Solanum lycopersicum
( so - LAY - num lye - koh - PER - sih - kum )
Home grown tomatoes, home grown tomatoes
What would life be like without home grown tomatoes
Only two things that money can't buy
That's true love and home grown tomatoes
- John Denver
What would life be like without home grown tomatoes
Only two things that money can't buy
That's true love and home grown tomatoes
- John Denver
introduction
Tomatoes, originally native to South America, Mexico, and Central America, are grown in home gardens and commercial farms around the world. They are a staple fruit included in many dishes, adding color, acidity, and wonderful umami flavors. There are over 10,000 different cultivars and varieties of tomato plant, each with their own distinct qualities in flavor, texture, skin color, and size.
Indeterminate vs. Determinate Tomato Varieties
Tomatoes are generally grouped into two categories depending on their growth habit. Indeterminate tomato plants will grow continuously until they are killed by frost or disease, and will produce fruits through the entire growing season. Most varieties will need a decent amount of space to grow - some can reach 8-10 feet tall in a single growing season - and will need the support of a trellis, tomato cage, or other structure to perform well. Determinate tomato plants, on the other hand, are more stout plants that reach a predetermined height and then stop growing. These types of tomatoes are fantastic choices for small spaces or patio gardens, and produce their fruit within a shorter period of time, making them great if a gardener is looking to manufacture preserves. Tomato plants may also be labeled as being 'dwarf' or 'compact'. These plants have been bred to top out around 2-3 feet tall and can be determinate or indeterminate, depending on the specific variety. These plants are also perfect for smaller containers and patio gardens, and some are great in hanging baskets, as well.
Tomatoes are generally grouped into two categories depending on their growth habit. Indeterminate tomato plants will grow continuously until they are killed by frost or disease, and will produce fruits through the entire growing season. Most varieties will need a decent amount of space to grow - some can reach 8-10 feet tall in a single growing season - and will need the support of a trellis, tomato cage, or other structure to perform well. Determinate tomato plants, on the other hand, are more stout plants that reach a predetermined height and then stop growing. These types of tomatoes are fantastic choices for small spaces or patio gardens, and produce their fruit within a shorter period of time, making them great if a gardener is looking to manufacture preserves. Tomato plants may also be labeled as being 'dwarf' or 'compact'. These plants have been bred to top out around 2-3 feet tall and can be determinate or indeterminate, depending on the specific variety. These plants are also perfect for smaller containers and patio gardens, and some are great in hanging baskets, as well.
Hybrids and Heirlooms
Another way to categorize tomato plants is by their genetics. Hybrid plants are tomato plants that have been cross-bred to take advantage of the best qualities of each of the parent plants. These favorable traits can include fruit size, texture, flavor, and color as well as disease resistance, frost tolerance, growing habit, and increased yield. Plant breeders may intentionally cross-breed varieties, or these hybrids can be the happy result of a natural cross-pollination event. Heirloom varieties (also called Heritage varieties) are open-pollinated by definition (relying solely on the activities of pollinators for cross-breeding), and they are at least 50 years old. These tried-and-true varieties have fantastic flavors, colors, and shapes. They also offer a rich history, being passed down from generation to generation by families or within cultural groups.
Fruits with a Purpose
When choosing a tomato variety to grow in your home garden, it is of utmost importance to choose one that you will actually use. Do you prefer to eat your tomatoes as part of a salad or sandwich? How about as a snack? Will you be creating sauces or preserves? Different varieties have been developed to be perfect tomatoes for each of these purposes. Salad or snacking tomatoes are small (bite-sized) cherry or grape tomatoes and make perfect additions to salads, sandwiches, kebabs, or frittatas. These tomatoes are also great snackers, and can be eaten right off of the vine. Slicing tomatoes, by contrast, are larger and perfectly sized for adding to sandwiches. These tomatoes can be quite large or medium-sized. Sauce or paste tomatoes are developed to be meaty and have dense flesh, making them ideal candidates for use in sauces and pastes.
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Where Color and Flavor Meet
Tomato varieties have been developed to display a beautiful array of skin colors, including those that are mottled or striped with contrasting hues. Color can give hints to a tomato's flavor, though growing conditions and cultural practices can have a large effect on taste as well. The size of a tomato can also have an effect on flavor. For example, small cherry tomatoes are commonly more sweet than larger, beefsteak varieties thanks to higher concentrations of sugar. For more information on how to grow the most flavorful tomatoes, see the section below 'Caring for Tomato Plants'.
Pink tomatoes tend to be old-fashioned types with classic tomato flavor and a nice balance of acidity and sweetness.
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Red tomatoes have robust, more acidic flesh and have a nostalgic tomato flavor.
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Black or purple tomatoes have more earthy, complex flavors. Sometimes these tomatoes can be described as 'smokey' in taste.
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Orange and yellow tomatoes tend to have bright but mild flavors.
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Tomato Varieties and Cultivars
The following list of tomato cultivars is organized according to the type of fruits produced by the plant. This list does not come close to encompassing every single tomato cultivar out there, but the following varieties are some of the shining stars of the species.
Beefsteak Tomatoes
This large group of cultivated varieties of tomatoes are bred for size and flavor. Some fruits can reach over a pound in weight and can have a diameter of 6 inches or more. These fruits are known for their meaty texture and small seed cavities. These qualities give them the advantage of having a higher flesh to seed/juice ratio. The term 'beefsteak' was first used to describe tomatoes in 1869 in a seed catalogue, advertising for tomatoes "as solid and meaty as a beefsteak". Fruits tend to be pink or red (though they can really be any color), and have numerous but small seed compartments. They sometimes display ribbing on the outside of fruits. These tomatoes comprise only 1% of the commercial tomato market because they are not as easy to cultivate, but they are the most commonly grown home garden tomatoes. Beefsteak tomatoes are wonderful sliced and topped with olive oil, salt, and pepper, added to sandwiches, burgers, or salads, and are colorful additions to bruschetta dishes. They are best eaten raw.
Beefsteak tomato plants quickly reach about 6 feet tall and will produce a bountiful harvest about 85 days after planting. Plants will need sturdy cages, trellises, or stakes to remain upright; the large fruits commonly weigh plants down and cause them to grow along the ground instead of as upright plants. Space plants at least 18-36 inches apart; the ideal spacing for optimal airflow is 5 feet. These plants are not top-producers; a typical years' harvest is 5-6 large tomato fruits and a few smaller ones as the plant fades. These tomatoes can be grown either in-ground or in containers, as long as the container is large enough (at least a 20-gallon pot).
This large group of cultivated varieties of tomatoes are bred for size and flavor. Some fruits can reach over a pound in weight and can have a diameter of 6 inches or more. These fruits are known for their meaty texture and small seed cavities. These qualities give them the advantage of having a higher flesh to seed/juice ratio. The term 'beefsteak' was first used to describe tomatoes in 1869 in a seed catalogue, advertising for tomatoes "as solid and meaty as a beefsteak". Fruits tend to be pink or red (though they can really be any color), and have numerous but small seed compartments. They sometimes display ribbing on the outside of fruits. These tomatoes comprise only 1% of the commercial tomato market because they are not as easy to cultivate, but they are the most commonly grown home garden tomatoes. Beefsteak tomatoes are wonderful sliced and topped with olive oil, salt, and pepper, added to sandwiches, burgers, or salads, and are colorful additions to bruschetta dishes. They are best eaten raw.
Beefsteak tomato plants quickly reach about 6 feet tall and will produce a bountiful harvest about 85 days after planting. Plants will need sturdy cages, trellises, or stakes to remain upright; the large fruits commonly weigh plants down and cause them to grow along the ground instead of as upright plants. Space plants at least 18-36 inches apart; the ideal spacing for optimal airflow is 5 feet. These plants are not top-producers; a typical years' harvest is 5-6 large tomato fruits and a few smaller ones as the plant fades. These tomatoes can be grown either in-ground or in containers, as long as the container is large enough (at least a 20-gallon pot).
Arkansas Traveler (I)
Hailing from the Ozarks in Arkansas, this flavorful tomato resists cracking. 75+ days to maturity. 6-8 oz. fruits. |
Atlas (SD)
14-20 oz. beefsteak tomatoes on a compact, bushy plant. Sweet but acidic red fruits. 65-75 days to maturity. |
Aunt Ruby's German (I)
16 oz. fruits with neon-green flesh and a strong, sweet, fruity flavor. 85 days to maturity. |
Azoychka (I)
This variety produces yellow fruits between 5-8 oz. that have the flavor of a tart red tomato. |
Beefmaster (I)
This heavy-bearing vine produces 16-24 oz. fruits that are savory and delicious. 80 days to maturity. |
Beefsteak (I)
(Crimson Cushion, Ponderosa Red) This old-fashioned, heavy-bearing plant produces meaty fruits with a rich flavor that are up to 2 pounds each. 75 days to maturity. |
Big Beef (I)
Disease-resistant, vigorous vines produce early. Dozens of fruits per season with red flesh and a classic tomato flavor. 73 days to maturity. |
Big Pink (I)
8-10 oz. fruits with rosy pink flesh with great flavor. Perfect for burgers, sandwiches, or slicing. 75 days to maturity. |
Big Rainbow (I)
Delicious, sweet yellow fruits streaked with red. 85 days to maturity; fruits reach up to 2 pounds each. |
Black Beauty (I)
With dark purple skin and deep red flesh, these tomatoes are rich in antioxidants and have a savory, rich, earthy flavor. 80 days to maturity. |
Black Krim (I)
These plants produce deep reddish-purple fruits with award-winning rich, sweet flavor. From the Crimean Peninsula. 80 days to maturity. |
Brandy Boy (I)
This Brandywine hybrid has great disease resistance and produces large fruit with a tangy, sweet taste. 75-78 days to maturity. |
Brandywine (I)
Classic heirloom great for eating fresh, making sauces or pastes, or for roasting or canning. 8-12 oz. fruits. 80 days to maturity. |
Bucking Bronco (I)
Bold, classic tomato flavored fruits great for salads, burgers and sandwiches. Large fruits. 75-80 days to maturity. |
BushSteak (D)
This hybrid beefsteak tomato is great for container gardening. Plants reach 20-24 inches tall, and produce 8-12 oz. fruits. 65 days to maturity. |
Carbon (I)
With dark, beautiful flesh that packs an extra dose of flavor. 90 days to maturity. Produces well through hot, dry summers. |
Chef's Choice Orange (I)
Derived from the popular heirloom variety Amana Orange, these plants are disease-resistant and produce orange fruits between 12 and 16 ounces each. 75 days to maturity. |
Chef's Choice Pink (I)
Fruits between 12-16 oz. have pink flesh, and plants are disease-resistant. 75-80 days to maturity. |
Cherokee Purple (I)
Hailing from Tennessee, this heirloom variety was passed down through generations of Cherokee. Fruits are meaty, rich and sweet with dark red to purple flesh. Can produce up to 20 fruits per year. 80-90 days to maturity. |
Copia (I)
With yellow-orange flesh and green striping, this cultivar is a cross between Green Zebra and Marvel Stripe. From Napa, CA. Fruits 12-16 oz. each. 75-80 days to maturity. |
Corazon (I)
Large tomatoes with a distinct, ox-heart shape and meaty, flavorful flesh. Good all-around culinary tomato. 80-90 days to maturity. Can be grown in partial shade. 75-80 days to maturity. |
Costoluto Fiorentino (I)
Harvest-ready in 80 days, this cultivar produces heavily-ribbed fruits that weigh between 12 and 16 ounces. 75-85 days to harvest. |
Costoluto Genovese (I)
With intensely flavorful, deep red flesh. Great for eating fresh, preserving, or cooking. Ready for harvest in 75-85 days. |
Cuore di Bue (I)
1/2-pound fruits that are great for sauces. Tomatoes are ribbed, tapered towards the tops. 85 days to maturity. |
Damsel (I)
Pink-skinned fruits similar to Brandywine but with increased disease resistance. Plants are indeterminate but compact. 8-12 oz. fruits; 73 days to maturity. |
Dester (I)
Fantastic, pink-red beefsteak tomatoes with impeccable taste, great for soups or eating fresh. Fruit reaches up to a pound each. 70-80 days to maturity. |
Dr. Wyche's Yellow (I)
1-lb solid, yellow-fleshed fruits with a smooth texture and tropical, sweet taste. 80 days to harvest. |
Ed's Millennium (I)
A Bay-Area, CA tomato star, this plant produces meaty fruits on plants that can reach over 8 feet tall. Needs staking. 85-90 days to maturity. |
Ferris Wheel (I)
These vines reach 6 feet or more in height, and have large, pink 16-24 oz. fruits with juicy, mild and sweet taste. 90 days to harvest. |
German Pink (I)
Originally from Bavaria, these plants produce almost seedless, meaty fruits with full, sweet, floral flavor. 85-90 days to harvest. Great for canning, juicing, freezing, and slicing. |
German Johnson (I)
Large plants that produce up to 40 pink-red fruits per year. 76 days to harvest. Tomatoes are flavorful and the perfect size for sandwiches. |
Great White (I)
Producing fruits up to 2 lbs. each, this cultivar is considered the best of the white varieties. Flavor is tropical and fruity, and plants reach harvest in 75 days. |
Green Giant (I)
Emerald-green fruits with striped skin and sweet, juicy complex flavor. 85 days to harvest. |
Hungarian Heart (I)
Originated in Hungary. Oxheart-shaped fruits that reach over a pound each. Great for canning, sauces, and eating freshly sliced. |
Kellogg's Breakfast (I)
Orange beefsteak variety preserved by Darrell Kellogg in West Virginia, with flavorful sweet flesh. 85 days to harvest. |
Kentucky Beefsteak (I)
Hailing from the hills of Eastern Kentucky, this variety produces orange-yellow fruits with low acidity and mild flavor. |
Madame Marmande (I)
With juicy, succulent fruit, this French cultivar is commonly topped, scooped out, filled with cheese and baked. Fruits are 10 oz. each; 72 days to maturity. |
Medium Rare (I)
Pink beefsteak tomatoes with rich, smokey, meaty flavors are great for steak sandwiches and eating fresh. Fruits are 16-18 oz. each, and each plant produces 18-20 fruits per season. Ideal for northern climates. 75-85 days to maturity. |
Millionaire (I)
From the Ozarks, this variety produces large, beefy fruits with nostalgic tomato flavor. Harvest in 80 days. |
Mortgage Lifter (I)
Produces large, smooth pink-red fruits with sweet, rich taste. The original developer sold plants for $1 each, using the proceeds to pay off the mortgage of his house. 85 days to maturity and harvest. |
Mr. Stripey (I)
These huge (12-24 oz.), yellow-orange fruits with red stripes have a high sugar content. Harvest 80 days after planting. |
Orange Queen (I)
Medium-ribbed 10-oz. fruits with orange skin and flesh and a mild, sweet flavor. Great for northern areas. 75 days to maturity. |
Orange Wellington (I)
12-oz. smooth, orange fruits that are nearly seedless. Disease-tolerant plants reach 4 feet tall and are ready for harvest in 75 days. |
Patty's Yellow Striped (I)
This rare variety produces 5 to 16 oz. fruits with yellow and pink flesh and skin. Taste is sweet, juicy and mildly acidic; fruit is wonderful in salsa, sandwiches, and salads. 85 days to maturity. |
Paul Robeson (I)
Popularly grown for its smokey, rich flavor, this plant produces 6-12 ounce fruits. Good for eating fresh, made into sauces, and canning or freezing. 80-90 days to harvest. |
Pink Beefsteak (I)
Pinkish fruits with small cores and seed pockets. Great for all fresh and cooked recipes. 75-85 days to maturity. |
Pink Brandywine (I)
Large (up to 2 lbs. each) fruits with a rich, intense tomato flavor. Amish variety is a vigorous grower that needs staking or a cage. Ready for harvest in 80-100 days. |
Porterhouse (I)
Extra-large, plump tomatoes that weigh in between 2 and 4 pounds each. Smooth texture and rich, old-fashioned tomato flavor. Harvest in 80 days. |
Pruden's Purple (I)
Developed in New York, this hardy plant produces deep red fruits with dark mottling. Tolerant of cool and difficult conditions. 67 days to harvest. |
Rutgers (I)
Large, red fruits on a productive, strong, vining plant. Parent to many hybrids, these plants produce fruits with thick flesh and superior flavor. 73 days to maturity. |
Striped German (I)
Bicolor red and yellow marbled flesh and skin. 12-ounce fruits have a complex, fruity flavor and smooth texture. Harvest after 78 days. |
Stump of the World (I)
A dark pink tomato that is a bit smaller (1 lb. each) but more productive than Pink Brandywine. 80 days to maturity. |
Super Beefsteak (I)
Delicious, flavorful, meaty tomatoes with bright red color and smooth skin. 17-oz. fruits on average. 80 days to harvest. |
Sudduth Brandywine (I)
Also called Pink Brandywine, a tomato with incredibly rich flavor. Up to 2 lb. tomatoes produced; harvest after 90 days. |
Thorburn's Terra Cotta (SD)
Honey-brown, red, yellow, and dark green skin and flesh great for sauces, eating fresh, salads, and sandwiches. 75 days to harvest. |
Tomande (I)
Broad-shouldered 6-ounce red fruits with ribbed exteriors. Flavor is a classic heirloom taste. 72 days to maturity. |
Cherry Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum cerasiforme)
This group of tomato plants produces small fruits, the largest about the size of a golf ball. Fruits can either be oblong to spherical, and are typically red, but do come in other colors like orange, yellow, green, purple and black. Cherry tomatoes were originally domesticated in Mexico, reaching the area from farther down in South America. They are thought to be a natural hybrid between wild currant-type tomatoes and garden tomatoes. These tomatoes have been popular in the United States since 1919, and many varieties have been bred, showcasing just how versatile these little fruits can be. Cherry tomato plants are easy to grow, and can be raised in garden beds, containers, or set in the ground. These plants prefer slightly acidic, loamy, rich soils and do not tolerate clay well. Most cherry tomato plants are indeterminate (though some are determinate), and will grow to reach over 4 feet tall, needing some support as they increase in height.
This group of tomato plants produces small fruits, the largest about the size of a golf ball. Fruits can either be oblong to spherical, and are typically red, but do come in other colors like orange, yellow, green, purple and black. Cherry tomatoes were originally domesticated in Mexico, reaching the area from farther down in South America. They are thought to be a natural hybrid between wild currant-type tomatoes and garden tomatoes. These tomatoes have been popular in the United States since 1919, and many varieties have been bred, showcasing just how versatile these little fruits can be. Cherry tomato plants are easy to grow, and can be raised in garden beds, containers, or set in the ground. These plants prefer slightly acidic, loamy, rich soils and do not tolerate clay well. Most cherry tomato plants are indeterminate (though some are determinate), and will grow to reach over 4 feet tall, needing some support as they increase in height.
42 Day (D)
1-ounce fruits grow on this bushy plant from Mexico that does well in warm and cool weather. Tomatoes are bright red, and have very few seeds. 42 days to harvest; great in containers. |
Austin's Red Pear (I)
Large, 2-inch tomatoes with superior flavor on a very productive plant. Fruits are good fresh, in sauces and roasted. 78 days to maturity. |
Apero (I)
A hybrid between grape and cherry tomato varieties, this red-fruited shrub produces oval fruits with a very sweet, rich flavor. |
Apple Yellow (I)
Produces about 1,000 fruits per 5-foot tall plant. Tomatoes are yellow, bell-pepper shaped with a firm exterior and have a nice balance of acid and sugar. 110 days to maturity. |
Black Cherry (I)
These plants reach about 8 feet tall and produce dark red to purplish fruits that are sweet and complex in flavor and have thin, delicate skin. 64 days to maturity. |
Black Opal (I)
This dark cherry tomato produces 1-oz. fruits that are fantastic fresh or in paste. Tangy and sweet multidimensional flavor with a firm texture. 150-200 fruits per season. 70 days to maturity. |
Blondkopchen (I)
1-inch fruits are golden-yellow and have excellent, sweet taste, growing in bunches of 25-50. Plants have a high yield and fruits rarely crack, good for eating fresh, roasting and drying. 75 days to maturity. |
Blue Cream Berries (I)
This prolific, super-sweet cherry variety has yellow and purple stained, very thin skin. 75 Days to maturity. |
Candyland Red (I)
This hybrid currant-type cherry tomato grows on plants that are typically under 2 feet tall. Shrubs are sturdy and self-supporting. Fruits are dark red and sweet. 95 days to harvest. |
Chadwick Cherry (I)
Also called Camp Joy, this vigorous cultivar of cherry tomato produces round, red fruit. Tomatoes are sweet and a little tart. 80 days to harvest. |
Cherrola (I)
High-yield, vigorous cherry tomato plant with round red fruits that have a nice balance of sweetness and acidity. 100 days to harvest. |
Cherry Bomb (I)
Highly productive plant with delicious, balanced fruits that are both sweet and acidic. |
Cherry Falls (D)
This variety produces a compact, bushy plant great for hanging baskets and containers. Fruits are bright red and appear throughout the season. 45-55 days to maturity. |
Cherry Roma (I)
Also known as the Baby Roma or Mini Roma, this shrub produces mini plum-shaped tomatoes. Fruits are great fresh, in salads, dried or made into sauce. 75-80 days to maturity. |
Chocolate Cherry (I)
This variety of cherry tomato has a smokey, deep, savory flavor and is one of the best tasting cherry tomatoes. Perfect for slicing, salads, and canning. 70 days to harvest. |
Chocolate Pear (I)
High-producer over a long season. Fruits are red with various hues of green and brown. Great flavor. 70 days to maturity. |
Citrine (I)
Great snacking tomato with fantastic color. Produces reliable crops in difficult conditions. 60 days to maturity. |
Coyote (I)
Vigorous, sprawling plants that are high-producers of ivory-yellow fruits with superb flavor. Early tomato; 50 days to harvest. |
Dwarf Eagle Smiley (I)
Dwarf plants that are extremely productive. Fruits are golden-yellow and sugary. Plants reach 5 feet tall. 60 days to harvest. |
Edox (I)
Red fruits with rich, sweet flavor. These plants are great for growing indoors, and have high resistance to mold. 55 days to maturity. |
Emerald Green (I)
Yellow-green ripe 1" fruits that are sweet and tangy. 75 days to maturity. |
Favorita (I)
Deep red cherry tomato plants that can be grown outdoors, indoors, or in a greenhouse. 58 days to maturity. |
Gardener's Delight (I)
Great 1-oz.red cherry variety with superb flavor. 65 days to maturity. Plants reach about 80 inches tall. |
Gartenperle (D)
Rosy-red fruits on a plant that is great for hanging baskets and containers. |
Gold Nugget (D)
These golden fruits were originally bred at Oregon State University and is a great cherry tomato cultivar for the PNW. Early to mature; 56 days to harvest. |
Green Bee (I)
Great tomato with a long shelf life; firm textured fruits with fantastic culinary potential. 75 days to maturity. |
Green Doctors (I)
Small green cherry tomatoes that have a sweet but tart flavor. 75 days to maturity. |
Green Envy (I)
These meaty, tangy green tomatoes. 60-70 days to maturity. |
Hartman's Yellow Gooseberry (I)
These plants produce hundreds of large yellow cherry tomatoes each season. Great for salads and salsa[ 75 days to harvest. |
Indigo Rose (I)
Round fruits have red and almost black skin and deep red to purple flesh. 80 days to maturity. Vigorous plants are heavy producers. |
Isis Candy (I)
Round, 1-inch fruits are yellow-orange and red, and have a sweet, fruity flavor. Kids love these colorful snacking tomatoes. 65 days to maturity. |
Jasper (I)
These plants produce red fruits that are chewy, sweet and flavorful. Plants are extra vigorous and tall, and fruits store on the plant well. 60 days to maturity. |
Large Red Cherry (I)
Full-flavored red fruits are great for eating fresh, canning, and drying. Matures in 75-80 days. |
Maglia Rosa (SD)
Egg-shaped cherry tomatoes with rosy-red skin and flesh. Full, rich, acidic tasting fruits are produced on 2-3 foot tall plants. Great for containers and hanging baskets. |
Matt's Wild Cherry (I)
Wild tomato with fantastic flavor. Great for salsa or eating fresh. Not as productive a plant as other modern cultivars. 60 days to maturity. |
Mexico Midget (I)
This currant-type variety produces copious bright red, round fruits with classic tomato flavor. 60-85 days to harvest. |
Micro Tom (D)
This dwarf shrub (6-8 inches tall) is a great compact variety for container gardening. Fruits are flavorful. 'Micro Tina' is a hybrid of this variety with remarkably sweet fruits. 60 days to harvest. |
Midnight Snack (I)
This hybrid variety has indigo and red skin with fantastic off-the-bush edibility. Great tomato for growing in beds or containers. 65-70 days to harvest. |
Mochi (I)
Chewy, somewhat apple-shaped fruits are thin-skinned and sensitive to damage, but have great flavor. Matures in 60 days. |
Napa Rose Blush (I)
Delicious, pink-red fruits with balanced sweet but acidic flavor. 65-70 days to harvest. |
Orange Hat (D)
Extra-dwarf plant that reaches 6-9 inches tall at maturity. Perfect for 4-6 inch pots. Plants are wonderful edimentals, and can be planted in masses or in mixed containers. 70-75 days to harvest. |
Pink Bumble Bee (I)
Bright, sweet-flavored fruits that are red and yellow with mottled striping. Crack-resistant fruits ready for harvesting in 60-70 days. |
Pink Cherry (I)
These sweet pink cherry tomatoes are juicy and bursting with classic tomato flavor. Great snackers for kids. 75 days to maturity. |
Principe Borghese (D)
Famous for sun-drying, these sweet red tomatoes are great for sauces and preserving. Few seeds. 70-75 days to harvest. |
Purple Bumblebee (I)
Fruits have lime green and bronze-purple striping and complex, sweet flavor. 60-70 days to harvest. |
Purple Zebra (I)
Rich, flavorful fruits are about the size of a billiards ball with purple-streaked red and cream skin. Good disease resistance. 70 days to harvest. |
Rainbow Cherry (I)
These tomato fruits vary in color, and mature in over 65 days. |
Red Pear
These tomatoes are great for salads, making sauces, or roasted in the oven. Prolific producers that are ready for harvest in 75 days. |
Rosada (I)
Producer of large crops of classic red cherry tomatoes. Ready for harvest in 90 days. |
Rosella (I)
Fruity, smoky flavored fruits with pink-purple to yellow skin and flesh. Fruits have few seeds, and are good for cooking or using in tomato pastes. 70 days to harvest. |
Sakura (I)
Tiny, compact plant that is a prolific producer of round, red cherries with sweet tomato flavor. 55 days to maturity. |
Selke Biodynamic
These giant tomato plants produce up to 2,000 fruits in a single season. Seeds are difficult to come by. |
Snow White Cherry (I)
Full-flavored fruits are produced prolifically, and are a creamy pale yellow when ripe. Needs good support for best performance, 70-75 days to harvest. |
Sun Baby (I)
Originally cultivated in England, these golden cherry tomatoes have a good sweet-tart flavor and thin skin. 80 days to harvest. |
Suncherry Premium
Red-skinned counterpart of the Sungold tomato. Bite-sized red fruits that are super sweet. Matures in 58 days. |
Sunchocola (I)
An improvement over Chocolate Cherry, these plants produce fruits with smoky, sweet flavor. 67 days to maturity. |
Quick Question: What's the difference between a cherry tomato and a grape tomato?
These small tomatoes are both delicious, sweet and nutritious. However, there are a few important differences between the two types of tiny tomato varieties. Shape and size are the first indicator: Cherry tomatoes are round, and grape tomatoes are more ovular, and about half the size. Grape tomatoes tend to have thicker skin than cherry tomatoes, are less sweet, and have a stronger flavor than cherry varieties. Grape tomatoes tend to have meatier, more savory flavor. Cherry tomatoes are juicier and have a longer shelf life than grape tomatoes; cherry tomatoes have a two week shelf-life and grape tomatoes can last about a week. Both grape and cherry tomatoes come in a variety of beautiful colors, including yellow, orange, green, red, purple and black. Pear-shaped tomatoes, also called pear tomatoes, are a type of heirloom cherry tomato. Cherry tomato plants tend to be more productive than grape tomato plants.
These small tomatoes are both delicious, sweet and nutritious. However, there are a few important differences between the two types of tiny tomato varieties. Shape and size are the first indicator: Cherry tomatoes are round, and grape tomatoes are more ovular, and about half the size. Grape tomatoes tend to have thicker skin than cherry tomatoes, are less sweet, and have a stronger flavor than cherry varieties. Grape tomatoes tend to have meatier, more savory flavor. Cherry tomatoes are juicier and have a longer shelf life than grape tomatoes; cherry tomatoes have a two week shelf-life and grape tomatoes can last about a week. Both grape and cherry tomatoes come in a variety of beautiful colors, including yellow, orange, green, red, purple and black. Pear-shaped tomatoes, also called pear tomatoes, are a type of heirloom cherry tomato. Cherry tomato plants tend to be more productive than grape tomato plants.
Grape Tomatoes
This group of tomatoes is thought to have originated in southeast Asia, and are similar in shape to plum tomatoes though they are much smaller. Fruits are on the sweet side, and quickly rose in popularity after being introduced to the international market in the mid-1990's. Grape tomatoes have a higher sugar content than cherry tomatoes, making them wonderful finger food for adults and children alike. Although most varieties are red, there are some notable cultivars with yellow, green, mottled, and dark flesh and skin.
This group of tomatoes is thought to have originated in southeast Asia, and are similar in shape to plum tomatoes though they are much smaller. Fruits are on the sweet side, and quickly rose in popularity after being introduced to the international market in the mid-1990's. Grape tomatoes have a higher sugar content than cherry tomatoes, making them wonderful finger food for adults and children alike. Although most varieties are red, there are some notable cultivars with yellow, green, mottled, and dark flesh and skin.
Plum and Roma Tomatoes
These tomatoes are canning superstars, and are fantastic for making sauces for pizzas, pastas, and other dishes. The fruits are generally ovular or cylindrical in shape, and have a higher flesh to juice/seed content, similar to beefsteak tomatoes.
These tomatoes are canning superstars, and are fantastic for making sauces for pizzas, pastas, and other dishes. The fruits are generally ovular or cylindrical in shape, and have a higher flesh to juice/seed content, similar to beefsteak tomatoes.
Standard Tomatoes
This group of tomatoes includes round and slicing tomatoes.
This group of tomatoes includes round and slicing tomatoes.
Caring for Tomato Plants
Growing tomatoes in the home garden has been whittled down to a science, thanks to years of experience of gardeners past and present. The three main condition categories for growing the best tomatoes are soil, temperature, and sun exposure. Tomatoes prefer to grow in moist soil and to have a constant, stable supply of water. Fluctuations in water availability throughout the growing season can cause issues like fruit cracking, dryness in leaves and stems, and flower (and therefore fruit) production problems. New transplants will need to be watered a bit more, to lessen the effect of any transplant shock they may experience. Provide water daily for new plantings and for tomatoes grown in containers, and two to three times a week for established tomatoes grown in the ground. On average, tomatoes require about 1.5 inches of irrigation per week. Tomato plants will tell you if you are watering too little or too much; too little and leaves and stems will start to look brittle and dry, and fruit production will suffer. The plants may also look a bit droopy. Too much water and plants will take on yellow hues in leaves and fruits may develop cracks. The growing guide below will take you through each step in the process of planting and caring for your tomato plants.
Planting Tomatoes
The first choice every gardener has when growing tomatoes is whether to grow from seed or purchase a starter plant. Growing tomatoes from seed is relatively simple, and begins with purchasing seed or saving seed from a previous year's harvest. The main advantages of growing tomatoes from seeds are a much wider choice of tomato varieties to choose from as well as the ability to have much more control over the growing process. Growing from seed does have its drawbacks, as well, including increased time, resources and effort required to grow tomatoes. Most home gardeners will begin with a starter plant, which is an immature tomato plant from a nursery. These plants are commonly between 20 and 40 days old, giving gardeners a head-start on producing a great crop, and taking all the guesswork out of the process of sprouting seeds. There are a few things to look for in nursery tomato plants to ensure a great harvest:
The first choice every gardener has when growing tomatoes is whether to grow from seed or purchase a starter plant. Growing tomatoes from seed is relatively simple, and begins with purchasing seed or saving seed from a previous year's harvest. The main advantages of growing tomatoes from seeds are a much wider choice of tomato varieties to choose from as well as the ability to have much more control over the growing process. Growing from seed does have its drawbacks, as well, including increased time, resources and effort required to grow tomatoes. Most home gardeners will begin with a starter plant, which is an immature tomato plant from a nursery. These plants are commonly between 20 and 40 days old, giving gardeners a head-start on producing a great crop, and taking all the guesswork out of the process of sprouting seeds. There are a few things to look for in nursery tomato plants to ensure a great harvest:
Pass on Flowers and Fruit
Although this may seem counterintuitive, it is best to choose a plant with no flowers or fruit yet. When you plant your tomato, you want most of its energy going towards sending out roots and developing a strong structure. If no plants are available without these features, or you accidentally purchased a plant with flowers or fruits, pinch them off the plant before installation. |
Inspect for Pests
Keep an eye out for whiteflies and aphids in particular. These pests can damage your young tomato plant, affecting harvest times and the general health of the plant. Brush the plant to check for whiteflies; if any come off in response to agitation, pass on the plant. Aphids will be found congregating on newer foliage and buds. This practice will also ensure that you do not bring any pests home with you to take up residence on other plants in your landscape. |
Choose the Right Habit
Tomatoes are either determinate or indeterminate, meaning that they will either form a bushy shrub plant, or take on more of a vine-like appearance. Determinate plants do not commonly need staking, unless fruits begin to weigh the plant down. Indeterminate plants will need staking or a trellis on which to grow. These types also differ on the amount of space they will need. On average, determinate tomato plants should be spaced 1-2 feet apart, and indeterminate tomato plants should be spaced 3-4 feet apart. |
Old versus New
Most tomatoes sold at nurseries are either old Heirlooms or new Hybrids. Although heirlooms will produce fantastic fruits and are tried-and-true, they can actually have more disease and growing issues than newer hybrids that have been developed for their resistances to such problems. |
Size Matters
Choose a plant that is not too tall and scrawny. Ideal nursery starters are stout and have strong main stems. Select a plant that is between 6 and 12 inches tall for best results. These plants are still sending most of their energy into forming a strong root system, and are great candidates for transplanting into the garden. The stem should be at least the diameter of a standard pencil. |
Rough and Tumble
At many nurseries, there will be plants that are past their prime. These plants are commonly offered at a discount. They have been in their pots for a bit too long, or maybe they were under or overwatered. Although the price drop may be tempting to take advantage of, these plants usually have enough problems already that transplanting them will kill them. |
Pick a Pretty One
Choose a plant that is free of signs of disease or decline. Inspect the plant's foliage for holes and dark spots. These clues can indicate the presence of pests or disease. Foliage should be full and free of yellowing and scorched areas from sunburn or over-fertilization. |
Stem Strength
The tomato plant that you choose should have a strong central stem that does not droop. The stem should be green in color and free of blemishes and brown areas. All of these clues point to a tomato plant with a weak stem or fungus issues. |
Timing
Purchasing the correct plant will mean nothing if it is done at the wrong time. Wait until the last frost of the year passes before planting, and make sure that your purchased starter does not just sit around in its nursery pot if you buy it early. Planting too late in the season, on the other hand, can seriously lessen harvest for the year. The perfect time to plant tomatoes is late spring (after the last frost has passed). |
Once you've chosen your nursery tomato plant or grown your own seedling, the next step in the process is to plant it in its forever home in the ground (or in a container). Ensure that the soil is about 60 degrees Fahrenheit; this is the ideal soil temperature for planting tomatoes, and will yield the best results. The spot they are planted should receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sun each day. Make sure you are also giving your tomato plant enough space; if spacing rules are not followed, this can lead to airflow issues, which may cause plants to develop fungal diseases. On average, determinate tomato plants will need about 1-2 feet of space, and indeterminate tomato plants will require 3-4 feet of space. When timing and spacing are figured out, the next step is to prepare your soil.
Tomatoes prefer soil that is well-draining and water-retentive. Growing great tomatoes requires constant soil moisture, but it is also necessary for roots to not become waterlogged. If your backyard or container soil is hard, dry, and doesn't have a spongy texture, it is essential to either replace or amend it. Another great option is building up a raised planter bed and filling it with brand new planting mix. Tomatoes grown in containers will do well with a standard potting soil mix. The ideal soil pH for tomatoes (the range in which they will most easily uptake the nutrients they need) is between 6.2 and 6.8, on the acidic side of neutral.
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Mixing in 3-4 inches of compost to the soil before planting will ensure that tomatoes will have a constant supply of nutrients during the growing season, and will improve soil structure as well. After prepping your soil, the next step is to plant your tomato. The best time to transplant a tomato seedling into its new home is on a cloudy, cool day. If there are no days like this in the forecast, opt for planting in the evening. The goal is to plant your tomato during a time when it will not undergo shock from heat or intense sunlight as it is acclimating to its new surroundings. When the time comes, dig a hole in your soil about as wide, and deep enough to accommodate burying 2/3 of your starter in the soil. Cut or carefully pinch off all leaves on the lower 2/3 of your plant, and gently remove it from its container. If the plant is root-bound (roots are taking up most of the container space), make sure to break up the dense root ball before planting. Then, plant your tomato in the ground, burying the lower 2/3 in the soil, and fill in soil around it, being careful not to pack the soil down too much. Water in your plant.
After planting, if you have chosen an indeterminate type tomato or a determinate type that needs support, you'll want to install a trellis, tomato cage, stake, or other structure right after planting. Installing these supports will be much more difficult when the plant is mature. Tomato supports can be made of any material; the main goal is to prevent the plant from toppling over as it grows and begins to produce fruit. Use stretchy material, like green gardening tape, to attach larger stems and branches to the structure if needed. Take note of where these ties are; they will need to be checked periodically as the plant grows to ensure they are not choking it, and more ties will need to be added as the plant increases in size.
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Once your tomatoes are in the ground and properly supported, it is time to think about irrigation. Having an automatic watering system can take a lot of the guesswork out of providing water for tomatoes, and ensures that they will receive a constant supply. This even watering schedule will lessen problems like over- or under-watering, fruit cracking, fungal issues, and will encourage strong, uniform root growth. If you will be hand-watering, create a solid schedule for watering that will be easy for you to stick to every week. Laying down a 2-inch layer of mulch over the soil can increase moisture retention, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weed growth, all of which will help you have a healthy tomato harvest.
Harvesting and Storing Tomatoes
Propagation
Problems and Pests
Tomato plants are susceptible to the following issues and pests:
- Aphids
- Spider Mites
- Alternaria Stem Canker
- Fusarium Wilt
- Nemotodes
- Tobacco Mosaic Virus
- Gray Leaf Spot
- Verticillium Wilt
Gallery
Videos
A video all about growing camellias successfully
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Propagating camellias
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page
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