Cotoneaster
( kah - TONE - ee - ass - ter )
At-A-Glance InformationCotoneaster is a genus of flowering plants in the rose family, comprised of evergreen, semi-evergreen, and deciduous shrubs. These plants generally take full sun, need little to moderate amounts of water, and attract birds. Although they are grown intentionally in gardens and planned landscapes, they are also known to be invasive. Use Cotoneaster shrubs as groundcover, in mixed beds and borders, to line pathways, or as specimen plants.
|
Cotoneaster Species and Varietals
The genus Cotoneaster includes between 70 and 300 species, subspecies, and varieties. They are members of the Rose family (Rosaceae) and are relatives of Pyracantha and Photinia. The best growing zones for Cotoneaster vary depending on the species. For more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
Cotoneaster apiculatus (Cranberry Cotoneaster) This varietal is deciduous, and is best in cold-winter climates. It grows best in zones A3 and 2-24. This shrub grows densely, up to three feet tall and six feet wide. Leaves are round and small and turn a reddish color in autumn. Fruits grow in clusters and are the size of large cranberries. Pictured: 'Tom Thumb'. |
Cotoneaster congestus (Pyrenees Cotoneaster) This is an evergreen variety, and grows in zones 3b-24. This variety grows slowly and to about three feet tall and just as wide. Branches are dense and downward-curving, with small dark green leaves. Fruit is bright red, and small. Best to be used in containers and rock gardens. |
Cotoneaster divaricatus (Spreading Cotoneaster) Grows best in zones 1-24, and deciduous. Grows to 6 feet tall and wide. Dark green leaves that turn orange in the fall closely set on stiff branches, with egg-shaped bright red fruits. Is great when used as an informal hedge, as a screen specimen, or as a bank planting. |
Cotoneaster glaucophyllus This is an evergreen variety that grows best in zones 11-14 and 18-20. Gets to be 6-8 feel tall and wide with graceful, arching branches. Foliage is grey-green, and its dense clusters of white flowers followed by dark red berries. Attractive in beds of shrubs or as an informal hedge. |
Cotoneaster horizontalis (Rock Cotoneaster) Stiff, upright variety that grows to 2-3 feet tall and 15 feet wide. Branches form a 'herringbone pattern'. This is a deciduous variety that grows best in zones A3, 2b-11, and 14-24. Leaves are small and bright green and turn orange in the fall before falling off the plant. Leafless period is brief. Effective when given enough room to spread and does not react well to hard pruning to contain growth. |
Cotoneaster microphyllus (Rock Spray Cotoneaster) Evergreen shrub that grows best in zones A3, 2-9, and 14-24. Horizontal branches trail and sprout roots to form a shrub that is 2-3 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Leaves are quite small, colored green on the top and grey underneath and fruit is a 'rosy' red. A good example of this shrub is 'Cooperi', which is a miniature (up to 2 feet tall and 1 foot wide) plant perfect for use in rock gardens. |
Cotoneaster salicifolius (Willow-Leaf Cotoneaster) Can either be evergreen or semi-evergreen, and grows in zones 3b-24. Gets to be up to 18 feet tall and wide with narrow dark green leaves. Fruits are bright red in color. It is great as a screening plant, and has graceful arching branches. This group of shrubs also includes a few groundcover varieties, including 'Emerald Carpet'. |
Caring for and Pruning Cotoneaster
Cotoneasters are very easy to care for if planted in the right environment. They look better and will produce more fruits if planted on dry, sloped areas with good drainage. They are used to reduce erosion on hillsides, and often do not need amended soil for their roots, making them great candidates for 'informal' gardens or natural-looking landscaping on hillsides. They are best when left to their natural habits, so make sure to choose the right variety for your space before planting. These plants enjoy full sun, though there are some varieties that can tolerate partial shade.
New plantings should receive regular water in their first year until they are established, and afterwards are very drought tolerant. A generous amount of mulch should be applied in the fall. Pruning on cotoneasters is done yearly, just to trim off old, dead wood and awkward branches. It is best done in late winter, after flowering.
New plantings should receive regular water in their first year until they are established, and afterwards are very drought tolerant. A generous amount of mulch should be applied in the fall. Pruning on cotoneasters is done yearly, just to trim off old, dead wood and awkward branches. It is best done in late winter, after flowering.
Propagation
Cotoneasters are often naturally propagated through wildlife, mainly birds. However, if you'd like to propagate this shrub yourself, you can either take a cutting, or grow a new plant from seed. Taking a cutting to propagating a new plant is the easiest and fastest way to have a new specimen for your garden.
From Hardwood Cutting
From Softwood Cutting
From Seed
From Hardwood Cutting
- Prepare your propagation pot by filling it with sand. The pot should be large enough to space apart your cuttings by about 2 inches, and about 6-8 inches deep, and should have a drainage hole.
- In early fall or early spring, choose a cotoneaster you'd like to propagate. During these times, the plant is more dormant. Take a few hardwood cuttings off of the main stem of the plant, approximately 6-8 inches each. Each cutting should have about three nodes on them. The width of the cutting should be at least a quarter of an inch. Make cuts right below nodes.
- Scrape the bottom inch of bark off of the cutting and remove most of the leaves (if there are any). Leave the top few leaves on the cutting.
- Dip your cutting in rooting hormone, and then push them into your potting medium, ensuring that they are spaced apart by about two inches. Water your cuttings, ensuring that water can drain out of the bottom of the pot.
- Place your pot in a warm, sunny, safe area. Keep the sand moist, but not wet, as your cuttings take root. They should start rooting within 6-8 weeks.
From Softwood Cutting
- Prepare your propagation pot by filling it with sand, and ensuring there is a drainage hole in the bottom. The pot should be large enough to space apart your cuttings by about 2 inches, and should be approximately 6-8 inches deep.
- Softwood cuttings should be taken from the parent plant when it is actively growing. This will usually be between late May to the end of August. Choose your cuttings from the 'soft wood' of the plant, the newer growth towards the ends of the branches. Each cutting you take should be about 5-6 inches in length.
- Scrape the bottom inch of bark off of the cutting and remove most of the leaves, leaving only the top few. Dip in rooting hormone and push your cuttings into the growing medium, ensuring that you have them spaced at least two inches apart.
- Water your cuttings, ensuring that excess water is draining out of the bottom, and place your pot in a warm, sunny spot. Keep the sand moist, but not wet, as the cuttings take root. They should start rooting within three to four weeks.
From Seed
- This method of propagating Cotoneaster is by far the slowest - seeds can take up to two years to fully germinate. If you've got the patience, follow the steps below!
- Harvest ripe berries from an existing Cotoneaster in the fall. Cut them open to collect the seeds inside. For reference, see the gallery picture below of cotoneaster berries and seeds. Please note that the berries can be toxic, so make sure to wear gloves during this process.
- Place your seeds in a bowl with some dirt and small rocks, and stir it around a bit to scar the seeds. Place the seeds in well-draining organic soil or compost and cover them with backfill. Place your seeds in a place where they will get cold weather for a few months. Keep them moist, but not wet, until the spring time.
- You can sow the seeds after the spring comes around, when the roots are visible. The seed can now be transplanted. Your plant may take up to a year and a half longer to really grow into its own, and requires a close eye to monitor soil moisture. Once your plant has hit the two-year mark, it can be transplanted to its final home in your yard or in a container.
Problems and Pests
Fireblight, aphids and scale are all issues that affect these shrubs. For more information on how to treat, eradicate and prevent these infestations, consult the links below:
Gallery
Videos
A great introductory video for Cotoneaster plants.
|
Information on planting and caring for Cotoneaster 'Coral Beauty'.
|
All about Spreading Cotoneaster varieties.
|
Pruning Cotoneaster.
|
How to rescue a neglected Cotoneaster bonsai.
|
Cotoneasters can make great trees for smaller garden spaces.
|
Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Pages 257 - 258 Cotoneaster
If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or photos you’d like to add to the gallery, please let me know by sending me a message using the button below!