning after Frost Damage
Along with the cooler temperatures of winter and springtime, plants may show signs of frost damage. Frost can leave plants looking wilted and discolored, with blackened tips and foliage. Although these damaged plant parts may look ugly and in need of cleaning up, pruning too soon after a frost can actually further damage or kill the plant. Wilted foliage, when allowed to stay on the plant, actually insulates the plant from further frost damage. When freezing temperatures cause damage to plant parts, it impacts the most exposed parts of the plant first and most intensely. A plant's outer foliage partially shields the inner structure of the plant and lessens the damage through the interior. Depending on the plant and how it normally reacts to damage, the dead or dying leaves around the outside of the plant form a layer that will potentially last through the frost season into springtime.
Along with the cooler temperatures of winter and springtime, plants may show signs of frost damage. Frost can leave plants looking wilted and discolored, with blackened tips and foliage. Although these damaged plant parts may look ugly and in need of cleaning up, pruning too soon after a frost can actually further damage or kill the plant. Wilted foliage, when allowed to stay on the plant, actually insulates the plant from further frost damage. When freezing temperatures cause damage to plant parts, it impacts the most exposed parts of the plant first and most intensely. A plant's outer foliage partially shields the inner structure of the plant and lessens the damage through the interior. Depending on the plant and how it normally reacts to damage, the dead or dying leaves around the outside of the plant form a layer that will potentially last through the frost season into springtime.
Removing these damaged-looking plant parts can (and most likely, will) cause the plant to push out new growth too early, which will be killed or damaged by the next frost. As a rule of thumb, if a plant endures frost damage, an appropriate action would be to cover the plant with frost cloth or burlap during subsequent frost conditions, not to prune off damaged parts. The best time to prune off frost-damaged plant parts is a few weeks after the last frost of the year has passed. Once temperatures have warmed, but before new growth has really had a chance to push out for the year, it is time to prune off damaged plant parts. Begin by checking for signs of life in branches and stems. Live branches will bend, and dead branches will snap. Dead foliage can all be removed at this time, as well, for improved aesthetics.
Pruning During Drought
Pruning activities should be drastically lessened, if not discontinued, during periods of drought. Trees with drought stress are already more susceptible to pest and disease issues, and adding pruning into the mix can create a perfect environment for decline and possible death. The reasoning behind this practice is based on the following basic pruning concepts:
Pruning activities should be drastically lessened, if not discontinued, during periods of drought. Trees with drought stress are already more susceptible to pest and disease issues, and adding pruning into the mix can create a perfect environment for decline and possible death. The reasoning behind this practice is based on the following basic pruning concepts:
- Pruning Removes Live Tissue. Making cuts to any plants will take away living tissue (that's the point of pruning in the first place), but in doing so, opens the tree up to wounds. This forces plants to spend valuable energy and water resources mending wounds, and sometimes if there aren't enough resources (mainly water), wounds won't heal in a sufficient amount of time.
- Pruning Stimulates New Growth. Cutting off plant parts commonly means taking off terminal buds, which releases the lateral buds further down branches to be activated to grow. This is not ideal during times of drought, because putting on new growth requires a large amount of water.
Repotting and Root Pruning
Container-grown plants are pruned on the same schedule and in the same way as their in-ground counterparts. However, there is a special type of pruning carried out on these plants when they are repotted. Every three to five years on average, container pots should be potted up into a larger pot to accommodate its above-ground growth. This can encourage potted trees to grow wider, more lush canopies, allow privacy shrubs to grow in even thicker and taller, and even prolong the life of a container plant. During the repotting process, while the root ball is out of its old container, many gardeners choose to assess the roots and do a light pruning. To complete this process, follow the steps below:
Container-grown plants are pruned on the same schedule and in the same way as their in-ground counterparts. However, there is a special type of pruning carried out on these plants when they are repotted. Every three to five years on average, container pots should be potted up into a larger pot to accommodate its above-ground growth. This can encourage potted trees to grow wider, more lush canopies, allow privacy shrubs to grow in even thicker and taller, and even prolong the life of a container plant. During the repotting process, while the root ball is out of its old container, many gardeners choose to assess the roots and do a light pruning. To complete this process, follow the steps below:
- Assess whether your plant needs repotting. There are a few situations in which container plants need to be potted up to a larger size. If visible roots are growing through the holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good sign that the plant needs to be repotted. Another indicator to watch out for is if soil is not draining. If water is not coming through the holes in the bottom of the pot, the soil could be too compacted to drain, and will need to be replaced. Plants that seem top heavy are also great candidates for potting up, as well as plants that have stunted new growth or yellowing/dropping leaves.
- Pull the plant out. Depending on a number of factors, this step can be simple or difficult. Some plants have been in their pots for so long that the roots have stretched the container walls and they are difficult to pull out. Roots growing through the bottom of the container can also make it hard to pull a plant out. Prune off roots that poke through the bottom holes, strike the sides of the container multiple times with the butt of a trowel, or simply cut the container open (if it is a thin nursery pot) for easier removal.
- Examine and prune the root system. Roots should be growing out in a classic branching structure, not forming circles on the interior of the pot. Untangle roots carefully and lay them out. Prune off all dead, diseased, or damaged roots and prune all larger roots back by up to 1/3. Finer roots can also be trimmed back at this time.
- Repot the plant. Choose a pot that is at least 2 inches wider than the previous one, and fill the bottom in with fresh soil amended with compost. Continue to add soil until the root ball can be set inside with its top surface sitting 2 inches below the rim. Once the plant is at the right height, fill in soil and compost around the outside of the root ball. After the container has been filled, apply a layer of mulch and water in the plant, ensuring that good drainage is occurring.
Pinching Young Plants
Pinching, also known as tipping, is a technique used to either encourage or discourage branching in young plants. Depending on where on the plant this activity takes place, pinching can encourage a more dense branching structure or can remove the plant buds that will form branches. These techniques are used by growers when plants are still very young in order to create a certain shape or structure. When a plant begins to grow from seed, it typically has one growing apex through which a stem and leaves begin to form. It will continue to put on new growth to this main stem indefinitely, which creates a tall, slender plant with minimal branching. These techniques can be used on smaller seedling plants recently purchased from nurseries, as well. Pinching must be done properly and is not for use on mature plants, woody shrubs, or trees. Pinching is only done on tender new growth that is easily removed by pinching together the tips of your fingers, and is most famously done with tomato plants to remove suckers. There are a few tips to keep in mind when pinching:
Pinching, also known as tipping, is a technique used to either encourage or discourage branching in young plants. Depending on where on the plant this activity takes place, pinching can encourage a more dense branching structure or can remove the plant buds that will form branches. These techniques are used by growers when plants are still very young in order to create a certain shape or structure. When a plant begins to grow from seed, it typically has one growing apex through which a stem and leaves begin to form. It will continue to put on new growth to this main stem indefinitely, which creates a tall, slender plant with minimal branching. These techniques can be used on smaller seedling plants recently purchased from nurseries, as well. Pinching must be done properly and is not for use on mature plants, woody shrubs, or trees. Pinching is only done on tender new growth that is easily removed by pinching together the tips of your fingers, and is most famously done with tomato plants to remove suckers. There are a few tips to keep in mind when pinching:
- Pick the right spot. Once a plant has formed a few pairs of leaves on its main stem, it is ready to be pinched. Plants grow buds at the base of each leaf, just above the point where the leaf connects to the stem. This area is called a node, and the area between each pair of leaves on a plant is called the internode. To stimulate buds to open and form new branches, remove the growth just above the leaves.
- Don't damage the buds. Remove as much of the internode as possible while pinching, but take care not to damage the buds growing at the base of the leaves or they will not grow properly. Use your fingernails or a small pruning tool (such as snips) for this type of pruning to make clean cuts.
- Repeat. Once plants have been pinched, remaining buds will be stimulated to grow. Within a few days, the remaining buds should start to look a bit different. They will soon begin to open and form new stems. Eventually, these stems will also form new leaves with buds at their bases. Once this occurs, the pinching process can be repeated, forcing branches to bush out even more.
- Know when to stop. Once a plant is sufficiently bushy, stop pinching flowering plants so that they will begin to form flowers. Edible herbs like basil are best harvested via pinching, which encourages new edible growth and discourages flowers and seeds. When flowers and seeds form, their growth may inhibit further production of the tasty herbal leaves, and remaining leaves may become less palatable.
Rejuvenation Pruning
This type of pruning, also called renewal pruning, is done to overgrown shrubs or older shrubs that need structural assistance. During these heavy prunings, plants can have many, most, or all of their limbs cut back to the ground. The amount and type of cuts made depend on the plant's unique characteristics and how overgrown the shrub is. Rejuvenation prunings will trigger the plant to put on a flush of new growth over the next few growing seasons, and create a new, healthier branching structure.
This type of pruning, also called renewal pruning, is done to overgrown shrubs or older shrubs that need structural assistance. During these heavy prunings, plants can have many, most, or all of their limbs cut back to the ground. The amount and type of cuts made depend on the plant's unique characteristics and how overgrown the shrub is. Rejuvenation prunings will trigger the plant to put on a flush of new growth over the next few growing seasons, and create a new, healthier branching structure.
Pruning Newly Planted Fruit Trees
Pruning newly installed fruit trees ensures that they will develop a strong branching structure capable of producing the greatest harvest possible once they hit maturity. Although it may seem drastic, fruit trees should be cut down to between 24 and 30 inches tall and all side shoots should be pruned back to one bud, if there are any still on the tree after the initial cut.. This will create a situation where the tree creates a good low branching system and balances out the canopy and roots.
Pruning newly installed fruit trees ensures that they will develop a strong branching structure capable of producing the greatest harvest possible once they hit maturity. Although it may seem drastic, fruit trees should be cut down to between 24 and 30 inches tall and all side shoots should be pruned back to one bud, if there are any still on the tree after the initial cut.. This will create a situation where the tree creates a good low branching system and balances out the canopy and roots.
Tips for Successful Pruning
Pruning is a valuable skill that can greatly enhance the health and beauty of the garden. By gaining an understanding of why, when, and how to prune, you can maintain a thriving landscape with well-shaped, healthy plants. The following tips and tricks are essential to keep in mind while carrying out pruning activities:
Choose the Right Tool for the Job
Using the correct tool for pruning may seem like an obvious step, but it is one that is neglected in many gardens. On the whole, bypass pruners are preferred over anvil-types because they make cleaner cuts, leading to less damage and disease issues after pruning. Make sure to use the right sized, tools, as well. Smaller clippers should not be used to attempt removing a branch on a tree or large shrub. Multiple, messy cuts will be necessary in this situation, and lead to too many entry points for disease. If you do not have the correct tool for the job, borrow one from a friend or neighbor, or hire a professional. |
That's The Spot
Make sure to make pruning cuts just above buds, but not so close that you damage them. If a cut is made too far above a bud. water can get trapped in the stub and lead to rotting, which allows disease to creep in to the plant. As a general rule, a great spot to make a pruning cut above a bud at a distance equal to about a quarter of the stem's thickness. |
Cut Back Weak Growth Thick, strong shoots will have a natural vigor to them, and thinner ones will be a bit more brittle and slow to grow. Prune back weak stems harder, cutting them shorter than the strong ones. Cut out weak shoots from the base of plants to direct more energy towards upper, stronger branches. |
Common Pruning Mistakes
Unfortunately, pruning is only noticeable when it goes wrong. Pruning is both a science and an art, and involves recognizing plant flaws and skillfully eliminating or minimizing them. Most gardeners have felt the sheer panic that sets in after making an incorrect pruning cut, resulting in misshapen shrubs, loss of a show-stopping flower, or accidental early harvest of an unripe bunch of tomatoes. Thankfully, there are steps to take to remedy just about any errant pruning situation.
Oversnipping
Sometimes we can get so obsessed with shaping our hedges that we snip in too many places, causing overgrowth of foliage towards the exterior of a plant. This issue can be remedied by holding off on snipping for a while, and then going in at the right time and making intentional pruning cuts on branches farther in towards the center of the plant. At the end of the growing season, (in late summer or early fall), select the strongest and most vigorous branch on the shrub, making sure it is growing in a desirable direction. Remove all other competing branches back to the trunk if possible, or back to the next main supporting limb. This will ensure that the branch you have chosen to stimulate will have a dominant bud, and prevent the branches below it from growing back.
Sometimes we can get so obsessed with shaping our hedges that we snip in too many places, causing overgrowth of foliage towards the exterior of a plant. This issue can be remedied by holding off on snipping for a while, and then going in at the right time and making intentional pruning cuts on branches farther in towards the center of the plant. At the end of the growing season, (in late summer or early fall), select the strongest and most vigorous branch on the shrub, making sure it is growing in a desirable direction. Remove all other competing branches back to the trunk if possible, or back to the next main supporting limb. This will ensure that the branch you have chosen to stimulate will have a dominant bud, and prevent the branches below it from growing back.
Summer Pruning Conifers
When the garden is at its most full-foliaged, it is common to look at some of the larger trees in the landscape that are taking up valuable space with their lower foliage and be tempted to cut them back. Conifers in particular are usually the subjects of this frustration, as their lower branches need such a wide berth. A natural reaction is to cut these lower branches back, so that at the very least they are not interfering with the growth of other plants. This will always leave a stubby branch towards the base of a conifer that will not grow back. It will always be brown and it will always be ugly. If a tree in the landscape has fallen victim to this type of pruning mistake, the entire branch needs to be removed back to the main trunk. This will stimulate new growth at the base, and possibly encourage a new branch to grow in its place.
When the garden is at its most full-foliaged, it is common to look at some of the larger trees in the landscape that are taking up valuable space with their lower foliage and be tempted to cut them back. Conifers in particular are usually the subjects of this frustration, as their lower branches need such a wide berth. A natural reaction is to cut these lower branches back, so that at the very least they are not interfering with the growth of other plants. This will always leave a stubby branch towards the base of a conifer that will not grow back. It will always be brown and it will always be ugly. If a tree in the landscape has fallen victim to this type of pruning mistake, the entire branch needs to be removed back to the main trunk. This will stimulate new growth at the base, and possibly encourage a new branch to grow in its place.
The Wrong Plant
It is common for gardeners to see a plant at the nursery, love its shape, and take it home only to find that it outgrows the space it was planted in and needs to be heavily pruned each year to keep a desirable shape or size. Despite diligent pruning, if a plant is too large for a space, it will never be able to keep a small size and stay healthy. The more woody plants are shaped, the more dense they will become and eventually they will begin to die from the inside out. Unfortunately, the only fix for this issue is to remove the plant and replace it with one that is more appropriate for the size and shape of the space. A plant's habit is genetically predetermined, and pruning will never be able to slow a plant's growth. For plants that have been subjected to years of this type of treatment, areas with dense branching will need to be cut back to the trunk, and outer scaffold branches need to be kept in place. This will allow the sunlight to penetrate into the interior of the plant, and it will send out new healthy growth. Over time, a more natural habit can be encouraged to re-emerge.
It is common for gardeners to see a plant at the nursery, love its shape, and take it home only to find that it outgrows the space it was planted in and needs to be heavily pruned each year to keep a desirable shape or size. Despite diligent pruning, if a plant is too large for a space, it will never be able to keep a small size and stay healthy. The more woody plants are shaped, the more dense they will become and eventually they will begin to die from the inside out. Unfortunately, the only fix for this issue is to remove the plant and replace it with one that is more appropriate for the size and shape of the space. A plant's habit is genetically predetermined, and pruning will never be able to slow a plant's growth. For plants that have been subjected to years of this type of treatment, areas with dense branching will need to be cut back to the trunk, and outer scaffold branches need to be kept in place. This will allow the sunlight to penetrate into the interior of the plant, and it will send out new healthy growth. Over time, a more natural habit can be encouraged to re-emerge.
A Bit Off the Top
Another common pruning mistake is to see a tree in the landscape that is too tall, and to chop off the top of the tree to make it more manageable. This is seen a lot in trees that are growing underneath power lines, where PG&E has had a service come through and lower trees for safety purposes. Topping trees in this way causes them to create several new leaders to replace the one(s) that were lost. These leaders compete with each other, and compromise the structural integrity of the tree. These trees are no longer able to deal with frost, wind, snow, or ice as well, and also affects the tree's ability to photosynthesize efficiently. To remedy this situation, choose a single leader out of the group and remove all others.
Another common pruning mistake is to see a tree in the landscape that is too tall, and to chop off the top of the tree to make it more manageable. This is seen a lot in trees that are growing underneath power lines, where PG&E has had a service come through and lower trees for safety purposes. Topping trees in this way causes them to create several new leaders to replace the one(s) that were lost. These leaders compete with each other, and compromise the structural integrity of the tree. These trees are no longer able to deal with frost, wind, snow, or ice as well, and also affects the tree's ability to photosynthesize efficiently. To remedy this situation, choose a single leader out of the group and remove all others.
Skipping Prunings
Not pruning shrubs and trees when they need to be is a common mistake made in home gardens. Although plants are completely fine for the most part when left to their own devices, some of the more desirable aspects of the plant may be lost. For example, flowering and fruiting may suffer, or certain aesthetic qualities may be lessened. The easiest fix for not pruning is simply to prune.
Not pruning shrubs and trees when they need to be is a common mistake made in home gardens. Although plants are completely fine for the most part when left to their own devices, some of the more desirable aspects of the plant may be lost. For example, flowering and fruiting may suffer, or certain aesthetic qualities may be lessened. The easiest fix for not pruning is simply to prune.
Conclusion
When caring for a garden, pruning is by no means the easiest task, but it has a great potential to improve the health of the landscape, and encourages plants to be their most resilient selves. Before moving on to the next module, make sure to check out the Key Terms page for this module, review the Resources & References section below, and complete the homework activities.
Homework
Click the button below to access the activities and homework questions for this Module. If you'd like to print the homework page or any other resources, visit the printables page.