If you haven't heard already, it's World Vegetarian Day. This awareness day is dedicated to espousing the benefits of a vegetarian diet on the environment, personal health, local and national economics, and the lives of harvested animals across the country. There is much controversy over diets that exclude meat (and even those that discourage eating specific types of meat). On the surface, raging against some of the most peace-seeking people on the planet seems insane, but it's important to look deeper to get a full understanding of why some have such intense reactions to herbivorous humans.

It is thought that the basis of these trends in media and acceptance of vegetarian lifestyles is rooted in our culture of speciesism. Speciesism is the tendency of humans to view themselves as being a life form that is more deserving and important than all others on the globe. It is a very common prejudice to hold, and pointing it out in people who view themselves as just and responsible individuals can make for a very uncomfortable situation. Simply the knowledge of the existence of a vegetarian is enough to set most people off, both online and in person.

In our short stay on this planet, humanity has thus far destroyed a third of the forests, polluted 99% of habitats, and created a vast food system that benefits greatly from the mistreatment of all other life on earth. The goal of our food system has always been the same: to provide food for a large population. It seems a simple enough task, but as with every industry, after a while, cost-cutting, the desire of business owners to maximize profits, and the ignorance of a vast majority of the consumer population has led to a horrible situation for animals. If just the clearly erroneous idea of people eating their neighbor's dogs and cats is enough to cause bomb threats in Ohio, it seems strange that anybody would be unbothered by the way cows, pigs, chickens and other animals are treated in this country. As it is with many other injustices in the United States, it seems that either cognitive dissonance or just plain stubborn delusion is at work, perpetuating strong feelings in certain populations that keep these machines of torture running.

But I've digressed, because what World Vegetarian Day is really about is the sharing of positive changes and trends pertaining to a lifestyle that we should all be striving for, not for our own image but for the future of the planet (and by extension, those who come after us). Vegetarianism (and veganism) is the smarter, more peaceful and sustainable choice. Period. It is what all the cool kids are doing. It is a future-forward way of eating, and it is a simple step in the right direction for our entire species to lessen our ongoing damage to the world. So, in the spirit of the holiday, I'd like to share one of my favorite vegetarian dishes with you:

And there you have it: a delicious, existential guilt-free steak recipe to make for the holidays. By building yummy recipes like this one into our go-to cookbooks, we can start to take small steps to lessen our impact on the world and the suffering of animals. On average, a human eats about 700 animals in their lifetime. By lessening this number on an individual basis, we can lessen the overall demand for meat, and the more people that can be encouraged to do this, the more an impact we can make.

Gardens enter a time of vibrant transformation in autumn, when the landscape is draped in rich, warm hues. Leaves are beginning to shift color, and the air becomes crisp and cool. Gentle breezes float through the trees, removing the first leaves of the season from their attachments. ​It is a peaceful, reflective time when growth slows down and plants begin to prepare themselves for dormancy. The first day of the fall season, which is today, is a great time to start thinking about updating pots and annual beds. A great group of plants to pay attention to this year is ornamental greens. This group includes ornamental Kales and Cabbages, and has the potential to raise your displays to the next level. 

Many of us are used to seeing Brassicas in the veggie garden or on our salad plate, but it may surprise you to find out that they are also quite fantastic at adding interest to ornamental planters. Although they are commonly overlooked in favor of other flowering fall plants like Cyclamens or Mums, they have beautiful colors that are typically brought out even more with cool temperatures. Commonly called Flowering Cabbage or Flowering Kale, these plants are not edible; their leaves tend to be bitter and unpalatable. Leaves are typically deeply cut, frilly, or ruffled, and the only use they get in the kitchen is as garnish. 

Both types of ornamental greens form rosettes of leaves, though flowering kales tend to have serrated or fringed leaf margins and flowering cabbages form more of a head of foliage with smooth edges. Both are considered cool-season biennial plants which grow vegetative leaves in the first year, and send up flowers in the second. They are typically grown as annuals, removed from displays after their foliage begins to wilt with extended freezing temperatures in wintertime.

There are a few different varieties of these plants that are available through nurseries and other plant sellers. Although starting from seed is possible, it is not always recommended because many seed packets are not marked with the exact cultivars included. It is more common to purchase starts at a nursery or other plant seller when the plants are already producing colorful foliage. Popular varieties of ornamental kale include the 'Peacock' series and the 'Chidori' series. Ornamental cabbage varieties include 'Color Up', 'Osaka', and 'Pigeon'.

These foliage plants are relatively easy to care for, and don't have many pest or disease issues. Although they can be planted directly in the ground throughout the landscape, they make a bigger statement in containers or when planted en masse. They pair well with Chrysanthemum, ornamental grasses, Asters, Heuchera, and Pansies. If you're looking for a plant to brighten up your fall containers this year, look no further than these flowering relatives of some of our edible favorites.

Until next time!

A well-maintained garden not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of your home but also adds value to your property. However, achieving and maintaining such beauty requires consistent attention, care, and expertise. For many homeowners, the question arises: how often should you hire a gardener to keep your residential landscape in prime condition? The answer varies based on a number of factors, including the size of the property, the types of plants in the landscape, your local climate, and personal preferences. In this post, we’ll explore the various considerations that impact the frequency of hiring a gardener, along with the benefits of professional garden care.

Each garden is unique, and how often a maintenance crew should visit is largely dependent on the specific requirements of various elements of the garden. For instance, a simple lawn with a few flower beds will have different needs than one with a backyard orchard. Landscape elements include:

The unique climate of a landscape as well as seasonal changes in weather can affect how often garden maintenance is required. Different plants have varying growth cycles, and the care they require changes with the seasons.

In addition to having a maintenance crew visit the landscape, many home gardeners will complete some garden tasks on their own. This can save money in the long run, and can actually be a very enjoyable way to pass free time. How much time homeowners have to dedicate to garden care is an important consideration when deciding how often to hire a garden crew. If you are a busy professional or simply just do not have the time to care for your garden, hiring a gardener of a weekly or bi-weekly basis can ensure that your landscape remains in good condition throughout the year. If you enjoy gardening as a hobby and have a lot of free time, you may only need professional care four times a year.

Arguably the most important factor in how often a professional garden crew is hired for maintenance is budget. Professional gardening services can vary greatly in cost depending on the location, the size of a property, and the specific services required. Many gardening sercices offer package deals for regular maintenance, which can be more cost-effective than hiring a gardener on an as-needed basis. Newer garden maintenance companies have subscription plans with options to add services on an as-needed basis.

A day of garden maintenance is about 8 hours, and a half-day is considered 4. Basic gardeners in the Bay Area, California get paid an average of $25 an hour, which works out to $200 for a full day and $100 for a half day of maintenance. Labor price per hour varies depending on location, and the level of garden care provided. Materials like mulch, topsoil, compost, and plants are extra costs incurred by homeowners, as well, though some subscription gardening companies are changing this, building anticipated regular maintenance materials into their pricing structure.

Hiring a professional gardening service has many benefits beyond simply the convenience factor. Here are some of the key advantages:

as soon as it was brought home from the birthday party. An ideal planting site for these shrubs is in partial shade, though they can take full sun for most of the day as long as they get shade during the warmest hours (usually between 2 and 6 PM). Hydrangeas like slightly acidic soil with a pH of between 5.8 and 6.2 that is well-draining but kept moist. 

Pinky Winky Hydrangeas are also sold by some nurseries as small trees, which can reach about 8 feet tall with a 6 foot wide crown. For more information on more species and varieties of Hydrangea, as well as care information, click the link below to be taken to their plant page:

What's Going On?
It looks like this Hydrangea is in serious need of some water. With the somewhat cooler weather we've had in the past week here in the Bay Area, many gardeners took a short break from watering their plants so frequently (I know I did!). But it's important to remember that the plants we care for (especially those grown in pots) still do need to be at least checked for soil moisture daily; they have no way of sending their roots further down in search of water. Watering once a week is not sufficient for a Hydrangea plant in a nursery pot, a more ideal watering schedule would be at least 2-3 times per week.

Also, by this point the soil in the pot is most likely hydrophobic, meaning that it will not do a great job absorbing water for roots to use. Most of the water will run off the top of the soil, down the sides of the root ball inside the container, and right out the holes in the bottom without so much as touching a root. Further concerning the root system of the plant, it is possible that because the pot size is so small, the plant is root-bound. Luckily, all of these issues are fixable.

To try to save this plant, we'll do some initial pruning and soil rehydration followed with a repotting and top dressing. 

A Little Haircut
Cut off the flowers on this Hydrangea plant. Flowers take a lot of water to form and bloom, and cutting them off will allow the plant to send more of its energy and resources to repairing itself and forming a strong root system. If there are any smaller flower buds on the plant, cut them off as well.

Rehydrate the Soil
Fill a 5-gallon bucket or similar container with water and lower the Hydrangea in its container into the water. It will try to stay afloat at first, but the longer it is held under, the more it will take on water and become less buoyant. Once the pot is staying under the water on its own, it can be pulled out and set aside to drain. Repeat this process every 2-3 days until water poured at the base of the main stem is readily absorbed by the soil.

Find a pot with nice drainage holes that is 4-5 inches wider in diameter than the nursery pot and fill the bottom of the pot with well-draining potting soil. A good mix for container-grown Hydrangeas is a standard potting mix with a scoop of perlite and a generous amount of compost thrown in. Don't worry about fertilizing at this point; it's possible that it will overwhelm the plant's recovering root system to have to deal with so many changes at once. Add enough soil to the bottom of the pot so that when the nursery pot is set inside, it sits about 2 inches below the container rim. Then, remove the Hydrangea from its nursery pot and check out the root system.

Make sure that the Hydrangea is surrounded with enough soil to keep it in place, but don't pack it down too much. The soil should have enough pore space to allow for healthy root growth. Give the new pot a soaking and ensure that good drainage is happening. 

Topdress the Pot
​The final step to bringing the Hydrangea back to full health is to add a 2 inch layer of organic mulch to the soil surface. Ensure that the mulch doesn't go right up to the main stem of the plant, keep it about 2-3 inches away. Adding mulch to your container will help to keep moisture in the soil, suppress weed growth, and maintain soil temperature.

After taking these steps, it's time to sit back and watch your Hydrangea recover. The container should be placed in an area that is somewhat sheltered for a while, to avoid any other issues from taking hold while the plant is vulnerable. Make sure it is protected from direct afternoon sun, and water every 2-3 days after checking for soil moisture. If an eventual goal is to put the plant in the ground, wait until next springtime to give it time to recover and get used to the climate in your garden. With some luck, this plant will be saved!

When evaluating droopy plants, it is critical to determine the wetness of soil at the root ball level. Begin by removing the mulch from underneath your plant, and find a place where you can stick your finger into the soil close to the root ball. If it is wet an inch or two down, the plant has enough water and is probably drooping due to the heat from the sun. In this situation, see if you can give plants some much-needed shade during the warmest parts of the day (which is usually between 2:00 and 3:00 PM). If plants are in containers, you can physically move them underneath overhangs or to shaded sides of your home. If they are in the ground, shade can be provided with a strategically-placed umbrella or shade screen.

If your soil feels dry under your drooping plant, it is a clear sign that it needs more water. Evaluate how you are watering your plant, how the soil is absorbing that water, and whether your plant can even be saved. Drip systems are considered the best for watering most landscape plants because they provide water slowly enough for the soil to have time to absorb moisture. If water is applied at to fast of a rate (via a hose or sprinkler system), water will simply run off the soil surface to lower areas of the landscape, and not be absorbed by the soil that your plant is pulling its water from. In some situations, water corrections may be made too late to save the plant and it will need to be removed and replaced with something a little more tolerant of heat and drought. Thankfully, you can find a replacement plant in the list below.

The following plants were chosen for their resistances to drought and heat stress. These plants are beautiful, hardy, easy to care for, and are great choices for western landscapes.

Even though gardening in the summer months can be a bit frustrating, using the plants above can go a long way in creating a landscape that is both beautiful and low-maintenance over the warmer months of the year. Monitoring your garden for signs of water stress is critical to keeping plants healthy and happy, and thankfully cooler temperatures will come around again in just a few months' time.

Happy gardening!

According to the National Garden Bureau, Cucumber (Cucumis sativa) plants are grown in at least half of home gardens in the United States. There are many different varieties to choose from, including slicing, pickling, and burpless. Cucumbers are great plants for the backyard edible garden - they require full sun, and do fantastic against fences or trellises, where their tendrils will have fun climbing up a vertical surface. They are actually great for covering areas of fence, reaching between 2 and 8 feet tall during the growing season. If you are growing your cucumbers to be eaten fresh, 2-3 plants per person in the household should be sufficient, and if you are growing your cucumbers with the intention of pickling, about 3-4 plants will create a quart of pickles.

To maximize harvest even more, companion plants can be installed near Cucumbers. Growing these plants alongside one another is incredibly beneficial to the overall health of the garden, increasing yields and repelling pests, as well as enticing beneficial pollinators to enter the space. 

In addition to there being great companion plantings for Cucumbers, there are also some plants that should be avoided:

Now that you've got a better idea of how to build a synergistic garden space for Cucumber plants, it's time to plant! The best time to plant seedling Cucumbers is right now (the best time to sow Cucumber seeds for planting was back in mid to late spring, though they can still go in the ground now). For more information on Cucumbers, including their relatives and varieties, visit the Cucumber page.

When it comes to backyard horticulture, tomatoes are a classic favorite, with their ease of cultivation, high productive capacity, and delicious flavors. Tomatoes can be grown in almost any situation, as long as they are provided with enough sunlight and water. Although many small-space gardeners may believe that they simply don't have the room for these edible superstars, there are many ways tomatoes can be incorporated into small gardens and even apartment container gardens with ease. If you're a green thumb who is a bit short on space, here's what you need to know about growing tomatoes in pots:

Now that you've got an idea of what tomato varieties to choose and how to plant them, here's what you should know about caring for your plants in this situation:

Fertilizing
Tomatoes grown in the ground do not always need fertilizing, but those grown in containers do greatly benefit from regular feedings through the growing season. Apply a balanced, water-soluble feeding at half strength once every two weeks or so. Tomato plants prefer small, frequent fertilizations over infrequent, heavy feedings.

Pest and Disease Management in Tomato Plants
Whether grown in pots or in the ground, tomato plants do have their fair share of pests and diseases. Some of the more common culprits include Aphids, Hornworms, Whiteflies, Wireworms, Verticillium Wilt, Tobacco Mosaic Virus, Damping Off, and Powdery Mildew. For more information about common Tomato pests and diseases, including how to eradicate them, consult the Tomato page.

Tomatoes are fantastic edible additions to any garden, producing nutritious fruits and providing beauty and interest to both indoor and outdoor spaces. Whether you have a large backyard space or a tiny patio with just one pot, you too can grow your own.

Until Next Time, 
- Kristi

This past weekend, I headed out to Lake Amador in Ione, California. My husband is a big fisherman, and he went up to participate in their annual Trout Derby. I joined him after a few days, after I got off work on Saturday night. When I got to the lake, it was cold, dark, wet, and windy. The rain had turned our campsite into a slushy, muddy mess. So I made quick work of  setting up the canopy and getting our sleeping situation figured out, and we went to bed, crossing our fingers on both hands for a clear morning.

The next day, I woke up to a beautiful surprise. Fields of orange wildflowers surrounded our campsite, dotting the grassy hills with color. The flowers stood on tall, slender green stems, and the inflorescences reminded me of young, curled fiddlehead fern fronds. I went to work identifying these blooms the lazy way (aka Google Image Search). The results I received pointed me to the genus Amsinckia.

This genus is native to western North America and south-western South America, and are commonly called Fiddlenecks, due to the curled shape of their new flower infloresences. ​They are in the Boraginaceae family, making them relatives of Forget-Me-Nots and Borage. They, like Borage, are somewhat edible; Native Americans ate the leaves, shoots, and seeds. Before you go eating them, however, do keep in mind that they are bristly, and that their sharp hairs can be irritating to skin. I also have come across some information about seed and other toxicities in some species, as well, so make sure you do a boatload of research before stickin' anything in your mouth. The flowers of most species are yellow-orange, and the stems grow to reach between 8 and 50 inches tall. All species are annual, and there are twelve of them.

Flowers on the plants I found had five petals, were definitely more orange than yellow, and had darker orange marks toward the center of the bloom. Stems and flower buds were bristly but not overly so, and leaves had smooth margins and were slightly fuzzy. Each plant had a terminal inflorescence, with another close to the top, as in the photo above. Taller plants had other infloresences appearing at intervals going down the main stem. Leaves were lanceolate. I tried to use these clues to compare them to the remaining four species on the list:

I think it's safe to rule out Amsinckia vernicosa; the stems on the plants I found are clearly not pink or as thick as those in that species. Just on looks alone, it is most similar to Amsinckia menziesii, and since that species is the only one whose range map includes Amador County (the others only come close), that's another mark towards its positive identification. It may be a hybrid between A. menziesii and one of the two remaining species, as well. Not having an identification guide, I think it's as close as I'm going to get.

I'm so happy to have discovered a new species for my books, and have learned a lot about these plants along the way. Hopefully I'll be able to go back over to Amador soon, so I can take more pictures and do a little more investigating.

Until next time, 

Kristi

Mulch: the protective blanket of organic material that keeps soil moist, suppresses weed growth, and maintains healthy soil temperatures. Mulches come in a variety of materials and colors, and are available for purchase at garden centers and businesses that sell landscape materials in bulk. Because mulch is so important to soil (and therefore plant) health, it is critical to maintain a thick layer in planting beds throughout the garden in each season. Typically, mulch needs to be replaced once every one to two years, depending on factors like the level of traffic in mulched areas, water runoff, and climate (including wind). The best time to replace mulch is during your yearly application of compost to the soil, which should take place in February before new spring growth emerges for the season. To replace and refresh mulch, follow these general steps:

Walk around your garden, taking a good look at the mulch coverage in your planting beds. If you notice any bare spots, take note of about how large the bald spot is. At the end of your stroll, you should have a good idea of the square footage you'll need to re-cover with a fresh layer. If you don't already know the total square footage covered by mulch in your garden, this is a good time to calculate it. Start by taking approximate measurements of your beds' widths, lengths, and diameters. Check out the measurements below for an example.

Now that you've assessed the situation and taken some necessary measurements, it's time to calculate how much mulch you'll need. Begin by adding up the total square footage of your beds by multiplying their widths by their lengths. You'll need to convert inches to decimals (for example 4 feet 6 inches = 4.5 feet). Then, once you have your total square footage, multiply that integer by the desired depth of mulch in feet. For 1 inch, use the multiplier 0.083. For 2 inches, use the multiplier 0.167. For 3 inches, use the multiplier 0.25. Using the example garden above, this is what this process looks like:

The depth multiplier you'll use depends on how much your mulch has degraded. If you are mulching for the first time, a two or three inch layer of mulch is suggested. For yearly upkeep, one or two inches should suffice.

Now that you've figured out how many cubic feet of mulch you'll need, it's time to find a place to purchase your material. Most garden centers and even some big box stores like Target, Walmart and Costco will sell pre-bagged mulches. Bags are typically either sized in 2 or 3 cubic foot quantities. Regardless of the bag size, you'll need to calculate how many bags you'll need for your space to determine the price you'll pay for material. To do this, divide your calculated cubic footage by the volume of each bag. For example, if the store you visit has mulch in three square foot bags and you've decided to add 2 inches of mulch across the landscape, your equation will look like this:

If a large area of the garden needs to be covered, if you are applying mulch for the first time, or simply if the price is better for the amount of mulch you need, it may be more realistic to purchase your mulch from a bulk supplier. On average, these landscape material suppliers will charge between $25 and $80 per cubic yard of mulch. Most of these places charge by the cubic yard, so your cubic footage before shopping. There are 27 cubic feet in 1 cubic yard , so the number of cubic feet can either be divided by 27 or multiplied by 0.037037. Using the above example again:

Depending on which type of mulch is purchased, getting this much mulch from a bulk landscape material supplier can run between $50 and $160. Purchasing mulch by the bag from a garden center or other retailer may run between $95 and $150. Although the prices at the bulk seller may be a bit better, the mulch will not be bagged, and therefore will not be as easy to distribute around the yard, and will require a trailer or truck bed to transport. An upside, however is that these places also commonly sell compost, which can be purchased at the same time as mulch to cut down on trips back and forth to the store. A last point about using bulk sellers is that sometimes they will have a minimum purchase amount; to check, simply call ahead. 

If you are applying compost at the same time you are mulching, which is recommended, you'll pull your mulch layer back so that the soil surface is exposed. The compost will then be applied and distributed, and then mulch can be put back on. The old mulch should be mixed with the new before it is added back to the surface. Not all old mulch should be re-used, however. If mulch is diseased or overly moldy, it should be thrown away. Rake mulch to level., and then water it (and the compost) in. And there you have it: a simple way to refresh the health and aesthetic appeal of your garden in a days' work.

Happy Gardening!

Starting From Seed
A great option for working around the cooler temperatures of this time is to begin your vegetable gardening indoors by sowing seeds. There are many advantages to this technique, including:

• Cost savings. Seeds are much more inexpensive than nursery-started vegetable plants.
• Choice from a greater variety of vegetables. Many nurseries only carry certain types of vegetables for transplants, and many of the great heirloom varieties are not sold as plants, only as seeds.
• Flexibility of timing. Growing your own seedlings will allow you to perfectly plan out when your veggie garden can be planted out.
• Pest exclusion. Growing your seedlings indoors will ensure that they are not grazed by local wildlife or develop pest problems early on.

With all of these benefits, starting a vegetable garden from seed can seem like a wonderful idea. However, it is important to also consider cost and have a timeline hammered out before starting. The following pointers should help you to bring your plan together:

This type of soil mix will be great for starting seeds of plants like peppers and tomatoes. For other plants, like squashes and cucumbers, a standard potting soil can be used. Starting with a good soil for your seeds is essential. When seedlings are developing, they use massive amounts of energy, and therefore need great growing conditions to avoid developing growth issues or health problems. 

Container Choices
Seeds can be started in many types of settings, including in plastic or peat containers, in the ground, or in containers with other mature plants. The best growing situation for seedlings, however, is a sterile, controlled environment. Indoors, seeds are best started in seed flats, old food containers (with added drainage holes), or small nursery pots. Whatever container is chosen for starting seeds, it is important to ensure sterility and drainage. Sterilize old, re-used containers with a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water, and ensure that all containers have adequate drainage holes. To test drainage before planting seeds, fill the container with soil and then water it. Monitor how long it takes most of the water to drain out. If it is more than 10 minutes, more drainage holes should be added.

Seed Germination Heat Mat
This tool is not a necessary one, but will assist your seeds in getting a great head-start. Different species of seeds will have different germination temperature requirements. Some prefer cooler temperatures, others need sustained warmer temperatures (around 95 degrees Fahrenheit at the high end). Using a heat mat can ensure that the ideal temperature range is sustained throughout the seedlings' growth, and take a lot of the guesswork out of navigating seed-sowing.

When to Plant
Figuring out your sowing date (the day you'll plant your seeds for germination) involves counting back from when they'll be put out into the garden soil. In general, vegetables and herbs like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and basil can be started about 4-8 weeks prior and cucumber and squash can be started less than four weeks prior to installing them outside. If temperatures are a bit cooler (or you don't have the assistance of a heat mat), seedlings will take longer to sprout.

Care and Feeding
Once seeds are in their soil beds, keep the soil mixture moist but not wet. A complete liquid fertilizer can be applied to the soil if it is not already nutrient-rich. Mix it at half-strength as soon as the second set of true leaves appear on the seedlings. You'll want to continue to care for your seedlings indoors until they have grown their third or fourth set of true leaves. After these have sprouted, you can transfer your seedling outside (if the last frost of the year has passed). When the time comes, introduce your seedlings to the outdoor environment using a process called 'hardening off', or simply 'hardening'. This involves placing your seedlings in a shaded, outdoor environment for a few hours at a time each day, increasing their outdoor time over a few weeks by an hour every day or every few days. This will ensure that your plants don't get shocked when they are planted outdoors. The transition can be difficult, and many seedlings are lost because they just can't adapt quickly enough. 

​Although it gives plants a great head start to sow them indoors, there are some veggies that will perform well in the chill of February outside. As long as soil is not too cold or too wet (you'll want to choose the driest, sunniest part of your garden for this task), it can be used for planting. A good rule of thumb is to wait until the soil temperature has risen above 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds will sprout well under these conditions, and not become waterlogged or mold over. Good choices for crops to start in February out in the garden are:

Before planting, ensure that your soil has been adequately amended with compost or other organic material. It is also a good idea at this time to add some fertilizer to the soil that is rich in nitrogen, just to get things moving along. Plant your seeds at the depth and spacing specified on the seed packet. Then, your job will be to monitor and protect your seeds and seedlings. An outdoor environment is much more harsh than an indoor one, and plants have a harder time reaching maturity. Once seedlings emerge from the soil surface, protect them by covering them with a plastic gallon milk container or similar container with the bottom cut off. This will protect them from pests and other outdoor dangers while they mature. It is also a great idea to mulch the area around the seedlings to protect roots from extreme temperatures, increase soil moisture retention and manage weed growth.

Indoors or outdoors, February is a great month to kick off your vegetable garden to ensure a hefty harvest for the year.

Until next time, 
Kristi.

As the backbone of your garden, trees play an important role in the look, functioning, and biodiversity of the landscape. Adding trees to an outdoor space can improve soil health, help to prevent erosion, increase privacy, and add color and interest. Between the months of December and March is a great time to plant trees in the Bay Area, especially fruit trees. I've gotten many questions in the past from customers, clients, and friends and family concerning the specifics of selecting a nursery tree out of the many rows of specimens that seem to all look the same. In response, I've put together a short go-to guide for all of you that will fill you in on what you need to know. 

In choosing a specific tree for your landscape, there are a few important things to consider. The first is shopping at a nursery or other plant source that is compliant with federal and state laws and regulations. Our state, to protect both our economy and natural biodiversity, has enacted laws that affect the transport and sale of plants. To ensure that you are purchasing a tree that will be safe to plant in your garden, make sure you are purchasing from a reputable seller.
​

A second factor to consider when purchasing a nursery tree is going native. Native trees are those that are endemic to the Bay Area, and therefore have evolved to survive in our unique climate. These trees also tend to be more drought-tolerant, and will generally perform better and be more resilient than imported species. To do a search of native trees that will do well in your area, head over to the California Native Plant Society's Calscape website:

Once you've selected your nursery and species of tree, you can head down to your chosen seller and check out their inventory of trees for sale. As you settle on which specific tree or trees you'll bring home, pay close attention to the following:

Proper Identification
Ensure that the tree you are considering is labeled properly. Most nurseries have wonderful labeling systems and will put stickers on individual plants, others are not so thorough and some work may need to be done to locate a tree that is properly labeled. Be sure that you are buying the tree that you came to purchase. Also, when looking at the label, ensure that the size of the pot is listed, and that it is correct. There's no reason to pay the price for a 20-gallon tree when you're only getting a 5-gallon, just because of an incorrect label.

General Tree Health Markers
There are many markers to look for in a nursery tree that will increase the chances it will adapt well to your garden and live out a long, healthy life. Inspect nursery candidates for the following:

Crown Characteristics
​The crown of the tree should have a central leader, either the original one or a replacement that has established after a heading cut has been made. If the original leader has been headed, a new leader at least 1/2 the diameter of the original leader needs to be present. Check out the three photographs below for a visual representation of what you should be looking for.

Main Branch Characteristics
Main branches, also called scaffolds, should be distributed radially around the main trunk and vertically along the trunk, forming a somewhat symmetrical shape that is typical for the species. The following aspects of the main branching qualities of nursery trees should be examined:

Temporary branches should be present along the lower trunk (especially for younger trees less than 1.5 inches in trunk diameter). No temporary branches should exceed 3/8 inch in diameter. At this diameter, they should be pruned off.

The trunk diameter (measured about six inches above the soil surface) should be within the diameter range shown for each container size:

Root Characteristics
Main root system shall be free of circling or kinked roots. It may be necessary to carefully dig into the soil a bit to inspect the root system.​​ Check out the photographs below to see a reference for preferable and unacceptable root composition. The tree should also be rooted well into the potting medium it is in, and should not be pulled out of the soil mix easily.

The last thing to check on your chosen tree is the current moisture status of the soil. Nursery trees should be receiving water on a regular basis; their roots cannot move past the confines of their pot to find water, and if they are water-stressed, they could undergo a more dramatic shock period after they are installed in your garden, and may not make it. After you've completed this last check of your tree, you're ready to check out. Keep in mind that many nurseries will offer delivery services (either for free or for a charge) for larger trees or orders with a large number of plants. Make sure to get all of your delivery information squared away before leaving the nursery if you choose to go this route. 

Choosing a nursery tree is neither a quick nor an easy process, but being picky about your selection will ensure the health of your purchased tree and increase the chances that it will survive in its new home. For more information on planting your new tree, visit the Year in the Garden module of Kristi's Garden Club. 

Until next time, 
Kristi.
​

I'm glad I have your attention. because I'd like to tell you about something very cool that just happened at the University of Wisconsin at Madison. A team led by scientists at the university has officially produced a cutting-edge way to extract certain nutrients (most importantly, ammonium and potassium) from livestock manure to be used in applications like fertilizer and other chemical products.

Manure itself can be used as-is to fertilize the garden, but it has some drawbacks. First, it is expensive when compared with other commonly used fertilizing products. Adding to the gap in cost is the fact that manure also contains fewer nutrients than synthetic fertilizers, so it must be applied in larger quantities to support plant growth. Second, manure doesn't smell great to begin with and as it decomposes the odor somehow gets even worse. The strong smell can also attracts flies and hungry rodents, which are unwelcome visitors in most gardens. Third and finally, although manure is an organic fertilizer, it can be damaging to the environment, releasing ammonia, phosphorus, and potassium into groundwater and ammonium into the air. Airborne ammonia is smelly, and can cause breathing issues in sensitive people. In the ground, nutrient excesses can contaminate local water sources and if it flows into the ocean, can kill fish and cause damaging algal blooms.

The goal for this team was to find a way to extract the useful nutrients from manure that make it such a valuable fertilizer. The new technique was revealed to the scientific world less than a week ago in the journal Nature Sustainability, and already has caught the attention of many gardeners. The procedure described in the study involves directly placing a nickel-based electrode into manure wastewater, which then collects ammonium and potassium from the oxidized organic matter. The electrode is then placed in a device that uses electricity to release the ammonium and potassium from the electrode. The extracted nutrients can be used to create nitrogen or potassium-based fertilizers that are greener and more affordable to transport than manure.

A very cool discovery in and of itself, this breakthrough also has the potential to lower ammonia emissions by 50% and lessen nitrate leaching considerably from livestock farms. And in the long-run, maybe we'll have cheaper, more effective and greener ways to use manure as a fertilizing agent. It just goes to show, the trick to tackling climate change is to electrify everything. Even poop.

- Kristi

References:
Zapping Manure with Special Electrode Promises an Efficient Method to Produce Fertilizers, Other Chemicals

Earthworms: the hidden workhorses behind fertile soil and beautiful plants. While cruising the interwebs recently, I came across an article about some worms that I'd never heard of before: Japanese Jumping Worms. There are three species currently recognized that share this common name: Amynthas agrestis, Amynthas tokioensis, and Metophire hilgendorfi.  They are also called Crazy Snake Worms, Wood Eels, Alabama Jumpers, and Jersey Wrigglers. These worms are considered to be highly invasive; they can reproduce without mating, and their eggs are very difficult to see in soil. Their presence is not to be taken lightly, however. They are more voracious eaters than their European counterparts, decimating the layer of decomposing material that is necessary to support plant and animal life. They also feed on plant roots, which can kill garden and nursery plants.

Although these worms are relatively new to California, they have been found in pots and in the ground in the northern regions of the state, and will most likely find their way down to the Bay Area given some time. These invasive worms are worrying environmental scientists, because they pose a threat to forests and can harm biodiversity in gardens, nurseries, and parks. Below are some common questions about these wiggly pests:

How do I tell the difference between Japanese Jumping Worms and Nightcrawlers?
This is a great question, as these two worms look pretty similar. Nightcrawlers are lighter in color, and have a reddish-pink band (called a clitellum) that sits like a raised saddle on their bodies. The clitellum on jumping worms is lighter in color (whitish), surrounds their bodies completely, is flush with the rest of the body, and their bodies are darker in color. Reference the photos below for a visual comparison of these two worms:

These worms also differ in their habits. When picked up, earthworms will attempt to get back to the ground, but are slow-moving. Japanese Jumping Worms, on the other hand, act almost like snakes do, writhing quickly and making 'jumping' movements.

Will I be able to tell if there are Jumping Worms in my garden?
Jumping Worms can be found in the surface soil or just below - higher in the soil profile than Nightcrawlers. They mass together, and because they reproduce so quickly and in such great numbers, you'll be able to identify them visually if you come across a colony. A neat trick to perform is to pour mustard water (mix a gallon of water with 1/3 cup of ground yellow mustard and shake) over your garden soil in a few areas. The worms will come to the surface, and you can collect them and see if they are indeed Jumping Worms. You'll also be able to witness their behavior and differentiate it from that of regular earthworms. These worms are most active during the summertime, in mid-June these worms will be entering their first season of maturity. This is when you'll be most likely to notice their presence. Another sign that these pests may have invaded your space is that the soil texture will be similar to coffee grounds.

​How do I get rid of these pests?
​If you find Jumping Worms in your soil, don't panic. Your first step is going to be to educate yourself about these critters, and let others around you know that you've located some in your garden. Next, you may want to dig up the colony of worms and the surrounding soil to remove both the worms themselves and their eggs. Place the removed worms and soil in a black plastic bag and leave it out in the sun. This will kill both adult and cocooned worms. You can toss the bag in the trash afterwards. Make sure to clean off any tools and gear you use when working in your garden frequently and thoroughly, as the tiny eggs can be spread on trowels, shovels, shears, and even gardening shoes and clothing. A final step in ridding your space of Jumping Worms is to heat moistened soil to a temperature of 104 degrees Fahrenheit. This will kill any cocoons in the soil, wiping out the next generation of worms. This task can be accomplished by spreading clear polyethylene over the area and allowing the sun to act as a heat source. Leave the plastic out for 2-3 weeks; in this time the soil should reach the target temperature.

What are some best practices to ensure that I don't inadvertently bring these worms into my garden?

1. When purchasing dirt or compost, ensure that it has been heated to a temperature of at least 130 degrees Fahrenheit for at least three days. This is a preventative measure to stop the spread of many garden pests that many reputable producers will perform. 
2. Clean your garden tools and gear regularly to stop the spread of these worms in your own garden.
3. Only bring potted plants in to your garden that have come from reputable nurseries. Sharing plants with other home gardeners can be risky, as most home gardeners do not go to the same lengths to ensure their product is pest-free.
4. If you have a gardening service taking care of your property, talk to them to see what their practices are for cleaning their equipment and gear. If you are not satisfied, have a collection of tools and other gear available for them to use on your property that you are responsible for cleaning and maintaining.
5. Contact the California Department of Fish and Wildlife to report your sighting. The required documentation and further instructions can be found on this webpage:

The invasive Jumping Worms are in California now, and are working their way down the state. Keep an eye out for these destructive garden critters, remove them from your soil and destroy them, and report your sighting(s). If we garden responsibly, we may just be able to slow the spread of these pests (and others) in our state. As always, thanks for reading! See the references section below for more information on these worms.

Until next time!

​Kristi.

Also called Floriography, the language of flowers is, simply put, communication through the use of flowers or arrangements of flowers. Floriography has a long history, with roots found in many cultures around the world. This communication technique gained popularity in the Victorian Era, when certain romantic gestures couldn't be said aloud. Bouquets of flowers were used instead to send these messages of interest. These flowers were also used as fashion accessories; nosegays (also called tussie-mussies, talking bouquets and posys) were carried around by both men and women, a sign that they were giving or had received a romantic message. There were subtleties in the language, including which flowers were used, how many there were, how they were bound, and even whether they were given or received with the right or left hand.

The full list is included in the publication linked below, available through the Biodiversity Heritage Library. Much of the book is comprised of writings about flowers; the flowers and their corresponding sentiments are listed starting on page 265 (or page 245, if you're going by the book's page numbers) Have fun reading poetry and perusing; I know I did!
​

Until next time!

​- Kristi

The first day of spring was last Monday (March 20th, just in case anybody missed it like I did), and flowers of all kinds are beginning to blossom. My mom's garden is filled with her new buds and flowers, most notably on her Crabapple trees! These are exciting times, really. This is also the time of year when wildflowers are going to start popping up everywhere. I've been noticing poppies along 680 on my drives to the lake, and it's gotten me pretty excited for the months to come.

​It's a great time of the year to start getting outside again, and to kick it off, organizations like the Peninsula Open Space Trust are suggesting hikes and nature walks in the area. I was excited to see their advertisement this morning for their multitude of hiking trails in the Peninsula and South Bay, on which you can view the show of wildflowers that is about to come. I'm planning on trying to hit all of the trails in the next month or so, and I hope many of you do the same! To access their list of trails, including which wildflowers are found along which trails, follow the link below! 

​Until next time, 

​- Kristi

The Jack-o-Lantern is one of the bastions of the Halloween season. Carving pumpkins is a part of many families' traditions around this holiday, and the practice has its roots in Irish folklore. The story begins with a man nicknamed Stingy Jack. He was given the moniker due to his reluctance to pay for a drink, which he convinced the Devil to foot the bill for. He invited the Devil to have a drink with him, and convinced the Devil to turn into coin that could be used to pay their tab. Once the Devil transformed, Jack decided to keep the money and put it into his pocket next to a silver cross he carried. This proximity to the cross prevented the Devil from changing back into its original form. 

Soon after this encounter, Jack died. Because of Jack's previous transgressions, he was not allowed entry into heaven. Jack was also not allowed into hell; the Devil was upset by all of the tricks Jack had played on him, and kept his word that he would not claim his soul. Jack was sent off into the dark night with only a burning coal to light his way through his purgatory. Jack placed the piece of coal into a carved out turnip, and as the legend goes, has been carrying it around with him as he aimlessly roams the earth. The ghostly figure that was once Stingy Jack was renamed Jack of the Lantern, which after some time was shortened to Jack O'Lantern. 

Immigrants from England, Ireland, and Scotland that came to the United States in the 1830's brought with them this practice, and changed the American pumpkin-carving tradition at this time of the year to one uniquely associated with the Halloween holiday. Nowadays, Jack O'Lanterns are typically carved from round, orange pumpkins and are set out on doorsteps and placed in displays for the season. The most commonly used pumpkins for carving are Connecticut Field Pumpkins, which are known as the original commercial Jack O'Lantern pumpkin.

The Halloween season is marked around the Bay Area with the opening of various pumpkin patches. One of the best ways to find one in your area is to get on Yelp and check out their map.

Now that you've got a place to get your pumpkin and a story to tell the kids while you're carving, you're all set for the holiday! 

Happy carving.

As you all are aware, it was Mother's Day this past Sunday! Unfortunately for me, my mom was out of town, but I still celebrated by taking myself to the famous San Jose Municipal Rose Garden, and did I have a great time! This is such a  beautiful time of the year to visit the rose garden. The blooms are fantastic, and you can take pretty, Instagram-worthy pictures of the rolling waves of roses laid out in front of you.

The San Jose Municipal Rose Garden is a 5 1/2-acre open space in the middle of the Rose Garden neighborhood in San Jose, set aside by the city at the request of the Santa Clara County Rose Society in 1927. The garden features many different varieties and colors of roses, a large reflection fountain, and plenty of space for picnics. For all of you rose-nerds out there, about 75% of the plants are hybrid-teas with a single high-centered bloom per stem, but the garden also features grandifloras, floribundas (my personal favorite), miniature roses, climbing roses, and polyanthas. 

I've included some of my pictures below; you'll feel like you were there with me! 

I hope you enjoyed my photos; until next time!

This is one of the best recipes I've discovered so far on my journey to become a better cook! These fantastic tasting shrimp are great for appetizers, to bring to dinner parties, or to have as a meal all on their own. And the bonus is, they're so quick and easy to make that everyone will be wowed when you whip them up on the fly. I really hope you'll all try this one. This recipe makes two servings of shrimp, and is fantastic when served with sliced french bread to soak up all that yummy sauce! 

1. Prep your ingredients! This step is key, as once everything is ready to go this recipe takes just a few minutes to prepare. 
   1. If you're starting with frozen shrimp, your first task will be to defrost them. This can be accomplished by putting your shrimp in a bowl of cool water, covering and letting it sit for 10 minutes. Dump the water out and test your shrimp. If they are not defrosted completely, repeat the process. Continue until your shrimp are defrosted. For me, this process usually takes about a half hour. 
   2. Peel and devein your shrimp.
   3. Pat shrimp dry, toss into a bowl and season with Kosher salt to taste and the smoked paprika. 
   4. Rinse, pat dry, and chop your parsley. 
   5. Peel and slice your garlic cloves. 
   6. Measure out your sherry wine and set aside.
   7. Measure out your EVOO.
2. Set a pan over Medium heat on your stovetop, then add the sliced garlic and EVOO to the pan. 
3. Cook the garlic in the oil over medium heat until it just starts to turn golden. The goal is to get the garlic to soften without adding too much color. 
4. Add your shrimp to the pan and turn the heat up to High. Stir the shrimp constantly for two minutes over high heat. At the end of two minutes, they should be starting to curl up nicely, but still not be completely cooked through. 
5. Add your sherry, and continue to stir constantly for another minute, until the sauce boils and the shrimp is cooked through.
6. Remove the pan from the heat, and add most of the parsley in. Stir to combine.
7. Split your shrimp in two, and serve over toasted sliced French bread (optional, but it's so good you're going to want to try it at least once!). Top with parsley. I also like to add a baby shake of cayenne over the top for a little spice!

I really hope you guys try this recipe. It's such a great summer dish, and so very tasty! 

I heard on the radio last week that the Bay Area is 'due for a big quake'. While I am wary to declare a full-out state of emergency in light of this news story, it did pique my interest in learning more about where fault lines and liquefaction zones are in the Bay Area. Luckily, the California Geological Survey just published a new interactive map of liquefaction zones for me to check out: 

While my home does not fall in the dark green liquefaction zones outlined in the left map above, there are many areas in San Jose and the greater Santa Clara County that do! Knowing where fault lines and liquefaction zones are is important in searching for homes; additional insurances may need to be purchased and the knowledge of fault lines and earthquake zones needs to be disclosed during the selling process. Knowing where fault lines are also can increase your preparedness for a quake when it does happen. Below, I've listed some great resources for residents of the South Bay Area who are curious about earthquakes:

CGS Fault Activity Map of California
CGS Earthquake Zones of Required Investigation
​Earthquakes: Ready.gov
California Geological Survey Resources and Information 

Until next time, enjoy the ride!

If you have stone fruit trees, you're going to want to pay close attention to this post. Plum Bud Gall Mite has been discovered in Santa Clara County. For those of you unfamiliar with this pest, here's the low-down:

• They are very small (microscopically small). Typically, they are 0.15mm long or less, and are very difficult to see without a magnifying glass. 
• Because of their size, they are difficult to identify before they have started to cause damage to your trees. 
• They are primarily found in the Middle East and Europe. 
• They feed predominately on Almond, Apricot, Peach and Plum trees. 
• The injury they cause to trees can vary, depending on how bad the infestation is and the health of the tree prior to their arrival. They have led to weakened trees, decreased fruit yield, and death. Some trees also recover, and other trees are resistant to this particular mite. ​

You also have a few options available for getting rid of these mites. To learn more, consult the link below:
University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources

You can also check out this Plum Bud Gall Mite fact sheet: 

I have a morning routine that includes making the bed, drinking my coffee, feeding my pets, and then walking around the yard and looking at all of my plants. As many of you know, I'm a big fan of gardening. I was just starting my walk around the yard this morning when I noticed scale on my maple tree! For those of you who aren't familiar with scale, here's what they look like (the black-and-white bumps on the branch): 

Overall, it wasn't a great way to start my morning. I love my maple tree; it's the only tree still standing on my property from when we purchased it (the other two mature trees died during the drought a few years ago). The bottom line is that I will not lose this tree. Consider this post a declaration of war on scale. And it's going to be a messy one. 

Scale is, although it may not look like it, an insect. When they are young, they are mobile. They find a tree to infest, and then settle down and create little 'scales' (so named because someone thought they looked like individual scales on a fish). The immobile scales are female; they will slowly become concave over time as their insides fill with eggs. They turn brown and die just before the eggs hatch, at which point tiny insects will migrate up the tree and to neighboring plants to start the cycle again. 

Unfortunately, these little buggers are all over my tree, so if I don't create a treatment plan soon, they could potentially do a lot of damage. They feed on the sap in a tree, and create something called 'honeydew' as a byproduct; ants feed on this honeydew. This should have been my first clue: a fast-moving trail of excited-looking ants moving up the tree trunk. I blew it off as ants being ants. Little did I know, they were alerting me to a potential problem! 

Scale can eventually kill their host tree. The honeydew they produce attracts mold, which can cover the tree branches and leaves and create photosynthesizing problems. The now injured tree is susceptible to other issues and can die as a result. ​

After some online research, I discovered that the specific type of scale I have is Calico Scale, or Eulecanium cerasorum. I broke open one of the scales, as well, so you all can see the eggs growing inside:

Resources:
The Tree Geek
UCANR Master Gardener

This recipe is a great, light dinner with tons of flavor and Spanish influences.
​

* Note: You can use any flaky, white fish for this recipe.

I love this recipe because it's simple, beautiful to look at, so yummy, and it makes you look like a fantastic chef to dinner guests! It also gives you a great excuse to have a glass of white wine. So, try it out and let me know how it goes in the comments below.

Until Next Time!

As summer really begins to ramp up and we get warmer weather, we'll start spending more time outside - but we'll be accompanied by a pest that nobody enjoys: Mosquitoes! I don't know about anyone else, but those little guys love me. If I go to an outdoor party, I come home looking like a kid with a bad case of the Chicken Pox. Another group of fun  critters to be aware of during this time are Ticks, especially if you have children or animals that play outside a lot in the summer months. The upside is, there are things we can all do to limit the availability of nesting grounds for these bugs and protect our families from bites.

In Santa Clara County, the group who deals most with these bugs is the Vector Control District. They are strongly urging the public to be aware of these pests, and to be diligent in maintaining their yards to lower mosquito and tick population numbers:

How To Reduce Mosquito Populations
First, take a look around your front and back yards. Do you have any areas where there is standing water? Don't just look on the ground - mosquitoes can breed in any sort of container with standing water, like watering cans, buckets, cups, and ponds. Having standing water on your property increases the likelihood that you'll have a mosquito problem in your yard. And remember, mosquitoes can carry West Nile Virus! So what can you do?

Check outdoor kiddie pools, toys, containers, buckets, planter bases, trashcans, rain gutters, old tires, and leaky faucets or hoses for standing water. If you find any, pour it out! Mosquitoes only require a quarter of an inch of water for about a week to breed, so even a little water can be a potential problem!

You can also reduce your personal risk of being a mosquito's next meal by wearing long-sleeved shirts when outside at dawn and dusk, using bug repellent, and by checking window and door screens for tears that could let bugs into the house.

How to Reduce Tick Populations

Ticks are those pesky little spidery-looking bugs that can crawl onto you during your outdoor adventures. They are common in wilderness areas, but can also be present in yards. Juvenile ticks are most active and numerous in the summer months, and are known to spread Lyme Disease. Ticks can be avoided by wearing long pants and sleeves, spraying bug repellent, and by checking yourself, your children and your pets for ticks after being outside. Ticks can be picked up anywhere, but are most abundant in grasses, in leaf litter and on logs and rocks in the foothills and mountains. 

A Little About Birds

Birds can be carriers of West Nile Virus. To be safe, make sure to keep pets and children away from dead birds, and make a phone call if you see a group of dead birds around an area. This could be a sign that the birds were sick with a disease. Do not touch the birds, just simply call California's West Nile Virus Hotline, at 1 (877) WNV-BIRD (1-877-968-2473) or visit their website for more information at www.westnile.ca.gov . 

Reporting
To report standing water, unkempt pools, standing water in gutters, or if you notice any areas where mosquitoes are abundant, call the Vector Control District at 1 (408) 918-4770, or go to their website www.sccvector.org and report it through the online form, which can also be accessed by clicking the button below:

​Armed with the above information, you can make a difference in lessening the mosquito populations in the area, reduce your risk of coming home with an unwanted new friend, and keep our county disease-free!

You know the drill. Every year you spend wintertime dreaming of brightly colored flowers and leaves on those naked trees in your yard, and when you start to see the first few buds beginning to emerge, you start thinking about your yard and how this year will be the year. Your yard will be the envy of all your neighbors. You will host garden parties straight out of Better Homes and Gardens magazine. And most importantly, you'll have a beautiful place to relax away from the hustle bustle of life. Unfortunately, creating this reality is more difficult and more time-consuming than you plan for, and the final result falls short of your goal. So how can you do it better this year? Hopefully you can glean some insights from this post.

In following these steps and investing the time and energy necessary, you can transform your yard into a colorful, living work of art! So here we go:

Next, you're going to want to tend to your lawn. Over the winter, it may have gotten waterlogged and the dirt may have become compacted. A great tool to have on hand is an aerator, or you can hire someone to aerate your lawn for you. Aerating your lawn helps to make the soil less compacted, allows water and nutrients to reach deeper, and is especially helpful in high-traffic areas. It is a must if you want a lush, deep green lawn in the spring and summer months. To aerate your lawn, first moisten the soil, either by running your sprinklers for a few minutes or by going over it with a hose. Let the water seep into the soil, and then start aerating. After you've finished, you can add some fertilizer, weed and feed, or even more grass seeds to fill in bare spots. Don't overlook caring for your lawn! A great lawn can really compliment the rest of your garden.

Your next step should be to walk around your yard with your garden shears, moving systematically so as not to miss anything. Identify branches, flowers, and leaves/grasses that have died off, and remove them from the plant. This will encourage new growth. If you have grasses, they can usually be cut all the way back to the ground at this time, and will pop up in the spring, rejuvenated and strong. Removing dead and diseased plant matter from your yard will immediately improve the way it looks, as well as encourage your plants to put on new growth faster!

Finally, the fun part! Look at your yard, and figure out what projects you'd like to tackle this year. Take walks around your neighborhood and get inspiration for the types of plants you'd like to add. Whether you have just a strip to redo, or a whole 500 square feet, you can work towards making your yard just a little more picturesque. For example, my big project this year includes redoing the entire back half of my property! Start getting excited for spring, but remember, it's still early, and there may still be a few frosts coming. Putting in new plants should be put off until after the last frost of the season. And as always, plan before you plant! Make sure to choose the correct plants for your soil type, the area of your yard, and the temperature range of your microclimate.

Starting with these few tasks in your garden can give you a great head start in creating the yard of your dreams this spring and summer!

One thing you need to know about me is that I absolutely love gardening. My first apartment, although it was small, had a patio with a strip of dirt three feet wide and about twelve feet long. There were already two trees planted in the strip, and the first thing I did after I moved in was to plant ferns and put down some blue rock. It made such a difference, and although the apartment wasn't in a great area and there was street traffic and it leaked, etc. etc., I loved it because I had my little garden. Since then, I have moved into a house and now have a big yard to play with.

My love of gardening drew me to Filoli Gardens time and time again, and when I saw that there was a class offered called 'A Year In The Garden' I jumped at the opportunity. My mom loves to garden as well (she has an even bigger yard than I do) so we signed up together. I ended up loving the class and learned a lot about the biology of the garden, how plants really grow, why some plants die for no apparent reason, and so many other great lessons. After the class ended, I continued to read and do my own research, adding plants to my yard and even consulting with friends and family if they had gardening questions.

I've taken the next step and created my own gardening 'course'! It's very loosely based on the topics covered in my Filoli class, but with a lot more information, supplemental videos and diagrams, and my own little touches throughout. I have never made it public; I was playing with the idea of possibly hosting my own gardening class out of my backyard, but this course is well-adapted for long-distance and internet users, so I've now added it to this website! You can check out the course here:

If you've got a green thumb as well, it's worth checking out. And if you're a gardening novice and would like to improve your plants' livelihood, it's a must! It can be done at any pace, so feel free to browse through the topics and choose the ones you like. I hope you all enjoy it.