Ptilotus

( TILE - ote - uss )

At-A-Glance Information

Commonly called Mulla Mulla, Foxtails, Lamb's Tails or Pussy Tails, this Australian genus of annuals and perennials includes species which need full sun and little to moderate water to perform well in the landscape. These plants bloom profusely, with flower heads shaped a bit like feather dusters. Plants generally reach about 18 inches tall in the garden and have reddish stems supporting flower clusters. These unique flowers are used in rock gardens, container plantings, in mixed beds and borders, massed, or in pollinator gardens to attract bees and butterflies. Ptilotus is also grown as a cut flower for fresh arrangements.

Ptilotus Species and Varietals

The genus Ptilotus is a member of the plant family Amaranthaceae and includes around 120 species. The plants in this genus are related to those in Amaranthus (Amaranth) and Celosia (Cockscomb). Mulla Mulla grows best in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11 or Sunset growing zones 13-17 and 19-24. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Ptilotus exaltatus (Pink Mulla Mulla, Lamb's Tail, Tall Mulla Mulla)
This species is divided into perennial and annual cultivars, both with silvery foliage and spikes of feathery flowers. Cultivars include those in the Joey Strain (pictured) which are annuals, prefer acidic soil, grow to 12-15 inches tall and a little less wide, and have pink flowers. Perennial 'Platinum Wallaby' likes alkaline soil, is 18 inches tall and wide with pink-blue blooms.

Ptilotus latifolius (Tangled Mulla Mulla, White Foxtail)
This perennial grows naturally in sand dunes and in stony plains, and takes a shrubby form. Small white flowers bloom in clusters, and have pink tips when newly blossomed. These plants are native to semi-arid regions of central and western Australia and reach up to just over three feet tall and 4 feet wide at maturity.

Ptilotus nobilis (Yellow Tails, Regal Foxtail, Tall Mulla Mulla)
This short-lived perennial or annual species reaches up to 12-18 inches tall and wide at maturity, with sparse leaves and white flowers. They are great filler plant for dry areas of the garden, and produce whitish-green blossoms. Cultivars include 'Passion' (an upright grower with purple flowerheads), 'Poise' (with two-toned tan and pink flowers), and 'Purity' (with greenish-yellow blooms).

Ptilotus polystachyus (Prince of Wales Feather, Bottle-Washers, Long Pussy-Tails, Long-Tails)
These plants reach between 40 and 60 inches tall when mature and in bloom, and produce terminal inflorescences of greenish-brown flowers. They are native to all mainland Australian states and the Northern Territory.

Caring for Ptilotus

Plant Ptilotus flowers in springtime in full sun. They will flower best when they receive between 6 and 8 hours of direct sun each day. If they are grown in too shaded of a space, they will become leggy, floppy and not flower well. They require very good drainage and do not react well to overwatering; ensure that soil is well-draining before installing plants and that it has a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention.

Water new plantings regularly as they develop a strong root system. At maturity, these plants appreciate consistently moist soil around their roots, but will develop problems if left in standing water. Water deeply once a week, and provide more supplemental waterings in hot, dry months of the year. Each year in springtime, apply a 2-inch layer of organic compost around the planting area to improve soil structure, drainage, and nutrient load. This one feeding will be sufficient to carry the plants through their active growing and blooming seasons. Prune plants to control size and shape if necessary, and deadhead flowers as they fade to neaten the appearance of the plant. Annual species and cultivars can be pulled up and thrown in the compost pile at the end of each growing season, and perennial plants can be cut back each year in early springtime to encourage a new flush of bushy growth to emerge. They are considered short-lived perennial plants and will last a few years in the garden before needing to be replaced.

Caring for Ptilotus in Containers
Ptilotus shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Ptilotus plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Annual species and cultivars can be pulled up and thrown in the compost pile at the end of each growing season, and perennial plants can be cut back each year in early springtime to encourage a new flush of bushy growth to emerge. They are considered short-lived perennial plants and will last a few years in containers before needing to be replaced.

Propagation

Ptilotus, or Mulla Mulla, can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your Mulla Mulla flowers, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Ptilotus by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.

Propagating Ptilotus by Seed

Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds. Cut the dried up flower spikes off of the plant and place them in a container or paper bag. This will keep the seeds contained as you harvest more flower spikes. Once at a clean workspace, separate the seeds from the plant parts. They are very tiny, so take care when handling them.
In late summertime or early springtime, water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 7-10 days from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.