Phlomis
( FLO - miss )
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At-A-Glance InformationThis genus of perennials and evergreen shrubs need full sun and little to moderate water, making them good choices for planting in water-wise gardens. Common names include Jarusalem Sage and Lampwick Plant. They are native to the Mediterranean and produce flowers in whorls, giving them a unique look. Blooms come in a variety of colors, including yellow, purple or lilac. Leaves are furry and greyish-green and conserve moisture to prepare for drought conditions. Flowers are wonderful additions to cut arrangements and dry well for winter bouquets.
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Phlomis Species and Varietals
This genus includes about 100 species, and is a member of the plant family Lamiaceae. The genus name is derived from the Greek word for 'flame', possibly referring to the use of the leaves in ancient times as wicks for candles. Phlomis growing zones vary depending on the species; for more information, see the descriptions below. To find your zone, click here: Zone Map.
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Phlomis 'Edward Bowles' (Phlomis 'Grande Verde') This species takes the form of a shrub, reaching 3-4 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide. It grows well in zones 3b-24 and is a hybrid between Phlomis fruticosa and Phlomis ruseliana. |
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Phlomis fruticosa (Jerusalem Sage) This species is a shrub and grows well in zones 3b-24. It reaches 4 feet tall and wide, and has grey-green wooly leaves. Flowers are golden yellow, blooming in spring and summer. Will repeat bloom if deadheaded. In fall, cut back by half to keep a compact look. Tolerates light shade for part of the day. Resistant to Oak Root Fungus. |
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Phlomis italica This species takes the form of a shrub with an arching, suckering habit. Reaches 1-2 feet tall and just a little bit wider; best in zones 5-24. Grey green leaves are wooly to the touch. Flowers are lilac-pink and bloom in early summer to midsummer. Remove faded flower stems to keep a neat look. Cut out basal branches that are older than three years. |
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Phlomis lanata This shrub grows well in zones 7-24 and has a dense, compact habit, reaching 4-6 feet tall and wide. Leaves are wooly and wrinkled. Deep yellow flowers appear from spring through fall, and will have a longer blooming period if deadheaded. |
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Phlomis purpurea This shrub grows well in zones 7-24 and has a dense, compact habit to 4-6 feet tall and wide. Grey-green leaves contrast well against purple-pink flowers that bloom in late springtime. Can repeat bloom if deadheaded regularly. Cut plant back by a third after each flowering period to keep a compact, neat look. |
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Phlomis russeliana (Turkish Sage) This perennial grows well in zones 2-24 and spreads via underground rhizomes to form a clump of green foliage. Leaves are large and heart-shaped; flowers are yellow, aging to cream, and bloom on 2-3 foot tall stems. Blooming period is in early summer, but can bloom longer if deadheaded. Can tolerate partial shade. |
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Phlomis samia This perennial grows well in zones 2-24 and forms a low mat of green foliage. Blooms pop through the summer season on 2-3 foot tall stems. Flowers are purple to purple-pink, and varieties exist with white or green flowers. |
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Phlomis tuberosa (Sage-Leaf Mullein) This species is a perennial that grows from tuberous roots, growing well in zones A1-A3 and 1-24. It forms a rosette of deep green leaves covered with tiny hairs, and from late spring through summer, sends up 3-6 foot tall stems of purple to mauve blooms. The plant dies to the ground in wintertime. |
Caring for and pruning Phlomis
These shrubs prefer to be planted in full sun to dappled shade, doing best with at least 6-8 hours of sun each day. Plant in well-draining soil that is moderately fertile, amended with organic material, and has a pH of between 4.5 and 8.0, though this varies depending on the species somewhat, so check specific requirements before planting. Water deeply but infrequently when these plants are mature (they will need somewhat regular waterings as they are becoming established in the garden). These are considered to be relatively drought-tolerant plants; allow soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Apply a layer of mulch around the bottom of the plant to increase soil moisture retention, and prune as needed to maintain shape and size. Remove spent flower spikes after they have faded if desired; they are still handsome when spent, and are commonly left standing after flowers fade. Trim back leggy foliage growth to encourage a more compact, bushy, fuller plant to form. Dead or damaged growth can be pruned away at any time as it appears.
Apply a layer of mulch around the bottom of the plant to increase soil moisture retention, and prune as needed to maintain shape and size. Remove spent flower spikes after they have faded if desired; they are still handsome when spent, and are commonly left standing after flowers fade. Trim back leggy foliage growth to encourage a more compact, bushy, fuller plant to form. Dead or damaged growth can be pruned away at any time as it appears.
Propagation
Phlomis can be propagated either by using cuttings or from seed. To ensure that your propagated plant will have the exact same qualities and characteristics as the parent plant, use the cutting method. If you would like to experiment and see what plant you can grow from seed, just keep in mind that it will not necessarily be the same as the parent plant. To propagate your shrub, follow the instructions below:
Propagating Phlomis by Cutting
Propagating Phlomis by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost, gloves and other protective wear (to prevent skin contact) and pots (12 inch pots will do, and these are only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in spring or fall (after the plant has entered dormancy and been cut to the ground, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every four to five years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
Propagating Phlomis by Seed
Propagating Phlomis by Cutting
- Gather your materials. You'll need a clean, sanitized, sharp pair of garden shears, rooting hormone, a pencil, and a 3-inch pot filled with well-draining compost or other organic material. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand.
- In spring or early summertime, choose the plant that you'd like to propagate. Ensure that this plant has had a good watering the night before, as this will improve the chances your cutting will take root. Cut one or more 6 inch portion(s) of the end of a non-blooming branch and strip the leaves off of the lower half. Make a hole in your planting medium by pushing your pencil into the soil. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone, and plant it in your pot. Fill in soil around the cutting to support it, but do not pack it down too much.
- Moisten with water, and ensure that the pot has good drainage. Your pot should be kept in warm, sunny conditions indoors (and not in direct sunlight). Water whenever your soil is dry under the top layer. After about four to six weeks have passed, your cutting should be rooted. When you notice new growth, you'll know you have roots.
- Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring, when you can transplant it to its new home. Ensure that the last frost of the year has occurred before doing this, as it can seriously damage your new shrub.
Propagating Phlomis by Division
This type of propagation is relatively simple; you will need a clean shovel, mulch, fresh soil (any kind will do, though it does need to be well-draining), compost, gloves and other protective wear (to prevent skin contact) and pots (12 inch pots will do, and these are only necessary if you will be saving divided plants for transporting elsewhere). Division is best done in spring or fall (after the plant has entered dormancy and been cut to the ground, but before it has begun its new spring growth), and needs to be done every four to five years regardless of whether you have the goal of propagating the plants for best performance. To propagate by division, follow these steps:
- Gather your materials. Using a shovel, dig up your existing plant. Start from the outside and work your way in to avoid damaging the roots. Once you have worked it up out of the ground, lay it out.
- Start to tease apart the roots with your gloved fingers. Once the roots are untangled, separate your plant into segments, ensuring that each one has at least one thick tuberous section.
- Prepare your pot(s) or new planting site(s) with amended, well-draining soil. You can either bring in new soil or simply amend your existing soil with compost to complete this task. Then, plant your divided tubers about an inch under the soil surface and water thoroughly.
- Apply a thick layer of mulch over the new planting to protect it from cold weather as it acclimates to its new home. Then, enjoy watching it sprout.
Propagating Phlomis by Seed
- Keep in mind that the plant you get from seed will not necessarily mimic all of the characteristics of the parent plant. To propagate by seed, you will need a paper bag, a pot or tray filled with well-draining compost or other organic material, a spray bottle and a fork. If you don't have any potting medium on hand, you can make some. Just mix together equal parts (by volume) moss peat and horticultural-grade sand or grit sand. You will also, after a few weeks, need individual 3-inch pots for each seedling that grows.
- In January or February, water your prepared seed tray or pot filled with soil, and ensure that good drainage is occurring. Place your seeds in your prepared pot or seed tray about a quarter inch to a half-inch under the soil surface. Cover them with soil and water with your spray bottle. Place your tray of seeds in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light. A greenhouse is the most ideal climate, but a planting tray inside a window will do as well. Germination usually takes between two weeks and two months from sowing. Once you begin to see seedlings sprout and they are able to be handled, transplant them to their own individual 3-inch pots, filled with the same potting medium as described in Step 1. Loosen the seedlings from the potting medium by digging down with the tines of your fork about an inch and a half, gently working the seedling up until it is out. Then, replant the seedling in its individual pot.
- Keep the seedling's potting medium moist, but not wet, by spraying the soil with your spray bottle. Keep your new plant in an area with bright light (though not direct sunlight) and temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil stays moist, but not wet, until the next spring (after the danger of frost has passed), when you can transplant it to its new home.
Phlomis seeds are contained inside dried seed heads that appear on stems after flowers have faded.
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Phlomis seeds.
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Problems and Pests
Although Phlomis plants are relatively resistant to pests and diseases, they do suffer from a few issues, including:
- Aphids
- Scale Insects
Gallery
Even the spent flower spikes of Phlomis russeliana are attractive.
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Phlomis is great for edging lawn areas.
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Phlomis shrubs are at home in cottage-style gardens.
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Videos
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How to grow and care for Phlomis shrubs.
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All about Phlomis purpurea.
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How to grow this wonderful perennial plant.
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Resources
The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012) - Page 499, Phlomis
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