Photinia
( foh - TIN - ee - uh )
At-A-Glance InformationThis genus of shrubs is prized for its handsome foliage and needs full sun and moderate to regular water. These shrubs are commonly called Chinese Hawthorn or simply Photinia, and reach a mature size of 10 to 15 feet tall and 5 to 12 feet wide when mature. New growth is commonly brightly colored. Flowers are small and white, followed in autumn by black or red berries that are popular with wildlife. Use Photinia as formal or informal hedge plants, as evergreen background plantings, as standard shade trees in the landscape, or as topiary. Take care when planting these shrubs in the garden, as plant parts are toxic to humans, pets, and grazing animals if ingested.
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Photinia Species and Varietals
The genus Photinia includes around 30 species, and is a member of the plant family Rosaceae. The plants in this genus are closely related to those in Malus (Apple), Pyrus (Pear), Pyracantha (Firethorn), Cotoneaster, Crataegus (Hawthorn), Sorbus (Mountain Ash), and Heteromeles (Christmas Berry). The botanical genus name is derived from the Greek word photeinos (meaning 'shiny'), referring to the beautiful glossy leaves. The ideal growing zones for Photinia vary depending on the species; for more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Photinia davidiana (Stranvaesia davidiana) (Chinese Photinia, Chinese Stranvaesia, David's Stranvaesia) This species can be an evergreen shrub or small tree, and is native to China and Vietnam. Grows well in USDA hardiness zones 6-9 or Sunset growing zones 4-11 and 14-17. This is an informal plant that reaches 6-20 feet tall and just as wide. New foliage is red-tinted, and fall foliage can be purple or bronze. Flowers appear in late spring and early summer and red berries are present in autumn. Give plenty of room to grow and not-too-rich soil. Groundcover-type subspecies Photinia davidiana undulata (pictured) is a low-grower to 5 feet tall and wide, with wavy foliage. This species is considered invasive in Hawai'i. |
Photinia x fraseri (Red Tip Photinia, Fraser Photinia)
These hybrids (crosses of Photinia glabra and Photinia serratifolia) can take the form of an evergreen shrub or tree and grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7a-9b or Sunset growing zones 3b and 4-24. New leaves are bright red, and these shrubs can reach 10-15 feet tall and wide at maturity. Flowers bloom in spring and are not followed by berries. This species can make a wonderful espalier, and cut branches are wonderful greenery in flower arrangements. These shrubs are resistant to mildew and heat, but can suffer from leaf spot, aphid and chlorosis issues. This species is considered invasive in the southeastern United States.
These hybrids (crosses of Photinia glabra and Photinia serratifolia) can take the form of an evergreen shrub or tree and grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7a-9b or Sunset growing zones 3b and 4-24. New leaves are bright red, and these shrubs can reach 10-15 feet tall and wide at maturity. Flowers bloom in spring and are not followed by berries. This species can make a wonderful espalier, and cut branches are wonderful greenery in flower arrangements. These shrubs are resistant to mildew and heat, but can suffer from leaf spot, aphid and chlorosis issues. This species is considered invasive in the southeastern United States.
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'Pink Marble'
Variegated foliage with white, rose, and green new growth. To 6-15 feet tall. |
'Red Robin'
bright red new foliage; resistant to leaf spot. To 8 to 12 feet tall and 6 to 12 feet wide. |
'Super Hedger'
Fast-growing privacy screening 10 to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. 1-2 feet of growth per year. |
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Photinia glabra (Japanese Photinia, Red-Leaf Photinia, Japanese Redtip, Kaname-Mochi, カナメモチ, 要黐) This species is an evergreen shrub type that grows well in USDA hardiness zones 7a-11b or Sunset growing zones 4-9 and 14-24. It reaches 6-10 feet tall and wide, with a broad, dense habit. Leaves are copper-colored when new and a couple leaves will turn bright red in fall and winter. Flowers appear in early summer and are followed by red berries that age to black. Varieties are available with variegated foliage. |
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Photinia serratifolia (Photinia serrulata) (Chinese Photinia, Taiwanese Photinia, Chinese Hawthorn, Taiwanese Redtip, Shínán, 石楠, Táiwān Shínán, 台灣石楠) This species can be kept as a shrub or formed into a tree, and is best in USDA hardiness zones 6-9 or Sunset growing zones 4-16 and 17-24. Native to China, with a broad, dense habit reaching 30 feet tall and wide, but pruned to stay about a third of the size. Leaves have prickly edges and flower clusters bloom in late spring to early summer. Berries are bright red and last through winter. Cultivar 'Aculeata' (also sold under 'Nova' or 'Nova Lineata') has a more compact growing habit and ivory-yellow veining on leaves. This species is considered invasive in the southern and western United States. |
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Photinia villosa (Pourthiaea villosa) (Christmas Berry, Oriental Photinia, Hairy-Leaved Photinia, Máo Yè Shí Nán, 毛叶石楠, Kamatsuka, Sickle Handle, カマツカ, Yunnorinamu, 윤노리나무) This species can be grown as either a deciduous shrub or tree, and is native to China, Korea and Japan. It reaches about 15 feet tall and just as wide, and is best in USDA hardiness zones 4-7 or Sunset growing zones 3-9 and 14-17. The wood from these plants is used to craft tokens for the Korean board game Yunnori (윷놀이). New foliage is pale gold with rose tint, and matures to green. Leaves turn bright red to yellow in fall. Flower clusters are followed by bright red berries. This species is considered highly invasive in the Mid-Atlantic and northeastern regions of the United States. |
Caring for Photinia
Take care when planting these shrubs in the garden, as plant parts are toxic to humans and pets if ingested. Space Photinia plants 2-3 feet apart for a fast, dense privacy screen. Larger, more mature plants can be spaced 3 to 5 feet apart. Install these shrubs in full to partial sun in acidic to neutral soil (with a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0) that is well-draining. If local soils are particularly poor in nutrients or do not drain well, make sure to amend the planting area with plenty of organic compost before installing. Apply a layer of mulch around the planting area to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water new plantings regularly as they establish a strong root system in their new home. These shrubs are considered somewhat drought tolerant at maturity, but will do better with regular waterings, especially during their active growing and blooming seasons.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Evergreen species will keep their leaves through winter, though foliage can be damaged by temperatures below 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover young plants during freezing weather. After cooler temperatures have passed in early spring, make sure to remove any damaged foliage or branches. Many Photinia shrubs can be turned into trees; this will require yearly prunings as the plant is getting established. To form the tree, remove all branches below the desired canopy height, never removing more than a third of the plant in a year. Once the tree form has been achieved, continue to remove any new growth below the canopy. To maintain Photinia shrubs as privacy screening or hedges, prune regularly to maintain their desired height and bushiness. Taper the shrub with the top slightly narrower than the base. This will allow sunlight to penetrate the top layers and reach the lower branches. Do not shear these shrubs, as this will create a woody and torn appearance and leave the plant vulnerable to fungal leaf spot and other diseases. Photinia shrubs are long-lived in the landscape, surviving for between 15 and 50 years or more with proper care before needing to be replaced.
Caring for Photinia in Containers
Photinia shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Photinia plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Fertilize yearly in early springtime with an application of 2 inches of compost around the base of plants. Pull mulch back before applying, work the compost gently into the soil a bit, water it in, and then replace mulch. Evergreen species will keep their leaves through winter, though foliage can be damaged by temperatures below 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover young plants during freezing weather. After cooler temperatures have passed in early spring, make sure to remove any damaged foliage or branches. Many Photinia shrubs can be turned into trees; this will require yearly prunings as the plant is getting established. To form the tree, remove all branches below the desired canopy height, never removing more than a third of the plant in a year. Once the tree form has been achieved, continue to remove any new growth below the canopy. To maintain Photinia shrubs as privacy screening or hedges, prune regularly to maintain their desired height and bushiness. Taper the shrub with the top slightly narrower than the base. This will allow sunlight to penetrate the top layers and reach the lower branches. Do not shear these shrubs, as this will create a woody and torn appearance and leave the plant vulnerable to fungal leaf spot and other diseases. Photinia shrubs are long-lived in the landscape, surviving for between 15 and 50 years or more with proper care before needing to be replaced.
Caring for Photinia in Containers
Photinia shrubs are wonderful in the ground, but can also be grown in containers. Choose a container that is at least a few inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot or root ball. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes on the bottom to allow for excess water to flow away. Fill with a well-draining potting mix amended with organic material and perlite, and top with a layer of mulch to suppress weed growth, maintain consistent soil temperatures, and to increase soil moisture retention. Water regularly as the plant establishes itself in its new home. Once established, waterings can be lessened. Photinia plants grown in containers will need more frequent irrigation than those grown in the ground. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage at any time during the growing season. Every few years, check the bottom of the pot to ensure that the plant is not outgrowing its root space. If roots are growing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container, it is a good indication that it needs to be potted up; choose a slightly larger container and repot.
Propagation
The best way to propagate these shrubs is via cutting in midsummer. To complete the process, follow the steps below:
Propagating Photinia by Cutting
Propagating Photinia by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. A good substrate for propagation of cuttings is a light blend of 1/3 pasteurized soil or compost, 1/3 sand, vermiculite or perlite, and 1/3 coconut coir or peat moss.
- In the middle of summer, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Problems and Pests
Certain Photinia species are considered invasive in some regions; see the species descriptions above for more information. Check with local authorities before planting. Photinia shrubs are susceptible to the following issues:
- Fungal Leaf Spot
- Fire Blight
- Powdery Mildew
- Aphids
- Spider Mites
- Scale Insects
Gallery
Videos
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How to propagate Photinia shrubs.
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All about Red-Tip Photinia.
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Trimming Photinia into a formal hedge.
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How to prune a Red-Tip Photinia shrub.
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Growing tips for Photinia shrubs.
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Dealing with Leaf Spot issues on Photinia shrubs.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 502, Photinia