Tabebuia

tabebuia

( tah - beh - BOO - yuh )

At-A-Glance Information

This genus of deciduous, evergreen, and semi-evergreen trees and large shrubs are showy natives of the tropical and subtropical Americas spanning from Mexico and the Caribbean down through Argentina and are commonly called Trumpet Trees. They do best in full sun and need regular to little water to perform well in the garden. Trees can reach up to between 10 and 50 feet tall depending on the species and growing conditions. Leaves are green and flower color can be pink, white or yellow. They will draw pollinators like bees, butterflies, and birds to the garden. Use these trees as specimens or focal points in the landscape, as street or urban trees, as shade or park trees, or in groves as a drought-tolerant 'Cherry Blossom'-like seasonal display.

tabebuia Species and Varietals

The genus Tabebuia is a member of the plant family Bignoniaceae and includes about 70 species. In recent years, the genus has been divided and shuffled around a few times, with removed species being placed in genera Roseodendron and Hydroanthus. The plants in this genus are related to those in Pyrostegia (Flame Vine), Catalpa (Catawba), Chilopsis (Desert Willow), Bignonia (Crossvine), Tecoma (Trumpet Vine), Podranea (Pink Trumpet Vine), Jacaranda (Fern Tree), Campsis (Trumpet Creeper) and Incarvillea (Hardy Gloxinia). Trumpet Tree grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9b-11 or Sunset growing zones 15, 18, 20-24, H1 and H2, though this varies somewhat depending on the species. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.

Tabebuia aurea (Caribbean Trumpet Tree, Silver Trumpet Tree, Tree of Gold, Ipê-Amarelo, Caraibeira, Craibeira, Paratudo, Lapacho Amarillo, Ceibo Amarillo, Paratodo, Kira'y, Alcornoque, Tajibillo, Tajibo)
These small, dry-season deciduous trees reach about 26 feet tall when mature. Leaves are green on top, and silvery underneath, and flowers are bright yellow to golden in color, blooming in summertime. This species is suited for USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11 and is native to Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Suriname, Bolivia, and Peru. The plant gets its common name Portodo ('for everything') due to its extensive traditional use in folk medicine.

Tabebuia heterophylla (Pink Tecoma, Pink Trumpet Tree, Roble Blanco, Pink Manjac, White Cedar, Whitewood Pink Poui)
This evergreen to semi-evergreen species reaches 40 feet tall and about half as wide and can be grown as a large shrub. Flower color ranges from pink-purple to white, and blooms are most profuse in springtime. It is commonly used as a street tree, and is also grown as an ornamental shade tree near decks and patios. Pink Tecoma grows well in USDA hardiness zones 9-11. This species is considered invasive in Hawai'i, Guam, and Florida.

Tabebuia rosea (Roble de Sabana, Maquilishuat, Maculis, Macuiliz, Amapa Rosa, Amapa, Palo de Rosa, Rose Stick, Rosewood, Tekoma, Pink Poui, Rosy Trumpet Tree, Savannah Oak, Malaysia Sakura, Singapore's Sakura, Apamate, Pink Tecoma, Matilisguate, Macualiso, Macuelizo, Roble de Guayaquil, Tino, Guayacán Rosado)
These neotropical trees are native to Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Venezuela and Ecuador. At maturity they can reach up to 98 feet tall. This species is the national tree of El Salvador. Bark is grey to dark brown, and flowering occurs during dry periods of the year. This species is considered invasive in Hawaii.

Tabebuia roseo-alba (White Ipê, Ipê-Branco, Lapacho Blanco, White Trumpet Tree, Tajibo Blanco, Guayacán Blanco)
This species is native to Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, Argentina and Paraguay, where it is frequently used as an ornamental and as a honey plant. Trees typically reach 30 feet tall or more, and are upright with open crowns. In pots, these trees can reach up to 10 to 20 feet tall. Bark is grey and furrowed in older trees. These are considered great pioneer trees, and are hardy and easy to grow in any well-draining soil. They have no serious pest or disease problems. White Ipê is suited for USDA hardiness zones 9-11.

Caring for tabebuia

Plant Tabebuia trees or shrubs in a space in the landscape that receives full sun; ideally, they appreciate between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day for the best blooms. Install these plants between 10 to 12 feet apart for best airflow (larger species may need up to 30 to 40 feet), and at least 8 to 10 feet or more back from walks and driveways to avoid branch and root interference. Ensure that soil is well-draining, rich in nutrients, and has a pH of between 5.5 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. At maturity, Tabebuia plants are considered drought-tolerant, able to get by on rainwater for much of the year with supplemental waterings during extended periods of drought. Allow soil to completely dry out between waterings.

Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Pruning is simple; remove any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage at any time during the growing season. Each year in wintertime, cut back by a third to encourage a more bushy habit and more profuse blooms. If creating a more of a tree from these somewhat shrubby plants, begin pruning when they are young to encourage a single trunk to form. If a shrub form is desired, pinch back branches in springtime to encourage a bushier and stronger branching habit. These plants are hardy down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit; younger trees may need to be protected from hard frosts. Tabebuia shrubs and trees are considered long-lived perennials, persisting for between 50 and 150 years in the landscape before needing to be replaced. Most species will reach their full size in between 10 and 20 years.

Caring for Tabebuia in Containers
Tabebuia shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. At maturity, these trees will need large pots measuring at least 24 to 36 inches in diameter (a 15 to 30 gallon size) to support their root system and balance their mature height. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Tabebuia plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground, but are still considered relatively drought-tolerant as long as they are in a large enough container. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.

Propagation

Tabebuia trees and shrubs can be propagated either by using semi-hardwood cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. To propagate your Trumpet Tree, follow the instructions below:

Propagating Tabebuia by Cutting

Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
In late summer, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth on your propagated Chilopsis, you'll know you have roots.
Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.

Propagating Tabebuia by Seed

Keep in mind that the Tabebuia plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant, especially if you are working with a hybrid variety. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. The best potting medium for seed germination is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
Harvest your seeds in late summer or early fall, when the seed pods have dried and turned brown. The seed pods on these plants are pretty easy to spot, they're large and dangle from the branches, left behind after flowers have faded. Just before they have dried out and begun to split open, cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will begin to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination occurs within 10 to 21 days from sowing.
Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.

Tabebuia trees and shrubs produce cigar-shaped pods after flowers fade that can reach up to a foot long. Each pod contains dozens to hundreds of seeds.

Tabebuia seeds are flat, thin, light brown and have transparent wings to help them catch the wind.

Problems and Pests

Certain species of Tabebuia are considered invasive in some regions; see the species descriptions above for more information. Check with local authorities before planting. Tabebuia trees and shrubs are generally resilient to serious problems, but can be susceptible to developing issues with the following pests and diseases in the landscape: