Tibouchina
( tee - boo - CHEE - nuh )
At-A-Glance InformationThis genus of flowering shrubs, subshrubs and small trees needs partial shade in the warmest climates and regular water for best performance. They are native to Mexico, the Caribbean and South America and have showy purple flowers that bloom at the end of branches and velvety green leaves. These beautiful plants are commonly called Princess Flower, Glory Bush, or Glory Tree. Shrubs in some species can be trained into small trees.
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Tibouchina Species and Varietals
The genus Tibouchina includes about 40 species and is a member of the plant family Melastomataceae. The genus name is adapted from the Guianan indigenous name for a species in the genus. Tibouchina was established as a genus by Aublet in 1775 in his publication Flora of French Guiana, which described a single species: Tibouchina aspera. Princess Flower growing zones vary depending on the species. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
Tibouchina urvilleana (Tibouchina semidecandra) (Princess Flower) This species is best in zones 14-16, 17, 21-24, H1 and H2, and reaches 5-18 feet tall and 3-10 feet wide quickly. Branch tips, buds, and new growth is shaded orange due to hairs. Leaves are green and often edged in red. Older leaves will turn colors in winter, and flowers are a brilliant royal purple, blooming in late spring through the winter months. Prune lightly and feed after each abloom cycle. |
Caring for and pruning tibouchina shrubs
Princess Flower thrives in full sunlight, and do well with at least 6 hours of direct sun each day. In warmer climates, these shrubs may need some protection from late afternoon heat, as they will burn in the intense sun and high temperatures. Soil should be well-draining and amended before planting so that it has plenty of organic matter. These shrubs prefer a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5 (acidic to neutral). If soil is not well-draining, consider amending the planting site with perlite or a similar product to increase pore space. These shrubs do not do well with wet feet. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, watering deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry. During hot, dry periods of the year, more water may be required. Water can be reduced in the wintertime when the plant is in its dormant stage. Mulch around the base of the shrub or tree after planting to keep roots cool, assist in moisture retention, and suppress weed growth.
Prune as needed; after flowers have faded, lightly trim to encourage new growth. Pinch back young growth to induce branching and a more bushy habit if the plant gets leggy; prune out damaged or dead branches before new growth begins. Avoid any heavy prunings, as these plants will flower only on new wood and removing too much of it can greatly affect the year's flower production. Fertilize these plants yearly with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer at the beginning of springtime to support the year's new growth and flowering. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this will encourage foliage growth over flower production.
Prune as needed; after flowers have faded, lightly trim to encourage new growth. Pinch back young growth to induce branching and a more bushy habit if the plant gets leggy; prune out damaged or dead branches before new growth begins. Avoid any heavy prunings, as these plants will flower only on new wood and removing too much of it can greatly affect the year's flower production. Fertilize these plants yearly with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer at the beginning of springtime to support the year's new growth and flowering. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this will encourage foliage growth over flower production.
Propagation
Tibouchina can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Tibouchina by Cutting
Propagating Tibouchina by Seed
Propagating Tibouchina by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch softwood portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Tibouchina by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- Harvest your seeds. The seed pods on these plants are pretty easy to spot, they're large and dangle from the branches, left behind after flowers have faded. Once they have dried out and begun to split open, you can harvest the seeds inside. Cut them off of the plant, placing them in a paper bag. Harvest as many as you can, and place the paper bag in a dry, cool, dark area. They will begin to split open and release the seeds contained inside. Once they have been released, take them out of the bag and put them in a container so you can work with them.
- Water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes 4-8 weeks from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Seeds of these shrubs are contained inside of woody capsules, left behind on branches after flowers have been pollinated and faded.
Problems and Pests
Tibouchina shrubs are susceptible to the following pests and diseases:
- Geranium (Tobacco) Budworm
- Nemotodes
- Aphids
- Scale Insects
- Spider Mites
Gallery
Videos
How to grow Tibouchina.
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Propagating camellias
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How to Care for Tibouchina.
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How to propagate Tibouchina from cuttings.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 630, Tibouchina
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