Camellia
( kah - MEE - lee - uh )
At-A-Glance Information
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Camellia shrubs are typically loaded with white, pink, or red flowers (or a combination of these colors) during the cooler months of the year, making them a great centerpiece to consider for your garden in the wintertime. These shrubs love shaded areas, and can grow well in pots as well, making them a plant that's really ready for anything. Most species and varieties are unscented. Grow Camellias as privacy screens, as specimens, in containers on patios, or simply as color in mixed beds and borders.
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Camellia Species and Varietals
There are plenty of unique varieties of Camellia to choose from, most hailing from Southern and Eastern Asia. Camellia shrubs grow best in zones 4-9, 12, and 14-24. To find out whether Camellia will grow well in your garden, identify your zone. To narrow down your search for the perfect Camellia for your yard, first consider choosing between the various flower forms on these plants:
Single
Pictured: C. japonica 'Spring's Promise' |
Semidouble
Pictured: C. hiemalis 'Shishi-Gashira' |
Peony
Pictured: C. japonica 'Extravaganza' |
Anemone
Pictured: C. japonica 'Elegans' |
Formal Double
Pictured: C. japonica 'Pearl Maxwell' |
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Camellia chrysantha (Golden Camellia) This group of Camellia can grow vigorously to a height of between 6 and 16 feet and a width of between 10 and 12 feet. These shrubs have an open habit with glossy leaves and 2 to 2.5-inch yellow-golden flowers. |
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Camellia granthamiana This varietal of Camellia is considered rare. It flowers in the fall, showing its 'rabbit ear' petals arranged around a center of light yellow stamens. This varietal needs excellent drainage to grow to its full potential. |
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Camellia hiemalis This species of Camellia blooms for a longer period than others, and also has the added benefit of heavier-textured flowers. Varietals include 'Chansonette' (pictured), a vigorous grower which gets to about 6 feet tall and 8 feet wide, and boasts large, bright-pink, formal double flowers. |
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Camellia japonica
This species grows best in zones 4-9, 12, 14-24, and H1. It can grow to be about 6 to 12 feet tall and just as wide. There are many varieties of this species, and they vary considerably in size, shape, color and habit. Below is a listing of a few of the most popular varietals
This species grows best in zones 4-9, 12, 14-24, and H1. It can grow to be about 6 to 12 feet tall and just as wide. There are many varieties of this species, and they vary considerably in size, shape, color and habit. Below is a listing of a few of the most popular varietals
'Alba Pena'
This varietal blooms early with stark white double blooms. The foliage fills out slowly, and the 'early bloom' perk can be a drawback in some rainy, cold areas where the blooms need to then be protected from the weather. |
'April Remembered'
This varietal blooms from early to late season, with blush-colored semi-double flowers. The shrub itself is fast-growing, and is a hardy varietal to plant. |
'Carter's Sunburst'
Early to late bloomer, semi-double, peony form, and formal double blooms. Petals are dark pink to light pink in color, and are usually variegated. This is a medium-size, compact variety. |
'Debutante'
This beautiful varietal blooms in early to mid- season. This plant flowers profusely, with light-pink peony-form flowers. Its growth is characterized as vigorous and upright, and is a type of Camellia that can stand some sun. |
'Glen 40' ('Coquettii')
If you're searching for the perfect Camellia for future corsage-making, look no further! This mid- to late-season bloomer has large, deep red formal double flowers. Growth is compact and upright. Good for containers, this plant is very hardy, and elegant even when not in bloom. |
'Herme' ('Jordan's Pride')
This variety blooms in mid-season with medium-large, pink semi-double flowers irregularly bordered in white and streaked with a deeper pink color. Flowers on the same plant can also be solid pink on certain branches. This variety is free-blooming and dependable. |
'Nuccio's Pearl'
This midseason bloomer has medium sized, full formal double blooms that are mostly white with deep pink outer petals. |
'Swan Lake'
This variety has very large, beautiful white flowers with formal double to peony form. It blooms midseason to late season and has an upright, vigorous growth. |
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Camellia lutchuensis This shrub can grow to be about 10 feet tall and 12 feet wide, and has tiny leaves and profuse tiny white flowers. This varietal has a very pleasant, strong fragrance. Can be trained as an espalier easily, as it has long, bendable branches. |
Camellia reticulata
This species has some of the most showy, vibrant, memorable flowers, though the plants themselves can be characterized as lanky and ungraceful. Habits vary, but many start out as gaunt and open shrubs that eventually mature into very large plants. Some can reach 35 to 50 feet tall. Leaves are usually dull green and leathery. Intolerant of heavy pruning; if you choose to plant one of these specimens in your garden, plan to let it run the show and don't try to force a shape. Blooms will occur in January through May in California. Check out some of the varietals of Camellia reticulata below:
This species has some of the most showy, vibrant, memorable flowers, though the plants themselves can be characterized as lanky and ungraceful. Habits vary, but many start out as gaunt and open shrubs that eventually mature into very large plants. Some can reach 35 to 50 feet tall. Leaves are usually dull green and leathery. Intolerant of heavy pruning; if you choose to plant one of these specimens in your garden, plan to let it run the show and don't try to force a shape. Blooms will occur in January through May in California. Check out some of the varietals of Camellia reticulata below:
'Mandalay Queen'
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'Buddha'
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'Mouchang'
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Camellia saluenensis A 10 to 15 -foot shrub variety of dense, leafy foliage. Flowers pop up in early spring are bell-shaped and small, and vary in color from white to a fairly deep pink. |
Camellia sasanqua
A large group of varietals which are large-leaved and widely used for many different purposes including as groundcovers, espaliers, informal hedges, screening and as container plants. Heavy producers of flowers in autumn and early winter and are short-lived and rather 'flimsy'. Some are fragrant. Most varietals can tolerate sun and actually seem to like wintertime sunshine. Some can also thrive in year-round sun if they are rooted in the right soil and receive regular waterings. Check out some of the varietals of Camellia sasanqua below:
A large group of varietals which are large-leaved and widely used for many different purposes including as groundcovers, espaliers, informal hedges, screening and as container plants. Heavy producers of flowers in autumn and early winter and are short-lived and rather 'flimsy'. Some are fragrant. Most varietals can tolerate sun and actually seem to like wintertime sunshine. Some can also thrive in year-round sun if they are rooted in the right soil and receive regular waterings. Check out some of the varietals of Camellia sasanqua below:
'Apple Blossom'
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'Bonanza'
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'Jean May'
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'Mine-No-Yuki'
('White Doves') |
'Setsugekka'
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'Yuletide'
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Camellia sinensis (Thea sinensis) This is also commonly called the Tea Plant, and grows as a dense round shrub up to 15 feet tall and just as wide. Leaves are leathery, dark green and up to five inches long. Fragrant, white flowers appear in the fall. This bush takes well to pruning activities, and can be trimmed to be a hedge. |
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Hybrid Camellias
These varietals are crosses between two or more species. Most have medium-sized flowers.
'Coral Delight'
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'Donation'
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'Frank Houser'
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'Taylor's Perfection'
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'Yume'
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'High Fragrance'
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'Freedom Bell'
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'Fairy Blush'
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Caring for and pruning camellia shrubs
Camellias grow (and will bloom more profusely) if protected from strong sun. When mature, they can tolerate sun better. For newly planted Camellias, ensure they're planted in partial shade in moist, well-drained soil. These shrubs should also be in high organic-content soil, so make sure to amend your existing soil before you plant your new shrub. They do not like to be planted too deep, so when you plant make sure that you leave roots 1-2 inches above the surrounding grade, and gently slope soil up to the sides of the exposed root ball, without covering the roots themselves. Mulch around the new planting, with a light layer of mulch over the roots. Water well after planting. To grow Camellias in containers, use a soil that includes 50% or higher in organic material. Gallon size plants should be in 14 inch wide planters and 5 gallon plants should be in 16-18 inch containers. Use the same planting method as you would in the ground, elevated with the roots uncovered, except for a bit of mulch.
Plants over 3 years old are considered established and will have vigorous growth that provides shade to their own roots. These mature plants can get by with little supplemental water and little pruning. Dead or weak wood can be pruned away, and plants should be thinned out when growth becomes to dense for its natural habit. Make pruning cuts just above scars right after a bloom; doing this should force blooms in 3-4 dormant surrounding buds. Camellias should be allowed to maintain their natural habit, they don't usually do well if forced into an unnatural shape.
If your plant seems sick, under no circumstances should you fertilize, so make sure to check for any issues beforehand. Camellias like acidic soil, similar to Azaleas. The Ph range of your soil should be maintained to be between 5.5-6.5. Camellias should be fertilized twice a year with an organic fertilizer if possible, once in early March and again in early May. If you find your soil needs one extra fertilization a year because you're having trouble maintaining Ph, you can apply one more in early July. Follow the instructions on the container for best results. Water thoroughly after application of fertilizer, as with any soil amendment.
Plants over 3 years old are considered established and will have vigorous growth that provides shade to their own roots. These mature plants can get by with little supplemental water and little pruning. Dead or weak wood can be pruned away, and plants should be thinned out when growth becomes to dense for its natural habit. Make pruning cuts just above scars right after a bloom; doing this should force blooms in 3-4 dormant surrounding buds. Camellias should be allowed to maintain their natural habit, they don't usually do well if forced into an unnatural shape.
If your plant seems sick, under no circumstances should you fertilize, so make sure to check for any issues beforehand. Camellias like acidic soil, similar to Azaleas. The Ph range of your soil should be maintained to be between 5.5-6.5. Camellias should be fertilized twice a year with an organic fertilizer if possible, once in early March and again in early May. If you find your soil needs one extra fertilization a year because you're having trouble maintaining Ph, you can apply one more in early July. Follow the instructions on the container for best results. Water thoroughly after application of fertilizer, as with any soil amendment.
Propagation
Camellias can be propagated in a few ways: from seed, from a cutting, from volunteer plants, through grafting, and through layering or air layering. The type of propagation you choose will depend on the type of plant you're looking to get out of the process. We'll go over the three easiest ways to propagate your camellia here: from seed, from cutting and through volunteer plants.
By Volunteer
When camellias are done flowering, and if they have been fertilized, their seeds will drop to the ground and create another plant without any added effort. Volunteers will not necessarily exactly resemble the parent plant, as genetic variation exists in seeds. These new plants can be transplanted and grown into mature plants within three years. For this option, you'll need a shovel (or a fork, depending on how large your plant is), a container that is about twice the size of the existing root system, perlite or coarse silica sand, garden shears, and a water source. Here's how to proceed:
By Seed
Again, camellias that are grown by seed will not necessarily match the parent plant that they come from. If you'd like an identical plant, it would be best to choose a different propagation method. To propagate a camellia by seed, you'll need
By Cutting
A third common way of propagating camellia is by cutting. This is the fastest way to propagate a camellia, and should be done in early spring, when new growth starts to appear on the parent plant. You will need a 4-6 inch deep container, potting soil, perlite or coarse silica sand, clean, sharp garden shears, rooting hormone powder, a water mister, a greenhouse or plastic bag and rubber band, and about four 8-10 inch containers. To try it yourself, follow the instructions below:
By Volunteer
When camellias are done flowering, and if they have been fertilized, their seeds will drop to the ground and create another plant without any added effort. Volunteers will not necessarily exactly resemble the parent plant, as genetic variation exists in seeds. These new plants can be transplanted and grown into mature plants within three years. For this option, you'll need a shovel (or a fork, depending on how large your plant is), a container that is about twice the size of the existing root system, perlite or coarse silica sand, garden shears, and a water source. Here's how to proceed:
- Dig up your volunteer camellia. This should be done carefully, as new plants have very deep roots, called 'taproots'. If you're going to transplant into a new container, pick one that is about twice the size of the root system that already exists. Fill the container with a planting medium mix of 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite or coarse silica sand. It's also a good idea to include some of the topsoil that the plant was in originally, to allow it to pull the same nutrients as it was in its first home.
- Snip the end of the taproot with clean garden shears. This will encourage the formation of more complex root systems. However, if you are planning on transplanting your volunteer into the ground, skip this step. Then, plant your camellia! The hole should be twice the width and about the same depth as the root system at the in-ground site. Backfill lightly and pressing the soil down gently with your hands. Roots should be kept near ground level.
- Water your plant but do not drown it. If your plant will remain in a container, choose a spot that gets indirect sunlight or partial shade. Be sure that excess water can drain off, especially in in-ground plantings.
By Seed
Again, camellias that are grown by seed will not necessarily match the parent plant that they come from. If you'd like an identical plant, it would be best to choose a different propagation method. To propagate a camellia by seed, you'll need
- In late winter, you may notice green seed pods form on your existing camellia. They'll be about the size of a grape. They may darken in color and split open exposing the seeds inside. The seeds will be dark brown or black in color. Don't force the seed pods open before they naturally split, as the seeds are not ready and will not be able to be used for propagation. After they have begun to split, you can break or cut off some of the pod to free the seed. Make shallow incisions in the seed or rub it with sandpaper. Drop the seed in warm water for 12 hours.
- Locate the 'eye' of the seed. This will look like a small impression on one end and it is where the root will emerge. You will plant the seed with the eye down. Planting medium should be one part potting soil and one part coarse silica sand or perlite. The seed should be planted half an inch deep in this soil and be watered well. The pot you place it in should have a drainage hole. Keep the soil slightly damp while you wait for germination. Place the pot in a warm area and wait for seedlings to emerge.
- After seedlings emerge, ensure that they are getting about 8-10 hours of sunlight each day, and keep the soil moist but not wet. After they have sprouted their first sets of true leaves (the second set of leaves up the stem after the cotyledons), you can transplant them into a larger pot. After this step, follow steps 1-3 for transplanting a volunteer camellia.
By Cutting
A third common way of propagating camellia is by cutting. This is the fastest way to propagate a camellia, and should be done in early spring, when new growth starts to appear on the parent plant. You will need a 4-6 inch deep container, potting soil, perlite or coarse silica sand, clean, sharp garden shears, rooting hormone powder, a water mister, a greenhouse or plastic bag and rubber band, and about four 8-10 inch containers. To try it yourself, follow the instructions below:
- You'll start this propagation method by preparing a container of soil, using 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite or coarse silica sand. You can either prepare one container to house a few cuttings (provided they are two inches apart). The container you use should be about 4-6 inches deep to leave space for roots to develop.
- Cut a branch off of the parent plant using a clean pair of shears. This branch should contain a few leaf 'nodes' (which you can learn how to identify in module 1). It should be about 16 inches long, to allow for more chances of a successful propagation. Separate the side branches of the main branch by cutting them between the main branch and the first leaf node. You'll end up with about four cuttings of approximately 4 inches each. Each cutting should have a few leaves.
- Remove the lower leaves from each cutting so that only the top two remain. Then, dip the cut end of the branch into rooting hormone powder and push the cutting into the prepared pot of planting medium. It should go down about 2-3 inches. Repeat with the rest of the cuttings, and ensure that they are spaced about 2 inches apart in the growing container. There is no need to pack down the soil; looser soil is better for rooting. Mist with water to dampen.
- Place the cutting in either a greenhouse, or put a large plastic bag over the top and secure with a rubber band around the top of the container. Keep in a warm, humid place. Then, watch your cuttings develop! It will take about 2-3 months for roots to develop. Keep a close eye on your cuttings during this time. They should be kept moist, not wet. Buds will begin to form once roots do, so this will be your first visual sign of root growth.
- Not all of your cuttings may take root, but once some of them do, you can separate the cuttings into their own separate 8-10 inch containers. When these are beginning to fill with the root system of this new plant, it can then be transplanted to its final location. If you will be putting it into a container, it is a good practice to cut the end of the taproot to encourage a different root system to form.
- If you're having trouble with this process, see the video below on propagating camellia by cuttings.
Problems and Pests
Unfortunately, camellias are susceptible to a few issues, including scale. To stave of infestation of scale on your plants, it is recommended to treat with dormant oil and yearly with systemic insecticide soil drench. Scale can also be picked off by hand to lower population growth if they're already taken up residence. Camellias can also fall ill if there is a lack of iron in the soil. If you are fertilizing regularly, this shouldn't be an issue, but every soil has different levels of iron. If you have this issue, you'll notice the leaves on your camellia starting to yellow. If the Ph of your soil is above 6.5, you may also notice iron issues.
Root rot fungus is a more serious issue that can affect your camellia. It is more common to occur in warm climates. To avoid this issue, ensure that your soil can drain well. For example, if you live in an area with clay-rich soil it is a good practice to dig a much larger hole than needed for your camellia, and then backfilling with amended soil that is well-draining. If you are growing your camellia in a container, make sure that the container has drainage holes. If your camellia becomes infected with root rot, use a strong copper-based fungicide. This will kill the fungus, but your camellia will take a while (up to a few years) to recover.
Lastly, Camellia Petal Blight can affect your plant as well. This disease is usually diagnosed when petals start to have rust spots on them (see the picture below). It will eventually kill the flowers. If you notice this issue on your camellia, immediately pick off the diseased flowers, being careful to not let them touch the rest of the plant. This issue can be staved off by being diligent about picking up spent flowers from the ground around the base of the plant. Camellia Petal Blight is caused by a fungus that will continue to live in the soil once a plant is infected, so it is important to pick up any and all debris around the base of the plant (do NOT add these discards to the compost bin).
Water is a very important element to consider if you think your camellia is having health issues, because it is both easily solvable and if not addressed can open your plant up to other more serious issues. Camellias are not drought tolerant, and need regular waterings, especially when young.
Root rot fungus is a more serious issue that can affect your camellia. It is more common to occur in warm climates. To avoid this issue, ensure that your soil can drain well. For example, if you live in an area with clay-rich soil it is a good practice to dig a much larger hole than needed for your camellia, and then backfilling with amended soil that is well-draining. If you are growing your camellia in a container, make sure that the container has drainage holes. If your camellia becomes infected with root rot, use a strong copper-based fungicide. This will kill the fungus, but your camellia will take a while (up to a few years) to recover.
Lastly, Camellia Petal Blight can affect your plant as well. This disease is usually diagnosed when petals start to have rust spots on them (see the picture below). It will eventually kill the flowers. If you notice this issue on your camellia, immediately pick off the diseased flowers, being careful to not let them touch the rest of the plant. This issue can be staved off by being diligent about picking up spent flowers from the ground around the base of the plant. Camellia Petal Blight is caused by a fungus that will continue to live in the soil once a plant is infected, so it is important to pick up any and all debris around the base of the plant (do NOT add these discards to the compost bin).
Water is a very important element to consider if you think your camellia is having health issues, because it is both easily solvable and if not addressed can open your plant up to other more serious issues. Camellias are not drought tolerant, and need regular waterings, especially when young.
Gallery
Camellias are great candidates to be grown as container plants on your patio.
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A field of thea sinensis
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Camellia hiemalis 'Shishi Gashira'
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A beautiful example of a Camellia espalier.
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Videos
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A video all about growing camellias successfully
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Propagating camellias
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 215 - 218, Camellia
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Camellia Garden Field Guide by Forrest S. Latta and Brenda C Litchfield This easy-to-follow guide will assist you in your camellia growing journey! It is filled with tips and tricks for growing these evergreen shrubs, and includes fun facts and photos throughout. |
If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or photos you’d like to add to the gallery, please let me know by sending me a message using the button below!
