Stephanotis
( steff - an - OH - tiss )
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At-A-Glance InformationThis genus includes woody vining plants with evergreen foliage that is normally glossy and green. Species are commonly known as Madagascar Jasmine or Bridal Flower and are native to Madagascar, tropical and southern Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, and regions spanning from southern China to tropical Asia. Flowers produced by these plants are waxy, tubular and very fragrant, blooming in summertime. Stems generally reach about 10 feet long but can stretch a bit longer if given adequate space. Use these vines in the garden as vertical accents on support structures, privacy screening, to decorate fences and walls, as an espalier, or simply in a container on patios or walkways. These vines when unsupported can also be planted on sloped areas to help with erosion, and are beautiful spilling over retaining walls.
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Stephanotis Species and Varietals
The genus Stephanotis includes 15 species, and is a member of the plant family Apocynaceae. The vines in this genus are closely related to plants in Marsdenia (Milk Vine), Hoya (Wax Plant) and Asclepias (Milkweed). Despite their common names, these plants are not related to true Jasmine. The best growing zones for Stephanotis vines are generally USDA hardiness zones 10-12, though this varies somewhat depending on the species cultivated. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Stephanotis floribunda (Madagascar Jasmine, Waxflower, Hawaiian Wedding Flower, Bridal Wreath, Chaplet Flower, Bride's Flower, Bridal Bouquet, Clustered Wax Flower, Waxflower) This species is sparsely branched and can reach up to 20 feet long at maturity. Leaves are dark green and glossy, and flowers are stark white and fragrant. Blooms pop in summertime. This species is native to Madagascar and is suited for USDA zones 10-13. Cultivars include 'Isabella' (larger leaves with a vigorous growth habit bred for the cut flower industry), 'Puanani' (cultivated for the floral industry), and 'Variegata' (with attractive leaves edged and splashed with white, cream, yellow, and silver). |
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Stephanotis volubilis (Dreaga volubilis, Wattakaka volubilis) (Sneeze Wort, Cotton Milk Plant, Green Milkweed Climber, Green Wax Flower, Nán Shān Téng, 南山藤, Akar Pulut, Nakchikni, نکچھکنی) This species is native to northeastern Pakistan through China and south to Java. Flowers are small, protected by green to yellowish bracts that open to reveal the bloom. This species is suited for USDA hardiness zones 10-11. |
Caring for stephanotis
Keep these plants in a stable location; sudden drafts, temperature swings, relocation or incorrect moisture levels can cause plants to drop their buds before they open. These vines should ideally be situated in a space that receives bright morning sun and protective afternoon shade to prevent leaf scorch. About 4 to 6 hours of light each day will result in the best flower production and overall growth. They prefer well-draining soil with a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5. If local soils are compacted, do not drain well, or are particularly poor in nutrients, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic matter or compost before installing. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plant after installation, ensuring that mulch stays at least a few inches away from the stems. This will increase soil moisture retention, suppress weed growth, and maintain a constant soil temperature.
Keep the soil moist while plants establish a strong root system. Mature plants appreciate consistently moist soil, with a major reduction in irrigation during dormancy over the cool months of the year. Foliage can be trimmed back at any time during the growing season to control growth and remove dead, damaged and diseased stems and leaves. Doing so will keep the plant at its healthiest form. Pinch young stems back to encourage a bushy habit to form. Without pruning, these plants tend to grow as one single long stem. Fertilize plants yearly for the best show of blooms with a dressing of a few inches of organic compost applied around the base of the vine. Work the compost into the soil a bit, and then replace the mulch around the base. These plants can live for 10 to 20 years or more in the garden before needing to be replaced.
Caring for Stephanotis in Containers
Stephanotis vines are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Stephanotis vines grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Growing Stephanotis Indoors
As indoor specimens, these plants prefer to be situated in a warm, humid location with bright but indirect light. Stephanotis will do well with temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, and like a humidity of 40-80%. Mist plants regularly to provide adequate humidity for best overall performance. The more light these plants receive, the more they will bloom. If they are not receiving enough light, for example if they are grown in medium indirect light, they will tend to drop foliage and buds and not flower. Increase available light using grow lamps if needed. Keep the soil moist but not wet. More frequent waterings are needed in warmer, drier months and during the active flowering period. During wintertime, these plants go somewhat dormant, and will need much less water. Never leave roots sitting in water, as this will cause the plant to develop root rot. Prune plants with sanitized scissors or clippers, removing up to 1/3 the length of each vine in early springtime. Check the bottom of pot regularly to determine if roots are attempting to grow out through the bottom drainage holes. Once roots emerge, it is time to pot up. If your plant has become root-bound or if there are sections of roots that have died since it was last repotted, this is a good time to break up those roots or trim some off.
Harvesting Stephanotis
Stephanotis vines are cultivated for their use in the cut flower industry; the species most commonly cultivated for this purpose is Stephanotis floribunda and its cultivars 'Isabella' and 'Puanani'. These flowers are available typically from April through October, and are typically commercially sold stemless, arriving as individual waxy blossoms packed in boxes. The best time to harvest Stephanotis flowers is in the early morning when they are fully hydrated (the day after a good irrigation event), after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Select nearly open buds or recently opened flowers that break of easily from clusters. Leave any buds that resist breaking off for the next day. Touch petals as little as possible, as oils from fingers and rough handling can turn them brown and bruise them easily. Drop the flowers into a bucket of cool water for 30 minutes to an hour. Then, remove them and store them in a sealed container with a damp paper towel at the bottom to maintain high humidity. Keep them cool and isolated (a refrigerator does well), making sure they are stored away from ripening fruits which can emit ethylene gas and ruin the blooms. To design with Stephanotis flowers, florist wire is required as they are stemless. The cut blooms will last 3-5 days if properly stored.
Keep the soil moist while plants establish a strong root system. Mature plants appreciate consistently moist soil, with a major reduction in irrigation during dormancy over the cool months of the year. Foliage can be trimmed back at any time during the growing season to control growth and remove dead, damaged and diseased stems and leaves. Doing so will keep the plant at its healthiest form. Pinch young stems back to encourage a bushy habit to form. Without pruning, these plants tend to grow as one single long stem. Fertilize plants yearly for the best show of blooms with a dressing of a few inches of organic compost applied around the base of the vine. Work the compost into the soil a bit, and then replace the mulch around the base. These plants can live for 10 to 20 years or more in the garden before needing to be replaced.
Caring for Stephanotis in Containers
Stephanotis vines are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Stephanotis vines grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Growing Stephanotis Indoors
As indoor specimens, these plants prefer to be situated in a warm, humid location with bright but indirect light. Stephanotis will do well with temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, and like a humidity of 40-80%. Mist plants regularly to provide adequate humidity for best overall performance. The more light these plants receive, the more they will bloom. If they are not receiving enough light, for example if they are grown in medium indirect light, they will tend to drop foliage and buds and not flower. Increase available light using grow lamps if needed. Keep the soil moist but not wet. More frequent waterings are needed in warmer, drier months and during the active flowering period. During wintertime, these plants go somewhat dormant, and will need much less water. Never leave roots sitting in water, as this will cause the plant to develop root rot. Prune plants with sanitized scissors or clippers, removing up to 1/3 the length of each vine in early springtime. Check the bottom of pot regularly to determine if roots are attempting to grow out through the bottom drainage holes. Once roots emerge, it is time to pot up. If your plant has become root-bound or if there are sections of roots that have died since it was last repotted, this is a good time to break up those roots or trim some off.
Harvesting Stephanotis
Stephanotis vines are cultivated for their use in the cut flower industry; the species most commonly cultivated for this purpose is Stephanotis floribunda and its cultivars 'Isabella' and 'Puanani'. These flowers are available typically from April through October, and are typically commercially sold stemless, arriving as individual waxy blossoms packed in boxes. The best time to harvest Stephanotis flowers is in the early morning when they are fully hydrated (the day after a good irrigation event), after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Select nearly open buds or recently opened flowers that break of easily from clusters. Leave any buds that resist breaking off for the next day. Touch petals as little as possible, as oils from fingers and rough handling can turn them brown and bruise them easily. Drop the flowers into a bucket of cool water for 30 minutes to an hour. Then, remove them and store them in a sealed container with a damp paper towel at the bottom to maintain high humidity. Keep them cool and isolated (a refrigerator does well), making sure they are stored away from ripening fruits which can emit ethylene gas and ruin the blooms. To design with Stephanotis flowers, florist wire is required as they are stemless. The cut blooms will last 3-5 days if properly stored.
Propagation
Stephanotis plants are most easily propagated through taking stem cuttings of an existing plant and rooting them in spring or early summertime. To propagate your Madagascar Jasmine, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Stephanotis by Cutting
Propagating Stephanotis by Cutting
- Take a 3-node soft stem cutting from the end of a non-blooming stem, cutting at a 45 degree angle with sanitized shears or scissors.
- Remove all but the top two to three leaves from the cutting and then dip the cut end into rooting hormone and tap to remove excess powder.
- Place the cutting in your prepared propagation container, and water, ensuring that good drainage is occurring. Continue to provide water regularly to these new cuttings, and in about 2 weeks roots should be forming at the base of the cutting.
- Resume regular care instructions (see above).
Problems and Pests
Stephanotis vines are susceptible to the following issues and pests:
- Mealybugs
- Scale Insects
- Spider Mites
- Aphids
- Root Rot
- Sooty Mold
- Bud and Flower Drop
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